Looking For General Feedback On Rustproofing
#16
Originally Posted by GEE35X
Godmans, I have always just got my trucks done since I keep them for 10 years or more.
I have never done a car since I never keep them for much more than 4 years.
The yearly application on my Extended cab GMC is $120 + tax.
All I know is Rust Check definitely works. My first experience with it was on a 1979 International Harvester Scout 2 4x4. Those things were notorius for rusting thru as soon as they left the factory, I never saw a Scout 4 years old that did not have rust on it except mine. I had it Rust Checked annually and I sold it in 1986 when I bought my 4x4 Suburban. My Scout was still immaculate. That is what sold me on it.
I then had my 86 Suburban done and it was still looked good 16 years later.
Here is a link about Rust Check : http://www.rustcheck.com/about.asp
I remember back in 1970 and I had my 1970 Cuda, and my buddy bought a 340 Challenger and had Ziebart applied to it. Well 4 years later there was a hole through the top of the one fender. Apparently what happened is the Ziebart did not adhere to the inside of the fender and a bubble formed in which condensation managed to get in there and it rusted right through the fender, at least that is what the bodyshop surmized. That is 1 One Step application I don't believe in for that reason.
I had another old vehicle years ago that I had oiled with recycled oil. Well it didn't work too bad for the body but it was messy and also destroyed the rubber body bushings and other rubber components. Rust Check will not hurt any of these things.
That is about all I can tell you Godmans, hope it was a bit of help.
Wayne
I have never done a car since I never keep them for much more than 4 years.
The yearly application on my Extended cab GMC is $120 + tax.
All I know is Rust Check definitely works. My first experience with it was on a 1979 International Harvester Scout 2 4x4. Those things were notorius for rusting thru as soon as they left the factory, I never saw a Scout 4 years old that did not have rust on it except mine. I had it Rust Checked annually and I sold it in 1986 when I bought my 4x4 Suburban. My Scout was still immaculate. That is what sold me on it.
I then had my 86 Suburban done and it was still looked good 16 years later.
Here is a link about Rust Check : http://www.rustcheck.com/about.asp
I remember back in 1970 and I had my 1970 Cuda, and my buddy bought a 340 Challenger and had Ziebart applied to it. Well 4 years later there was a hole through the top of the one fender. Apparently what happened is the Ziebart did not adhere to the inside of the fender and a bubble formed in which condensation managed to get in there and it rusted right through the fender, at least that is what the bodyshop surmized. That is 1 One Step application I don't believe in for that reason.
I had another old vehicle years ago that I had oiled with recycled oil. Well it didn't work too bad for the body but it was messy and also destroyed the rubber body bushings and other rubber components. Rust Check will not hurt any of these things.
That is about all I can tell you Godmans, hope it was a bit of help.
Wayne
If I do proceed with rustchecking, I am also debating if it is worth my time to do it myself or if I should leave it to the pro. Any inputs?
#17
Originally Posted by Mmagic76
+1 but my guy chiseled the nut off.
Wayne,
Is this the stuff you used on your top mounts/lower suspension?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...romSearch=true
Wayne,
Is this the stuff you used on your top mounts/lower suspension?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...romSearch=true
I usually buy half a dozen cans of the regular spray and one of the Coat and Protect when they come on sale at Crappy Tire. Keep your eyes open for sales of it, it only comes up once or twice a year.
I use the regular spray for the lawn mower and snow blower when I put them away for the season. I spray that stuff anywhere and on anything I think could use it
#18
Originally Posted by godmans
Thanks Wayne!! That is some really great info. I might indeed want to keep the G for maybe a few more years, which is why I am debating whether it will be worth it to do rustchecking =)
If I do proceed with rustchecking, I am also debating if it is worth my time to do it myself or if I should leave it to the pro. Any inputs?
If I do proceed with rustchecking, I am also debating if it is worth my time to do it myself or if I should leave it to the pro. Any inputs?
Years ago a friend and I made up a gun that we ran off a compressor to spray our vehicles but it was messy and a lot of work.
The people that do it have books that show all the proper spots on each vehicle to put their long spray nozzles to give good coverage. They do drill a few holes to get oil in necessary areas, which is scary at first but I've never had a problem with any of them.
#19
Originally Posted by GEE35X
Hi Randy thats the stuff , I also use the straight Rust check Spray which will run into crevices very well. The Rust Check "Coat and Protect" gives a good protective coating though.
I usually buy half a dozen cans of the regular spray and one of the Coat and Protect when they come on sale at Crappy Tire. Keep your eyes open for sales of it, it only comes up once or twice a year.
I use the regular spray for the lawn mower and snow blower when I put them away for the season. I spray that stuff anywhere and on anything I think could use it
I usually buy half a dozen cans of the regular spray and one of the Coat and Protect when they come on sale at Crappy Tire. Keep your eyes open for sales of it, it only comes up once or twice a year.
I use the regular spray for the lawn mower and snow blower when I put them away for the season. I spray that stuff anywhere and on anything I think could use it
My car was done with a "Permashine" undercoating. Here on the East Coast it's really important for anything you buy due to the salt air and road salt. It makes long term cars last and even selling after 3-4 year you can get the money back out of it.
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