Looking forward to reading your thoughts after giving it a go! I don't think you'll be disappointed

Wet look isn't going to come from a wax, it's properly prepping your paint. Which includes removing as much contamination as possible (washing and claying) and removing as many imperfections in the paint as possible (polishing with a quality buffer). Until you master those steps, changing to a different wax isn't going to make a major difference in the end result. What you'll notice though is easier application and removal, tighter water beading, variation in durability and to some extent, the amount of depth and gloss and sharpness of reflections. What is your budget on a wax? I'll give you a recommendation based on that.

Cheers,

George

 

i have a few scratches that my dad tried to cover with touch up pen, now the pen has left some ugly bumps from uneven paint. What should i do, im thinking that i should wet sand and polish but is it ok to polish even tho i dont have a buffer? should i just do it by hand? any steps that i should take prior to sanding? please help me out =(

 

Do you ship to Canada??

 

Just got the latest shipment today. Thanks George!

 

Ok, so I tried to clean one of my winter rims this past weekend. It was really hard and just wouldn't clean up with soap, simple green, scrubbing...it still had a film on it. This film kinda came off on the face of the rim with Neverdull but it would have taken forever. I ended up using this Lime Away stuff from Whink and that worked great on the face and the inner part of the rim. It got it real shiney with little effort. However, my rims still have this deposit on them that I just cannot remove. I tried a metal scraper on the inside and it will take it off but it scratches so I can't use it on the front. Here are some pics of what I'm talking about:

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You can see the deposits better on the inside of the rim. I have no clue what they are or what to use to remove them. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Jeff

 

Your on the right track. Basically to even out the touch up paint, you'll need to wet sand, then polish to remove the wet sanding marks, then protect those areas. If you're polishing by hand, it's very important that you finish with a high grit wet sand, preferably 2500 or 3000, which can be hard to find locally. Follow that up with some polish. It may or may not be hard to fully remove the wet sanding marks depending on your experience with all of this. It's highly recommended to remove wet sanding marks with a quality buffer. Be sure to protect your paint when you are done.

Yes we do using USPS. You can check out right through our site.

Thanks Tim, can't wait to hear your thoughts on the Dodo Juice Double Wax!!!

Jeff, with the metal scraper these marks are being removed? Can you feel these marks on the surface? Are they raised? If it's contamination, you could try claying the wheels first. Then what I'd do is follow up with a good metal polish with some elbow grease to restore the luster and remove any oxidation or staining that may have occurred.

It sounds like you may have some work cut out for you. The safest method is going to be using a metal polish, like Never Dull, or something else, and take your time and slowly but surely remove the marks. Otherwise, as you experienced, a fast way may scratch the rims or potentially do even more damage.

Good luck.

George

 

They are raised bumps. They don't come off at all with Neverdull. Isn't there a safe chemical to clean this off? It would probably take six hours a wheel to get it off with Neverdull. As it is, I already put about an hour into this wheel.

 

after i wetsand, what kind of polish do you recommend? what type of pad also?
thanks so much for your help =)

 

hey had a quick question i am gonna clay my car tommarow and theres wax already on the car, does clay strip thewax and i use megs next tech 2.0 cani layer it and how long should i wait between coats

 

If it's raised bumps, I'd give using a clay bar a shot. The tough part about restoring your wheels is that they have a high polished finish and a strong cleaner is going to oxidize the finish. One of the cleaners that's safe to use on high polished wheels is P21S Wheel Gel. I'd spray it on, let it dwell for a while, then agitate it with a microfiber towel. Other than that, you're stuck with using the metal polish.

It depends on what you finish with for the grit of the sand paper. The higher the grit you finish with, the easier it'll be to polish out. I'd recommend finishing with at least 2000 grit, 2500, or 3000 if you can find it. Typically you need at least a medium cutting polish, like Menzerna Intensive Polish and an orange pad, then follow up with a finishing polish, such as Menzerna Final Polish II usually on a white pad. Sometimes you need a compound if you go more aggressive with the sanding.

Using a clay bar will remove most if not all of the wax on the car. You'll definitely want to reapply your protection when you're done. If the Megs NXT Tech 2.0 doesn't have any cleaners in it, you can usually layer it. I'd wait 12 - 24 hours between coats to ensure it has probably bonded to the paint. If there are cleaners in it, there's no point of layering it as the one coat will strip off the previous coat when you go to apply it.

George

 

hey thanks, ah i have a few rock chips by my rear quater and i wanted to know wat can i do to get rid of them by hand??

 

Basically you'll need to touch them up to fix them. Here's a link to a post giving an overview of performing a touch up. You could also buy a Langka kit or something similar, Dr. Colorchip is another one I believe.

George

 

I have a friend with a set of Privat Reserv wheels in gunmetal, and they are a kind of rought material, not polished or painted like normal wheels, more like a raw metal feel (not sure what it's called). He tried to clean his wheels, but has spots that look like stains on them that won't come off with soap and water, and we're not sure what to do. Any advice on cleaning this type of wheel would be great, and I can try to get pics if needed.

 

If you can take pics it would definitely help assess the situation. From what you're describing, chances are you have a metal that oxidized from a wheel cleaner. Your best bet is to use only soap and water when caring for wheels like this and protect them with something like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant. To remove the oxidation, you'll need to use some sort of metal polish along with some elbow grease to work out the stains. I'd suggest something like P21S Finish Restorer.

If you have any other questions, let me know.

George

 

+1 for P21S Finish Restorer oh and you could also try P21S Polishing soap.