Ask a Professional Detailer...
#2011
I'm thrilled to hear the paint came out so well. Those pictures look great and I'm sure it looks even better in person. A good detail really helps make the paint pop again! The Klasse AIO is a great choice for the clear bra, should help with light surface imperfections. To get it perfect you may have to eventually remove the clear bra and polish the paint underneath it, but that is just a guess.
Keep up the great work and I look forward to hearing from you again!
Greg @ DI
Keep up the great work and I look forward to hearing from you again!
Greg @ DI
But now, I am working on my sister's pickup truck. It's always been parked outside and it's a 2004. Plus, it's white and shows everything. I am only in the cleaning stage right now and the fine grade clay bar is not picking up everything. I'll try to take some pics when I'm home, but there's some funky brown dots all over the hood and roof or any other body part that is parallel to the ground. There's also tree sap or some other stuff that I have no idea what it is. What's the best way to tackle this? Do I first get as much as I can with the clay bar that I have and then order a more course clay bar to hit it again? I hate having to break up work over a week or two waiting for materials!
Thanks
#2012
#2013
Hey, my roof is wrap in vinyl and while it was at the body shop it got covered with overspray and water spots. I was pretty pissed off and made the shop send it out to get the entire got detailed to remove the overspray, for some reason they only removed the overspray on half of the roof. They realized that it was vinyl and were afraid to finish the rest in fear they would ruin it.
I've tried some meguires polish compound on the side that still has the water spots & over spray with no luck. I have a PC but haven't gotten around to using it, any suggestions??
Thanks.
I've tried some meguires polish compound on the side that still has the water spots & over spray with no luck. I have a PC but haven't gotten around to using it, any suggestions??
Thanks.
#2014
Greg, I just bought a used 07 g35. It was in pretty decent shape, so I did some work on it with the products I got from you guys (you helped me on the acura forums) and used the m205 with the PC on the hood, then some poorboy's Ex sealant/wax on the hood, and then the Optimum GPS AIO on the rest of the car. I am pretty happy with the results for now. My issue now is the wheels. It looks like they were painted black in the past and now a lot of the paint has wore off. It actually looks neat from a distance, kind of hyperblack, but looks like **** up close. Any suggestions? (i tried simple chrome polish, but didn't make a dent)
I'll try to post a pic later.
The car paint color is the Serengeti Sand metallic. Any suggestions for my next purchase for the best sealant/wx for this color?
Thanks
I'll try to post a pic later.
The car paint color is the Serengeti Sand metallic. Any suggestions for my next purchase for the best sealant/wx for this color?
Thanks
#2015
Greg, I just bought a used 07 g35. It was in pretty decent shape, so I did some work on it with the products I got from you guys (you helped me on the acura forums) and used the m205 with the PC on the hood, then some poorboy's Ex sealant/wax on the hood, and then the Optimum GPS AIO on the rest of the car. I am pretty happy with the results for now. My issue now is the wheels. It looks like they were painted black in the past and now a lot of the paint has wore off. It actually looks neat from a distance, kind of hyperblack, but looks like **** up close. Any suggestions? (i tried simple chrome polish, but didn't make a dent)
Thanks
Thanks
Am i going to have to sand and get some wheel clear coat or sealant? I have never tried wheel "correction" before.
Thanks
#2016
Hi Greg
I am having difficulty removing hardened tree sap off of a car. It's pretty thick and has probably been there for quite some time. I tried the clay bar which helped just a tiny bit, but about 90% of the original sap is still there. Do you have any tips to get this off?
Thanks
Vince
I am having difficulty removing hardened tree sap off of a car. It's pretty thick and has probably been there for quite some time. I tried the clay bar which helped just a tiny bit, but about 90% of the original sap is still there. Do you have any tips to get this off?
Thanks
Vince
#2017
Hey Greg - I'm a big fan of the DI detailing guide and the products you carry. I have a big paint issue now, though, that I can't seem to figure out....I have detailed my OB G35 once (sometimes twice) a year for the past 4-5 years using my PC. But the last two times I have detailed, my paint has looked very bad in some spots, especially the hood and one of the rear pillars. I have what looks like very bad fading and scratching in these areas, and I can't figure out if I have not cut deep enough with the polish, or if I have gone too deep, and there is little or no clear coat left. As your guides and postings recommended, I have always started with a light cutting polish to test, then moved to heavier cutting polish and pads with several passes as necessary. The picture below shows the condition of my hood after 1 pass of Power Gloss with a yellow pad, several passes of Megs M105 on an orange then Surbuf pads, then Intensive Polish, and NanoFinish....and it looks terrible after a couple of days.
I know it is supposed to be difficult to take off the clear coat with the PC random orbital, but is it possible that the hood has been polished too many times, with too many passes with Power Gloss and SIP?
This last picture shows my rear pillar, which besides being faded also looks like it has some etching that I have not been able to remove. Do you think this paint can be saved?
Thanks
Joe
I know it is supposed to be difficult to take off the clear coat with the PC random orbital, but is it possible that the hood has been polished too many times, with too many passes with Power Gloss and SIP?
This last picture shows my rear pillar, which besides being faded also looks like it has some etching that I have not been able to remove. Do you think this paint can be saved?
Thanks
Joe
I think you used several combinations that were just a bit too aggressive. I would try to remove it starting on a small section with a lighter and lighter pad and polish combo. I would try something like the Menzerna Power Finish PF 2500 (PO203) and a white pad and then follow it up with a blue pad and the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD) and a blue pad. I think this should make an improvement, but it may take two attempts with the SF 4000 to get some of that haze removed. Also be sure you're not using too much pressure, when cutting 10 - 15 lbs of pressure is usually good.
