Hi Greg,
Thanks for the quick shipment. I got a chance to try out my new flex, but doesn't seem like it's removing any scratches. Used it with m205 at first with white pad, then tried m205 with orange, then m105 with orange. I've done multiple passes (probably at least 20-30, not on the same panel, this is cumulative) and am not seeing any results. Any help? I clayed the car down first, taping off sections of about 24x24, doing slow passes while applying some pressure to the machine.

 

Anodized wheels look awesome but can be difficult to clean and maintain. With EVERY product you use on them I'd test it on a small area just to ensure you don't have a negative reaction. They are so sensitive to chemicals so I'm extra cautious with them. Make sure you use a pH neutral wheel cleaner, stronger cleaners could definitely cause some major issues with the wheels. For protection the Wheel Wax is solid but I'd suggest the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant instead. Wheel Wax is a cleaner and protectant and I'd prefer the more durable protection of a product strictly meant for protection like the Wheel Sealant. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

Greg @ DI

 

Thank you for asking we have a step by step guide that is quick and easy to follow in the engine bay section of our detailing guide. We also have a very similar write up here with pictures - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ur-engine-bay/. Let me know if you have any questions after reading that and I'd be happy to help. If you need to pick up any supplies don't forget we offer 10% off with the coupon code 10offg35.

Greg @ DI

 

The Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium should be exactly what you are looking for. It cleans and protects in one step. It makes the finish look darker and richer but it's not glossy or oily. In general you don't want a shinny interior because that usually attracts dust, dirt, etc. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI

 

Glad to hear overall it went very well, it sounds like the Civic is looking much better already. With your first detail it usually takes much longer, but with experience you'll become more efficient. I'd be happy to help with your questions.

1. One tip I have is to wash the vehicle with gloves I know this sounds unrelated but for some reason when I wash my vehicle with bare hands the buffer almost stings afterward. My other tip is to not use the side handle, I don't even screw it in my buffer. I put my handle directly above the spindle to get more even distribution of power. Reducing the power to 4 or 5 is acceptable when polishing as well.

2. The roof may be partially hollow so use less pressure there so it's not flexing in and out.

3. In general I prefer to use both polishes all over but you can spot treat some areas. It has the potential to look different with spot treatments but since you used the M205 afterward you probably won't notice any of it.

For the deeper scratches before giving up I'd suggest using the Surbuf R Series MicroFingers Buffing Pads with the M105 if you didn't already. This pad has significantly more polishing power but it still finishes down very well.

4. In general I recommend doing a full detail 1 - 2 times per year with the wash, clay, polish, sealant, etc. In between I would suggest a wash and sealant every 3 - 4 months. You don't have to use the clay bar or polish in between but some people will use the clay bar as needed.

5. The 303 AP is just a protectant it will not add color back to the surface. If you need to restore color to the trim check out a product like the TUF SHINE Black Restore Kit. This will add color back and you can use the 303 AP to preserve this afterward.

6. Yes. Any CLEAN foam applicator will work just fine. Here are some of our options:
DI Accessories Yellow Foam Applicator Pad
Lake Country Red Foam Applicator Pad
DI Microfiber Applicator Pad

7. In general paste waxes need to be applied by hand. Using a buffer with them usually wastes more time and product than it's worth. I'd simply suggest picking up a liquid wax then like the Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax which looks great on all colors.

8. Yes an orbital buffer like the PC can be used. In general I never use while polishing only with an ultra light polish like the PO85RD and a blue pad. It's more commonly used when applying a liquid wax or sealant again with a soft pad (blue) and lower speeds. Be careful around the edges and you should be fine.

Don't forget to use our detailing guide or our Ask a Pro Blog blog if you need immediate assistance. I hope this info helps and let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

 

Thank you for the order and I'm happy to hear it arrived quickly. The combination of products you used should be able to help remove light to medium swirls and very light scratches. Most scratches you can easily see or feel will be challenging to buff out. To ensure you get the most out of your buffer on these scratches use the M105 with the orange pad, bump it up to speed 6, moving slow and use about 15lbs+ of pressure downward. If this does not work the only next step I could advise is to use the Surbuf R Series MicroFingers Buffing Pads with the M105 next which works very well. If interested in more information check out this combination here - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-cable-7424xp/. After that a rotary buffer is your next step or you would just have to accept that they may be too deep to safely buff out. I hope this helps.

