Okay...

So I've been around the site, top to bottom.. bottom to top... Left to right, blue to red... (Not Dustin, the OTHER red)

I don't want to necro-post an 8 month old thread, nor do I want to hijack someone else's well intentioned post with my stupid questions. I ask the stupid questions around here- because everyone rolls their eyes and says "wow, for a guy who can write- he sure is simple."

Anyway, I've been scratching my head over a few things-

What can I say- Sasha is an excellent salesman. If I could ever get a full set of days off, I think I'm going to beg and plead him to work his magic and transform my relatively humble automobile into a fire breathing dragon. Granted, I sway at anchor every now and then (Sorry again, Andrew) but I think I've sorted out my direction. Warranty Schmarranty- as someone once said to me. But I need to ask a quick question for the period between now and then!

Okay, so as you guys know I'm running the non-revup version- I have installed a 5/16ths spacer... I also have a cobb tuner- and LSI adjusted my redline to match that of the revup. Of course, with that having been done, Cam noticed that though it was increased that my power curve really decreased over the original maximum revs. I mean, it plummetted. I figured it might have something to do with the fact that the engine needed some air it couldn't get- what with it being limited... probably by the stock lower plenum (I'm an 06 and apparently it's a different configuration than the 03-05)

What I want to know is between now and the time I finally pull the trigger on Sasha's turbo (I basically just worked the OT needed to pay for it!)- is that MREV 2 lower plenum going to be something I need ANYWAY to get maximum benefit from the turbo? When I had the maximum rev increased to match that of the revup- was I in fact converting my own engine into a (albeit inefficient and improperly equipped) rev up? So when I read about all the stuff as it pertains to both engines... with my increased revs on a non revup style... do I consider the feedback on the mrev 2 as it pertains to rev up or still non-revup?

And is this going to bring some benefit to the turbo, or is the turbo going to help overcome this limitation on its own by cramming the air in there anyway?


Once again- sorry... I know this is covered in numerous threads but a lot of them are quite old and I'm anti-necropost.


Thanks guys.

Frankly, I'd like to hear from some guys I'm learning to trust!

 

Your car is not a rev-up? Coupes 05 and up are all rev-up as far as i know? I have 2 non rev low plenums at my house if you really want one but I have never heard of this issue on a turbo car so it might help you but likely not enough to notice. Dustin has a rev-up and prior to getting his cosworth plenum he had no issues make power with his turbos.

 

I think Eno's is AT so is non-revup. From what I've read, the MREV will help a revup but 5/16 alone should have helped the non-revup, just maybe not at max revs where you might expect it to drop off anyway. Also, bumping the redline does not a revup make, I believe it has more to do with variable valve timing on both intake and exhaust rather than just intake (not sure I have that the right way around).

Bottom line, though, I think FI pretty much overcomes all that by, as you say, stuffing the air in there anyway. Gord's 03 is obviously not a revup and it does okay. I'd let more erudite folk chime in before making a firm decision, though.

 

By the sounds of it, I'll just save the money then and put it towards the turbo, and fuel control- and another tune.

 

swivel is right, there is valve timing on both intake and exhaust sides, air box is different as well. if F.I. is your route then personally i wouldnt bother trying to "make" a rev-up, your gains will be much larger with the boost. put the money into supporting mods for the turbo instead. and if you have the access port keep it instead of going piggyback for fuel management (unless you go standalone). the tuning is better imo.

 

Sasha had something in mind for fuel control... I met him at the Edmonton meet and he and Red were both quite adament about the route he was suggesting. If I'm going that route, I'll make sure to do my research but when two guys like that are giving me a starting place... well, that's where I start looking!

As was suggested before I'll probably unload my map (when the time comes) and sell the COBB to someone who has similar mods. LSI did the custom tune on it so there's some value there!

I also am going to get my head around that ECU reset... And speaking of which... someone at one of the meets (Edmonton mini I think) was telling me about a guy who was going around another meet with a macbook uninstalling car computers' program that analyzes fuel grades and sticks it to 91. Charged 20 bucks and took no time at all. Apparently a good efficiency boost- Anyone have any idea what that's about?

 

It was a 2 degree timing advance.

But you are going to have to make up your mind here. Going with Sasha'a kit your stock plenum and spacer will be fine and don't worry about the 2 degree timing advance.

Or if you are sticking N/A then yes look at different plenum changes and options. But as a guy that has gone down the N/A road then going FI just save your money for FI. I spent quite abit on N/A goodies just to lose half my money when i sold the parts and went to the TT setup.

Also with the Cobb tune you have, i am sure Cam at LSI has messed around with your timing i would not go a throw 2more degrees in there.

Your at a point where you need to man up and make a decision, Go hard with N/A which ends quickly or go down the FI road.

