HERE'S A STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO INSTALLING THE ARIZONAZCAR.COM 350Z / G35 FRONT BRAKE KIT


JACK UP THE CAR AND SUPPORT IT SECURELY
WITH SAFETY STANDS

HERE'S THE STOCK BRAKES READY FOR E-BAY



UNBOLT THE CALIPER AND THE BRACKETS THAT
HOLD THE BRAKE LINES, KEEP THE BRAKE LINES CONNECTED AT THIS TIME TO KEEP THE FLUID FROM MAKING A MESS.


REMOVE THE ROTOR.



THE OLD BACKING PLATE IS NO LONGER NEEDED.
REMOVE THE 4 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE HUB IN PLACE,
REMOVE THE HUB AND BACKING PLATE AND RE-INSTALL THE HUB




INSTALL THE BRACKET AS EXACTLY AS SHOWN BELOW WITH THE SUPPLIED
HARDWARE.


YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE SPINDLE FROM THE CAR, I ONLY DID TO GET SOME BETTER PICS.


EXTRA SHIM WASHERS ARE INCLUDED TO ALLOW CENTERING OF THE CALIPER TO THE ROTOR IF NEEDED, THEY GO BETWEEN THE BRACKET AND THE SPINDLE



PLACE THE ROTOR INTO POSITION AND RETAIN IT TEMPORARILY WITH 1 OR 2 LUG NUTS.
NOTE: THE ROTORS AND CALIPERS ARE DIRECTIONAL, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE LEFT ONES ON THE LEFT SIDE ETC. LOOK FOR THE ARROWS OR (L&R) MARKS.



INSTALL THE FITTING INTO THE CALIPER, I USE A
LAYER OR 2 OF TEFLON TAPE TO SEAL THE THREADS.



MOUNT THE CALIPER TO THE BRACKET WITH THE SUPPLIED BOLTS, LOCK
WASHERS AND FLAT WASHERS. NOW DISCONNECT THE OLD
BRAKE LINE FROM THE CHASSIS AND INSTALL THE NEW BRAIDED LINE FROM THE CALIPER TO THE CHASSIS. (use proper flare-nut wrenches to avoid damaging the brake line nuts and fittings)



DO A THOROUGH JOB OF
BLEEDING AND CHECK FOR ANY INTERFERENCE BETWEEN ANY OF THE BRAKE
AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS AND TAKE CORRECTIVE ACTION AS NECESSARY.
IF ANY PULSATION IS FELT HAVE THE ROTOR ASSEMBLIES TURNED ON A BRAKE
LATHE TO TRUE
THEM UP..... I USUALLY BREAK THEM IN AND THEN HAVE THEM TURNED AFTER THEY'VE BEEN HEAT CYCLED.





READY FOR THE TRACK !
HOPE THIS WAS HELPFULL

Dave
ARIZONA Z CAR
2043 E. QUARTZ ST.
MESA AZ 85213

480-844-9677
dave@arizonazcar.com
www.arizonazcar.com

 

Dave,

This is great stuff! Excuse my ignorance but does the ABS system work properly with the Wilwoods?

 

wow great work and pics..........looks sooooooo sick

 

nice!

 

I would like to know about the turning of a slotted rotor. I never run into anyone who could do it.

 

Call around, you could probably call machine shops directly and cut out the brake shop middle man. The brake shop I used to use couldn't do them but sent them out.

 

The ABS system is unaffected , the ABS sensors are built into the hubs and not the rotors or calipers, whole setup has no issues on my car, the pedal effort, grip etc. is just right.
Dave

 

Your kit is just the 13" and not the 13.6" version like Fastbrakes.com has?

 

Yes arizona z car's kit is 13.06 whereas the fastbreaks kit is 13.6. You can tell the difference in both rotors and hats. Just by looking at the pictures the AZZ car kit looks to be much more quality than fastbreaks. The hats don't look as solid, at least that's my take. Even though the rotor for the fast break kit is 13.6 overall diameter, the actual braking face of it doesn't seem to be that much bigger than our stock breaks, just something that stuck out to me, or maybe its the picture angle. It's your money, so your choice on where to spend it.

