my car has a clear bra and they even put the mylar over the headlites as well which has turned yellow...I tried a hair dryer on it but it only softened the edges allowing me to scrape off that which was soft...I need direction on how to get the rest off. I fear anymore heat than the hair dryer will melt the plastic lenses.....help please

 

I really doubt a hair dryer can melt the plastic lenses. I've put mine in the oven in order to take them apart and that was completely fine.

 

I would probably still use the hair dryer just dial back the heat or don't hold it as close. Use it to help get an edge up and then slowly peel it back.

This article will help somewhat:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...al-and-detail/

Good luck!

Greg @ DI

 

the roof seems to be rough.... got no idea what happen to it before
the door smooth

zoom

and the hood is also smooth

zoom

I got no idea what happen to those parts because I bought this car from insurance auction.. and they were never repair
thx for Help ))

 

I would suggest looking around for a top quality detailer in your area for a full restore or you could try to tackle some of this on your own. That mark near the door looks to have some deep imperfections and there almost seems to be some color missing. This definitely concerns me and I'd be extremely careful if you polish or wet sand that area. Sorry I can't be more helpful!

Greg @ DI

 

I was wondering about what kind of product should I use to take out water spots and polish my exhaust.

 

Water Spots, if you dont want to spend the big bucks, go down to autozone and buy Meguiars Water Spot Remover. And for the exhaust polish, rub with some 0000 iron wool and then use Mother's Metal polish. That's the exact same products I use on my customer cars

 

Steel wool does clean very well. I personally don't like the steel wool because it's a bit abrasive and ultimately it does leave ultra fine scratches on the surface. On most metal finishes it's tough to see them but these micro-scratches create more grooves for contaminants to collect in. I personally would prefer a soft cloth and a good metal polish like the P21S Finish Restorer. This product is a bit more gentle and deep cleans the surface, producing a deep shine! Afterwards you can apply a bit of sealant to this freshly cleaned surface if interested.

Greg @ Detailed Image

 

Quick Question. I am not sure if you remeber me, it has been a while. Last year I bought the mcguire product from you with the random orbital buffer thing and the two bottles of polish and wax/sealer. I am going to do up the car this weekend. I want to really make it shine and pop. Before I just used the first bottle then used a sealer i bought from you. Sorry, I am at work and don't remember the name. My questin is this. If I do the first bottle (polish) the used the other bottle (sealer/wax). I was wanting to add that extra step to really make it shine, that wet look. Also to help water wash off car during rain.

What do you recommend? I still have the sealer you gave me (white bottle, i know that does not help) I would like to utilized the rest of the mcguires stuff since I paid for it. If I were to add a wax after all that. How long should I wait after I do the sealer/wax mcguire stuff? What Wax do you recommend? I have the porter cable 7424 so i don't have a true orbital buffer, and I don't want to spend hours buffing the wax after i just spend two hours doing the first couple products.

Last question, what interior leather conditioner do you recommend?

Thanks again!

 

Hi Greg, I just thought I'd share a few pictures of what I did. Because of the broken backing plate and having to wait for a new one, I ended up dong the car over 3 weekends. Pictures don't do it justice, but to the naked eye, it looks pretty damn good. My friends and I were blinded when looking at the paint in a certain light. Also, I had asked about the clear bra in the past so I tried polishing it, then went back over it with Klasse AIO which did a decent job. It's still in bad shape, but it's more acceptable now. I also have some spots on the material over the headlight as I think the previous owner also put some sort of clear bra material over that as well. Thanks for all of you help!

 

I know we chatted via e-mail so I'll provide a brief response here in case others are interested. After using the Meguiar's Finishing Wax (which is a polish and sealant in one) you can apply a sealant on top of it but you may not maximize it's durability. Therefore you can use the Finishing Wax and stop or wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash afterward to remove the Finishing Wax and just a sealant afterward. If you do want to apply the Finishing Wax and a sealant, first let it cure for at least an hour before applying the sealant afterward.

The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil is easily my favorite conditioner which can be used on brand new leather and faded old seats.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

 

I'm thrilled to hear the paint came out so well. Those pictures look great and I'm sure it looks even better in person. A good detail really helps make the paint pop again! The Klasse AIO is a great choice for the clear bra, should help with light surface imperfections. To get it perfect you may have to eventually remove the clear bra and polish the paint underneath it, but that is just a guess.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to hearing from you again!

Greg @ DI

 

I think maybe you might have missed my question. When I bought my car I noticed that someone had used the wrong color touch up paint to fill in some chips on the front. Is it possible to remove the bad touch up paint so I can make it look better?

 

My apologies if I missed your question I sponsor over a dozen forums so sometimes I'm moving a bit too fast. Removing bad touch paint is really tough to do well without a lot of experience. I believe it's possible with really strong chemical cleaning agents and/or wet sanding, either way it's going to create a bit of a mess that must be cleaned up by a pro who can apply the correct paint and clear coat afterward plus wet sand and polish afterward so it looks more uniform. So in short I'd highly recommend seeking out more assistance from a professional body shop or just letting them do it. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

 

Hey Greg - I'm a big fan of the DI detailing guide and the products you carry. I have a big paint issue now, though, that I can't seem to figure out....I have detailed my OB G35 once (sometimes twice) a year for the past 4-5 years using my PC. But the last two times I have detailed, my paint has looked very bad in some spots, especially the hood and one of the rear pillars. I have what looks like very bad fading and scratching in these areas, and I can't figure out if I have not cut deep enough with the polish, or if I have gone too deep, and there is little or no clear coat left. As your guides and postings recommended, I have always started with a light cutting polish to test, then moved to heavier cutting polish and pads with several passes as necessary. The picture below shows the condition of my hood after 1 pass of Power Gloss with a yellow pad, several passes of Megs M105 on an orange then Surbuf pads, then Intensive Polish, and NanoFinish....and it looks terrible after a couple of days.





I know it is supposed to be difficult to take off the clear coat with the PC random orbital, but is it possible that the hood has been polished too many times, with too many passes with Power Gloss and SIP?

This last picture shows my rear pillar, which besides being faded also looks like it has some etching that I have not been able to remove.



Do you think this paint can be saved?

Thanks
Joe