Hello all,

I am thinking of selling my G35 with a turbo kit installed. The turbo install took a bit but I finished it up. The thing is I don't have as much time as I would like to keep investing in it. Its an 06 6MT with the turbonetics kit and all supporting mods including tune with UpRev. It does have an oil leak coming from somewhere in the top rear end of the motor and I have yet to figure out. Other than that it is drivable and runs fine. It has about 140k miles and is white with tan leather interior. If I were to sell, at what price point should I list it? Or should I get the oil leak fixed and keep it? I am not looking forward to pulling the motor to identify the problem. Especially now that its about to get cold. Any help is appreciated!

 

Get an inspection mirror and a flashlight, it's probably the back of the valve cover. You might get lucky and end up only replacing a cam sensor o-ring though.

As for price that's HIGHLY subjective and winter time is a terrible time to be selling a sports car unless you live in a moderate climate like Florida. In my area if it's very well maintained with no excess wear on the interior, no torn seats, no smoke holes in the head liner/tint. Well maintained exterior with no peeling clearcoat, no dents, and the chips are filled. A premium package turbo would fetch about 11k to 13k here.

If it's pretty worn on the inside/outside it would go as low as 6k.

What year, what package, what condition, what location are you trying to sell.

 

it’s an 06 coupe 6MT in good condition inside and out. And it’s the turbonetics single turbo kit on it. I’m in VA

 

If it has the premium package and RAS it will definitely fetch the high end. Rev-up with RAS is pretty rare.

 

Yea I don't have RAS, but I am looking at rebuilding the motor with forged internals and driving it for a while before I sell it. Who knows, if the right buyer comes along before I start I will consider selling beforehand,

 

Oh man. . .. that is my dream car.

In California, I am looking at spending nearly that much WITHOUT the kit. A little oil leak (Valve Cover, Cam Seal, Catch Can port, whatever...) does not scare me a bit. Easy enough to fix, likely easier than the original turbo install. It can be maintained until such time as the motor has to come out (again)

And...
To my mind any NA car with a Turbo Kit is basically on a schedule to have the motor pulled :-)

... I would consider flying out (it is only a couple hundred bucks, even last minute) and driving it home if it were a Sedan.

Good luck with your sale.
Should you decide to part out - my guess is that a kit would sell for certain. Here in CA the issue is with Smog laws. You basically have to uninstall a non-legal kit every two years to get a vehicle smogged. Big hassle... and it used to be even bigger when they had "Smog Dyno". In CA you had to actually *DYNO* your car to check emissions under load. Its been abolished, but... it was a real bum rap because most of the cars never passed under load in the first place! Lol... cars were produced before the regulations were in place.

Anyhow
You may consider selling the car in an area where it has a higher value. When I hear $12k - pfffttt... to me??? That sounds like the bargain of a lifetime (assuming the engine is not roached etc - of course)

eh
The Manual Transmission and associated Sport package make it much more rare and attractive - AFAIAC. If anyone is serious, they are going to want a manual transmission. I have always driven a stick and there are certain satisfactions that an Automatic do not bring.

-methods

 

Thanks! It was the rings that are shot. I’ll have to rebuild it once it’s out. I’m in the process of rebuilding another motor for it. Using wiseco pistons, eagle rods, arp main/head bolts, cometic head gasket. It’s at the machine shop getting bored and the crank is getting turned. They’re going to put it together for me there as well. Once I get the short block back I can begin putting it together. I have remanufactured heads and I got all the timing components to go with the heads. Once the new motor is in, it’s getting hauled off to get tuned. Then I’ll have to get the body resprayed and get all the minor imperfections fixed. I want it to be a tuner show car. But keep the stock look on the outside.

 

I hear you.
Long haul :-)

I remember sitting in a dealership parking lot (in frustration) . . . trying to calculate what color (size) crank bearings to get for my first (re)build.



My rings were leaking compression as well - lol.

Above pictured is a cast piston out of my H22A4(10:1, 2.2L DOHC VTEC) that (at the time) was running 6PSI (non-intercooled).

I then went the path you speak of:
* Sleeved Block
* Pistons
* Rods
* Head...

In hind sight, if I had it to do over...
eh

Probably the only thing I would do different is to build every single last bit of it myself. I too had a 3rd party assemble the short block (out of nervousness) - ... thing is tho... After years and years of experience, and now having more confidence... Eh... Shop Boy gets the job of assembling some random short block. No chance shop boy is going to triple check things like I will... so...

Should I have to retrace these steps -
Definitely going to build my own short block. PASS or FAIL test it is.

* Wet vs Dry torque
* Bolt Stretch
* Bearing Gap

Eh... Always nice to have a friend with a Machine Shop who will hold your hand / loan you tools at the most critical points.

-methods

 

Yeah and friends at machine shop might give the "buddy discount" which can save a considerable amount of money.