 

ArizonaZcar, is the caliper available in silver? Thanks.

 

ARIZONAZCAR.COM 350Z / G35 REAR BRAKE KIT INSTALLATION
WHEN YOU JACK UP THE CAR ALWAYS SUPPORT IT SECURELY WITH SAFETY STANDS.
HERE'S THE STOCK BRAKES READY FOR E-BAY

UNBOLT THE CALIPER , KEEP THE BRAKE LINES CONNECTED AT THIS TIME TO KEEP THE FLUID FROM MAKING A MESS.

REMOVE THE ROTOR.
REMOVE THE COTTER PIN AND THE 32mm NUT THAT RETAINS THE HALF-SHAFT.


THE OLD BACKING PLATE IN NO LONGER NEEDED.
REMOVE THE 4 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE HUB IN PLACE, ( THIS IS MUCH EASIER TO
DO WITH THE HALF-SHAFT OUT OF THE WAY )
REMOVE THE HUB , DISCONNECT THE PARKING BRAKE CABLE AND REMOVE THE BACKING PLATE (2 MORE NUTS AND A BOLT)



RE-INSTALL THE HUB
ALONG WITH THE NEW BRACKET AS SHOWN USING THE SUPPLIED BOLTS, LOCKWASHERS, AND FLATWASHERS.
NOTE: THERE ARE RIGHT AND LEFT HAND BRACKETS


NOW'S A GOOD TIME TO REINSTALL THE HALF-SHAFT, NUT AND COTTER PIN (ALWAYS US A NEW COTTER PIN)


USE SOME BRAKE CLEANER AND DEGREASE THE ROTOR.
PLACE THE ROTOR INTO POSITION AND RETAIN IT TEMPORARILY WITH 1 OR 2 LUG NUTS.




INSTALL THE FITTING FOR THE SUPPLIED SS BRAKELINE INTO THE CALIPER, I USE A LAYER OR 2 OF TEFLON TAPE TO SEAL THE THREADS.

MOUNT THE CALIPER TO THE BRACKET WITH THE SUPPLIED BOLTS, LOCK WASHERS AND FLAT WASHERS.
NOTE: EXTRA FLAT WASHERS ARE INCLUDED TO CENTER THE CALIPER ON THE ROTOR IF NECESSARY, THEY CAN GO IN BETWEEN THE CALIPER AND THE BRACKET.
IF NOT NEEDED PUT THEM UNDER THE OTHER FLATWASHERS ANYHOW TO KEEP THE BOLTS FROM GOING THROUGH THE BRACKET TOO FAR.

NOW DISCONNECT THE OLD BRAKE LINE FROM THE CHASSIS AND INSTALL THE NEW BRAIDED LINE FROM THE CALIPER TO THE CHASSIS. (use proper flare-nut wrenches to avoid damaging the brake line nuts and fittings)
DO A THOROUGH JOB OF BLEEDING : (JUST THE TOP 2 BLEEDERS NOT THE BOTTOM ONES) USE NAME BRAND HIGH TEMPERATURE FLUID (NOT SILICONE) .

CHECK FOR INTERFERENCE BETWEEN ANY OF THE COMPONENTS AND TAKE CORRECTIVE ACTION AS NECESSARY.


NOW WE'RE READY FOR SOME SERIOUS G'S !

As you can see it's not too big a job for a well equipped amateur.
Dave

ARIZONA Z CAR
2043 E. QUARTZ ST.
MESA AZ 85213

480-844-9677
dave@arizonazcar.com
www.arizonazcar.com

 

Dave,

Good info, but why is the rear rotor hat black while the front is red? Parking break? Why is your caliper mounted in a different position from the OEM caliper? Group Buy?

 

Thanks for the write up. Gives me a little more confidence to do this myself.

 

Rear hat Is black 'cause that's all I had on the shelf that day
Normally it would be red to match the fronts.
Caliper is clocked different to allow more room and not have to grind or
modify stock mounting ears, also looks good when you see it with the fronts.
Check out rotor with custom "bling factor" slots we did.
I'll talk about the parking brake in another post.
Dave