Greg @ DI
#2018
Hi Greg, so I took care of my other car (I didn't take any pictures) and it turned out great. I ended up putting 2 coats of sealant on this one which I realize I should have done on the first 2 cars I did.
But now, I am working on my sister's pickup truck. It's always been parked outside and it's a 2004. Plus, it's white and shows everything. I am only in the cleaning stage right now and the fine grade clay bar is not picking up everything. I'll try to take some pics when I'm home, but there's some funky brown dots all over the hood and roof or any other body part that is parallel to the ground. There's also tree sap or some other stuff that I have no idea what it is. What's the best way to tackle this? Do I first get as much as I can with the clay bar that I have and then order a more course clay bar to hit it again? I hate having to break up work over a week or two waiting for materials!
Thanks
But now, I am working on my sister's pickup truck. It's always been parked outside and it's a 2004. Plus, it's white and shows everything. I am only in the cleaning stage right now and the fine grade clay bar is not picking up everything. I'll try to take some pics when I'm home, but there's some funky brown dots all over the hood and roof or any other body part that is parallel to the ground. There's also tree sap or some other stuff that I have no idea what it is. What's the best way to tackle this? Do I first get as much as I can with the clay bar that I have and then order a more course clay bar to hit it again? I hate having to break up work over a week or two waiting for materials!
Thanks
Greg @ DI
#2019
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thank god for thread subscriptions. just got the new post email for this thread and reminded me I need more wax and polish.
time to surf detailed images site again.
and does anybody use glaze/sealant or whatever that thing is that people put besides just wax and polish? i know there's glaze, but I'm not sure if it's even worth applying unless there's a decent difference.
time to surf detailed images site again.
and does anybody use glaze/sealant or whatever that thing is that people put besides just wax and polish? i know there's glaze, but I'm not sure if it's even worth applying unless there's a decent difference.
#2020
Greg @ DI
#2021
Hey, my roof is wrap in vinyl and while it was at the body shop it got covered with overspray and water spots. I was pretty pissed off and made the shop send it out to get the entire got detailed to remove the overspray, for some reason they only removed the overspray on half of the roof. They realized that it was vinyl and were afraid to finish the rest in fear they would ruin it.
I've tried some meguires polish compound on the side that still has the water spots & over spray with no luck. I have a PC but haven't gotten around to using it, any suggestions??
Thanks.
I've tried some meguires polish compound on the side that still has the water spots & over spray with no luck. I have a PC but haven't gotten around to using it, any suggestions??
Thanks.
Normally for the clear coat you can safely polish it but that is so much thicker and safer. The vinyl wrap usually has some sort of top coating but it's incredibly thin. So normally I would never recommend polishing it unless you were ready to have it removed and it's your last step. If it is start with a light polish and see if that helps.
Overall it may just be easier and more time/cost effective to have the top wrapped again. Sorry to hear about this situation and good luck!
Greg @ DI
#2022
Greg @ DI
The following users liked this post:
Mo07G35s (08-28-2012)
#2023
Hi Greg
I am having difficulty removing hardened tree sap off of a car. It's pretty thick and has probably been there for quite some time. I tried the clay bar which helped just a tiny bit, but about 90% of the original sap is still there. Do you have any tips to get this off?
Thanks
Vince
I am having difficulty removing hardened tree sap off of a car. It's pretty thick and has probably been there for quite some time. I tried the clay bar which helped just a tiny bit, but about 90% of the original sap is still there. Do you have any tips to get this off?
Thanks
Vince
Sap that has hardened over a long period of time is a detailers worst nightmare. If you have large chunks of it on the surface you can try to pick it off or extremely carefully use a plastic razor blade. I only do this to get off the top layer when it gets closer to the surface I then try everything I have Stoner Tarminator, Mineral Spirits, 3M Adhesive Remover, Medium Grade Clay Bar, etc. After that you'll definitely need to polish those areas usually they have etched in to the surface. The Meguiar's M105 and M205 should be a big help.
Greg @ DI
#2024
thank god for thread subscriptions. just got the new post email for this thread and reminded me I need more wax and polish.
time to surf detailed images site again.
and does anybody use glaze/sealant or whatever that thing is that people put besides just wax and polish? i know there's glaze, but I'm not sure if it's even worth applying unless there's a decent difference.
time to surf detailed images site again.
and does anybody use glaze/sealant or whatever that thing is that people put besides just wax and polish? i know there's glaze, but I'm not sure if it's even worth applying unless there's a decent difference.
Greg @ DI
#2025
Sap that has hardened over a long period of time is a detailers worst nightmare. If you have large chunks of it on the surface you can try to pick it off or extremely carefully use a plastic razor blade. I only do this to get off the top layer when it gets closer to the surface I then try everything I have Stoner Tarminator, Mineral Spirits, 3M Adhesive Remover, Medium Grade Clay Bar, etc. After that you'll definitely need to polish those areas usually they have etched in to the surface. The Meguiar's M105 and M205 should be a big help.
Hi Greg, after trying numerous times to remove the spots with the clay, I gave up. But when I began polishing, it removed the spots immediately. I guess I got lucky in this case.
Hi Greg, after trying numerous times to remove the spots with the clay, I gave up. But when I began polishing, it removed the spots immediately. I guess I got lucky in this case.
Last edited by V's G; 08-27-2012 at 11:14 AM. Reason: replied to wrong message