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The search that I found were all with aftermarket suspension parts.
My 04 G35 coupe's suspension is complete stock/OEM, no aftermarket parts were swapped out. Not lowered at all.
Can I just go to the alignment shop and have them adjust all my camber to be at 0 to none negative camber? Keeping my car going straight as possible.
My goal is to make my tires last as long as possible and allowing the most contact area of my tires to the ground.
I don't do any autocross, drifting, or track, so I don't need the extra camber and toe which can shorten the life of the tires.
The OEM front upper control arms have no adjustment for camber, what you see is what you get and they can only adjust TOE via the tie rod ends.
The rear suspension has ecentric bolts for both camber and toe.
Make sure you have them set front toe to the MAXIMUM listed value (0.04 toe in per side, total of 0.08 toe) there was a TSB that isn't part of the FSM stating this is to keep tire feathering to a minimum (highway driving causes +toe therefor the preferred setting on a rack is negative toe so it straightens out while at speed). Personally I wouldn't have them run anything less than -0.5 degrees camber in the rear because it starts affecting the understeer/oversteer of the vehicle and as it sits stock it's very predictable the way it turns into a corner. While this might not be a factor for dry weather since you aren't pushing the vehicle it might be something you notice in the rain.
Camber just determines the angle the tires wear at (and they will wear evenly across that angle), toe is the tire killer so get that as close to the preferred setting as possible.
If you do decide you want less frontal camber, or if it's not very even from between the two sides, it's VERY easy to install camber arms on this car.
The OEM front upper control arms have no adjustment for camber, what you see is what you get and they can only adjust TOE via the tie rod ends.
The rear suspension has ecentric bolts for both camber and toe.
Make sure you have them set front toe to the MAXIMUM listed value (0.04 toe in per side, total of 0.08 toe) there was a TSB that isn't part of the FSM stating this is to keep tire feathering to a minimum (highway driving causes +toe therefor the preferred setting on a rack is negative toe so it straightens out while at speed). Personally I wouldn't have them run anything less than -0.5 degrees camber in the rear because it starts affecting the understeer/oversteer of the vehicle and as it sits stock it's very predictable the way it turns into a corner. While this might not be a factor for dry weather since you aren't pushing the vehicle it might be something you notice in the rain.
Camber just determines the angle the tires wear at (and they will wear evenly across that angle), toe is the tire killer so get that as close to the preferred setting as possible.
If you do decide you want less frontal camber, or if it's not very even from between the two sides, it's VERY easy to install camber arms on this car.
OK, correct me if I am wrong.
For the front I need the driver side 0.04 and passenger side 0.04 toe
For the rear camber 0.0 to -0.05 is ideal for even tire contact
What about the rear toe settings?
If the front eccentric (camber) bolts don't get it done you'll have to buy adjustable arms.
Interesting....I didn't know the front had eccentric camber bolts? So the front has slight adjustments for camber is that right? or do I have to buy aftermarket eccentric camber bolts for the front?
I've fiddled around with the alignment a bit lately, I was running -1.5 degree camber front and rear but now I have -1 degree front -.75 degree rear and it feels a little better to me, hooks up better coming out of a corner. Obviously you won't have the front adjustment because they are solid upper control arms (I can take pics if you want I have them sitting in a box still) but the aftermarket ones the outer ball joint is connected with a threaded rod just like you would expect from a tie-rod end and thus adjustable.
The only adjustment you can make is to rear camber and toe, the factory rear has more camber than the front if adjusted to nominal measurements but honestly I think it feels better with less camber.
Here's what I'm currently sitting at, keep in mind I just switched springs again, I wanted something a tad less stiff than the Nismo S-tune springs so I went back to my old revised 350Z springs (pink dot front, 2red 1purple dot rear) therefor I'm sitting 1/2" lower than stock coupe measurements.
EDIT: It feels very sporty yet driveable with this setup and tire wear will be minimal.
You'll know when they have it on the rack, front camber is what it is and is non-adjustable, front toe is FULLY adjustable so make sure they get it within 0.01. Rear camber and toe are adjustable within +/- 1 degree so as long as there aren't bent components they should be able to get it within FACTORY NOMINAL spec you may not be able to get rear camber to 0.75 degree because that's on the far edge of factory spec and it still has the stock ecentric bolts installed but the biggest thing with camber is to make sure it's the SAME on the left and right sides. Rear toe is more important than rear camber so they should probably max the toe bolts (same reading value on each side) then adjust the camber afterwards and get it to a value you're happy with.
It makes more sense if you crawl under the rear and actually look at the lower spring bucket toe bolt, the camber arm in front of it (and ecentric bolt) and visualize for youself the effect each will have on the rear hub.
You'll know when they have it on the rack, front camber is what it is and is non-adjustable, front toe is FULLY adjustable so make sure they get it within 0.01. Rear camber and toe are adjustable within +/- 1 degree so as long as there aren't bent components they should be able to get it within FACTORY NOMINAL spec you may not be able to get rear camber to 0.75 degree because that's on the far edge of factory spec and it still has the stock ecentric bolts installed but the biggest thing with camber is to make sure it's the SAME on the left and right sides. Rear toe is more important than rear camber so they should probably max the toe bolts (same reading value on each side) then adjust the camber afterwards and get it to a value you're happy with.
It makes more sense if you crawl under the rear and actually look at the lower spring bucket toe bolt, the camber arm in front of it (and ecentric bolt) and visualize for youself the effect each will have on the rear hub.
Awesome info!
Greatly appreciate you help. I will update after bring her to the alignment shop.
Thanks.
03-26-2018, 02:29 PM