Greg @ DI

 

Thanks, it looks like I'll be ordering some more stuff! I was aiming to start on another car this weekend, just can't decide which one. I have a G35 and Highlander. For the Highlander, the roof is larger and has a few ridges or things which will make it more difficult. I think I'll need to take the rack off too. I think the G will go first, but it needs to most work.

 

I have some pretty bad swirling in my paint that I'd like to remove. Can I just buy the m105 and m205 meguiars polish and polish it out? What would you guys recommend? Does buying a buffer really matter or can I just use a normal rag (do microfiber cloths make that much of a difference?) Also if you could PM me how much you would generally charge for paint correction (hood/front bumper/fender area only) I'd appreciate it thanks

 

Hey there, I have a question about spot removal in the paint. See since I bought the car I saw a smudge on the trunk but I figured it would just come off with a good wash/buff/wax but it hasn't after three different waxing sessions (two included clay bar, one was with a professional detailer. other was just a car wash that had the extra service available)

But even the professional detailer wasn't able to get the spot out with a buff and wax. It is almost like some tar was dribbled onto the trunk and someone did a clear coat over it sealing it in. you can almost pick at it as if it was a chunk of mud that splashed up on the car but it doesn't chip away. It just resists everything lol. Have you ever dealt with something like that where it is a surface contaminant that is a PITA to remove? If so any tips on a service I should look into? Or maybe some sort of spot treatment solution that I can get at the auto shop. The spot is only about 1x1 inches.

 

Hey Greg,
I want to clean the car up for the summer. I usually just do a soap wash and wax, but this time I want to do more without taking it to be detailed. Besides, the wash and wax, what else should I be looking into doing? Clay bar for sap and grime? Polish?

Thanks

 

Good luck this weekend and keep us posted with the results.

Greg @ DI

 

Getting a detailing shop to do this could be expensive and generally most places would only do a full vehicle. A high quality shop is charging probably a minimum of $250 - $500 and certainly it can go much higher.

Polishing is the key to removing the swirls, oxidation, etc. and really creating the shine, where as waxes and sealants can only enhance the way the paint already looks. As for doing it yourself you certainly can get outstanding results with the assistance of a buffer. The problem with doing it by hand is that is that polishes require a lot of heat and pressure to be worked in to the surface. A good buffer can do 6,800 oscillations per minute where by hand you would be lucky to get a couple hundred per minute. The buffer also has the advantage of a much larger surface area and foam pads with different cell densities to maximize each pass. So if you wan to do this by hand I'd suggest a one step polishing process with a product like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205. If you want to use a buffer a kit like this (DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads) would be ideal. It gives you the pads, polishes, backing plate and buffer you need for outstanding results. This combo will remove far more surface imperfections and reveal a deeper shine.

If you want to read more about polishes, buffers, etc. check out our detailing guide and our Ask a Pro Blog. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

 

If you have a picture that would be a big help? Are the marks on top of the clear coat or embedded in it?

A wax will not remove imperfections as they are meant to add protection. I would use a clay bar, Stoner Tarminator or an adhesive remover to remove a build up. If the residue was in the finish I would polish it with the Meguiar's M205 and then move up to the M105.

Greg @ DI

 

It really just depends on how far you want to take it. If you're ready to step up to a more involved process I would suggest doing a full detail 1 - 2 times per year. I recommend a wash, clay, polish, sealant and wax (optional). I'll outline some products for each step and you can pick the ones you'd like.

Wash and Dry
Most swirls come from this process so be sure to use good technique and quality products. If you need to upgrade your products check out these kits:
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar
Helps deep clean the paint.
DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube

Polish
This is the step where you actually remove the swirls for good and restore that like new shine again!
Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad 2x
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - Lake Country White Polishing Pad 2x

Sealant
Protect the shine and enhance it!
Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger - Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad 1x

Wax
A sealant provides more than enough protection and an outstanding shine so you can certainly stop there. If you want the maximum gloss apply a wax on top of the sealant.
Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax - Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad

Hand remove all of these products with CLEAN microfiber towels. I highly recommend picking up about 5x - 10x DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel.

If you have any questions please check out our detailing guide or ask me I'd be happy to help!

Greg @ DI

 

^thank you do much. I'll be doing this this weekend.

quick question, my paint has some imperfections such as minor spider webbing and chips. will any of these products make it worse? I've never used a clay bar and just want to be certain applying it won't peel the paint or anything.