When do I need to do the following:

Brake flush.

Coolant flush.

Injector cleaning or fuel line cleaning whatever you call it.

I already do my oil and filter change every 4000km, anything else that I might have missed?

 

I did all of those fluid flushes at my 48k service, as recommended by the dealership.

 

Thanks but what if you drive the car only summer time and store the car in the winter, Beecause for me to hit 48k would be a long time to come.

 

How many kms do you have on your car? Seems a bit early to do those fluid changes. Maybe a tranny drain/fill? Other than that, your PS should be ok still.

 

Eric, you're wise to consider time rather than distance in your case since at least the brake fluid has an affinity to water, and will absorb enough moisture to affect your braking in as little as a year.

I'd also be inclined to do the coolant flush and change every 2 yrs also.

I've found that use of a good fuel injector cleaner every 5k will maintain your injectors and fuel line.
Flush and clean of the fuel system might be considered at 3 or 4 years.

C.

 

Transmisssion flush? I'm not sure of the time interval though.

Like Colin said,

Brake flush, every year( since its sitting for a bit)
Coolant flush every 2 years

Not to sure on the fuel injector cleaning either...personally I have never used a fuel injection cleaner( yet) in my G.

 

Colins points a excellent.

re: brake fuid.
I would be changing brake fluid as part of your storrage prep.

Like Colin mentions, the hydroscopic property of the fuid means that you are storring water in your brake system over the winter that built up over the summer use.

If you're into DIY, it's actually very easy to do.
With one of these pressure bleeders, it's a one man job.
Motive Products


I also have one of they're fluid extrators on the way, for top side oil changes.

 

That sounds like an interesting gadget, Ian. I'd like to see that..
Would you relocate the filter to the top-side also????


Poor Injector flow could be such a slow process that you wouldn't notice the effects very easily.
It's possible that your injectors are fine, but to my thinking it's not likely.
As you probably know, poor injector flow would affect engine power and gas mileage.
If you've never done it, it might be worth a $10 bottle of good cleaner to see if there's any diff.
I personally don't trust our fuels much these days. I think we're pumping a little more than good, clean, high octane gas into our tanks these days..
Just a thought.



......and yes, tranny flush (both auto & manual) is a good thing -- from what I've heard, and provided the fluid isn't burnt earlier, auto tranny fluid should be changed out every 2 yrs.
Manual tranny-- I don't know....Being that it's a lot less quantity, it's probably good to change it every year to keep shiifting slick.


Colin.

 

Interesting stuff Ian. There was a lot of models of brake fluid fluid bleeders???

Is there much benefit to top side oil changes if the filter still must be accessed below or are you planning a remote unit? Good question Colin.

I've never done anything with the fuel system or my cooling yet. Think it may be time for a full system clean/flush this spring.
Trans fluid has been done twice as has the rear diff and brake flush. I couldn't get my brakes bled properly with my homemade bottle/line with aid of my "helper". After that I needed two trips to the dealer to get them to my satisfaction. That bleeder might be the way to go.

 

Fortunately BMW has the filter up top already....
With the extractor... no more crawling underneath to change the oil.
Also, I can extract an oil sample for testing at consistant milage intervals.

I'm sure Wayne is very familliar with oil extractors...,
They're used extensively for marine applications.

 

err...I thought about it for a bit; I dun think its the best idea to extract from the top...one of the main purposes of an oil change is to drain everything out from the bottom including sediments/dirt what not....

just my .02 cents

 

Actually tests have proven you get better evacuation with an extractor.
Many oil pans have pockets or flat spots that do not efficiently drain to the plug.

 

Ahhh, now I can see the move to an extractor, especially for the Z4M.

 

My helper got pretty good at the proceedure...
my problem was getting my helper when I wanted to the job.

There are also vacuum bleeders available, stay away from them.

The nice think with the pressure bleeder is you never have to worry about air getting in because the reservoir went low.

The new brake fluid goes into the pressure bleeder and is pushed through the system via the top cap.
I saw one that a guy modded with a stem extension inside the bleeder cap.
The stem was long enough to leave the brake fluid at the proper level in the reservoir when done.
Otherwise you need a turkey baster to draw the excess fluid out.

 

I don't think it was my helper at fault but more me not likely doing the proper sequence and the additional bleeder on each caliper. ( I missed them on the first pass) i still don't know the right sequence and have read some conflicting methods. One thing I don't like here is to go to the track I have to have a tech sign off on a fluid flush.

I would prefer to not use up brownie points using my "helper" for this kind of task anyhow.