Even though we already have 1 Laser Red turbo'd G35 in Alberta. Just get a supercharger that will be original.

 

^ LMAO! Good answer, actually...don't mess around with ECU resets and timing changes, just listen to Sasha. He has a proven solution.

 

I would go with the COBB over a Haltech for your setup. You already own it and Cam can tune it unless you are going with a built engine then maybe consider the Haltech at least try the COBB if it dosent work you can always sell it then get a Haltech. A Haltech is $2,500ish if it were me I would stick with the COBB lots of cars are making good power on a COBB.

You guys are correct the AT came with the DE instead of the Rev-up i think we had this conversation before.

 

Oh man! Dustin calls me out.

Well, the discussion is being had right now- just needed to sort out deposit stuff. I'm not going to lie, I'm pretty fricken excited about the whole thing.

MAN UP AND MAKE A DECISION! DAYUM! lolol.

Yes, I know, I know. It's just tough love from one LR to another. I was holding off on it- in my mind I figured I'd be fine with NA... But no- Not anymore!


I was asking Sasha about the whole COBB thing actually too (just now), and I'm glad to see what you wrote above, Gord. Frankly, if I can do fine with the COBB and put that money into a decent gauge cluster and other necessary mods- it makes it a "GO NOW" project as opposed to a "wait and see" project.

Okay, so as it stands I'm going to stand down on the MREV2 and other associated tweaking and focus on FI. Must admit, I've been reading up on the whole "water-meth" injection stuff (AEM + Youtube = Lightbulb). MREV2 is 500 dolllars... water meth kit= about the same... hmmmm. Okay, maybe not tomorrow but seems like an efficient and reasonable concept!

 

If your getting a water meth kit don't cheap out and get an AEM or Snow they are inferior kits get an Aquamist the quality is head and shoulders above the others but its not cheap. I am not sure how water meth would work with a COBB with my Vi-PEC it switches to a water meth map as soon as the meth is squirted but I am not sure COBB has that capability. Also the COBB will have no safety in place if you run out of meth or a nozzel gets pluged but an aquamist system should have those safetys built in not sure about the cheaper systems. You may be able to do a pump gas tune and a meth tune and switch them manualy? At you power goals meth would not be required or provide much benifit but if you just inject it with no timing advance or boost increase it will help cool things down. The money would be better spent on a larger rad or an oil cooler or trans cooler and valve body upgrade may be your best investment if your AT. IMO

 

I would not bother with any other mods if you are going FI. The set up as is on just 8psi of boost will be enough to push the limit of the stock rods/bottom end. Not to mention that this turbo would be more than happy to push 14-16psi anyway.

If you decide to go with Cobb, then talk to cam. He will probably have to install the injectors for you at the shop because I do not have a base map for COBB for 550cc injectors.

We can also do a fuel return, I have two sets of fuel rails and can modify them easly.

I did this with my car, and it works great. I think it is a very good "budget" upgrade without having to buy an expensive set of new fuel rails. This would be a much better mod vs buying spacers/plenum stuff IMO.

 

Okay... so as it stands now it looks like a couple of things are going to move forward. Going to start harvesting funds to upgrade my valve body (Forged performance seems like the way to go? Opinions?), and possibly connecting rods (Cosworth perhaps?) Also, I think the fuel rail upgrade is a wise one. Other upgrades I've read about being a good idea as we start looking at more boost is cooling mods for the tranny... apparently warm trannies are contraindicated in longevity.

Also, a decent gauge cluster looks like a wise investment- "A" pillar mounted... Or perhaps something a bit more discrete. (nah)

And forgive the N008 question- but when a wizzard refers to "bottom end" which components are we talking about specifically?

 

Pistons rods crank etc, the literal bottom 'half' of the motor.

That 8 psi will put the motor around 400 wheel correct Sasha? Which is about what it seems to be reliably capable of (from what I've read thusfar). But before you start down this path I'd recommend doing what has been mentioned, valve body upgrade and most importantly a graciously sized transmission cooler. From experience with other cars, that will keep the autobox happy for the longest extent.

Another thing as kind of a sidenote, people overlook cams seemingly often. Being an auto I don't know if you got slightly weaker cams, but I would look into getting a basic street cam setup from a reputable company.

If you really want to drop the hammer and do rods/pistons/etc, you may want to look into a built autobox or swapping to 6 speed.

Just some thoughts, I am by no means well versed with these cars, just trying to offer some insight.

 

Thanks hucker...

I don't plan on being the first AT in Alberta to crank 600hp at the wheels or anything- but with the exception of the coolers and VB... (phase 1), the bottom end (Pistons rods Crank if I'm understanding) might be the phase 2 for next year? That way I don't cut corners and get inferior parts across the board.