A technicians gripe...
#31
05-26-2010 | 07:18 PM
I dont really care about all that....however i still firmly believe this is a sports car. Im not completley sure it was worthy of the Skyline moniker in japan. However its is a reasonaby powerfull (280hp/300hp depending on the year and transmission) rear wheel drive coupe that only tips the scales at 3500lbs. And it looks HOT! That sounds like a ports car to me. I have also owned rotaries, and a few toyota's (hence my avatar) this one is my favorite so far, and its still stock.
#35
05-27-2010 | 12:17 AM
#37
05-27-2010 | 10:29 AM
So I traced my steps back - the only difference was I had my stock ECU bracket removed to get the UTEC to fit in there nicely in my G35. I used an ohm-meter to check the casing of the UTEC/stock ECU w/ chassis ground. NOTHING! I had the ground plug from the UTEC molex connector hooked up. Again WTH? The UTEC chassis is not grounded? So I hooked up a dedicated ground wire from the stock ECU chassis to the chassis ground point.
BINGO - AFR 15/1 on both banks w/ CIPHER. Idle normal. Smoke and fumes initially still there but dissipated quickly.
Unbelieveable that chassis ground could make that kind of difference. You'd think that there are multiple ground signals coming over the wiring through the harness.
LESSON LEARNED!
BINGO - AFR 15/1 on both banks w/ CIPHER. Idle normal. Smoke and fumes initially still there but dissipated quickly.
Unbelieveable that chassis ground could make that kind of difference. You'd think that there are multiple ground signals coming over the wiring through the harness.
LESSON LEARNED!
Incident Description:
DTC P1444, EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve or P1440, EVAP Control System (Small Leak) (Positive Pressure) or P1491 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve are stored in self diagnosis memory.
Root Cause:
The Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve (P/N 14930-9E010 or 14930-9E011) leaking (stuck open slightly).
Service Procedure:
Check the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve for leakage using one of the following methods:
Preferred method:
Connect CONSULT, turn ignition key on but do not start the engine.
Select Engine, Data Monitor, EVAP System Pressure Sensor.
Note the reading. It should be between 3.32 and 3.40 volts.
Start the engine and allow it to idle. If the voltage noted in step 3 decreases, replace the EVAP
Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve.
Alternate method:
Disconnect the vacuum hose for the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve from the intake manifold
and connect a hand vacuum pump to the valve.
Apply vacuum. If the vacuum does not hold, replace the valve.
DTC P1444, EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve or P1440, EVAP Control System (Small Leak) (Positive Pressure) or P1491 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve are stored in self diagnosis memory.
Root Cause:
The Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve (P/N 14930-9E010 or 14930-9E011) leaking (stuck open slightly).
Service Procedure:
Check the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve for leakage using one of the following methods:
Preferred method:
Connect CONSULT, turn ignition key on but do not start the engine.
Select Engine, Data Monitor, EVAP System Pressure Sensor.
Note the reading. It should be between 3.32 and 3.40 volts.
Start the engine and allow it to idle. If the voltage noted in step 3 decreases, replace the EVAP
Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve.
Alternate method:
Disconnect the vacuum hose for the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve from the intake manifold
and connect a hand vacuum pump to the valve.
Apply vacuum. If the vacuum does not hold, replace the valve.
#38
05-27-2010 | 03:44 PM
Hmm...i did just properly reinstall my ECU two days ago...it had been hanging down every since I had a UTEC in before.
I have access to AllData...will do some troubleshooting this weekend. I think this problem came about back when I had wrecked the car in the rear where the EVAP canister is. My buddy who fixed the car forgot to replace the damaged EVAP can, so all the hoses were left sitting for a while. I finally sourced a used one, and after installing the code never went away.
I have access to AllData...will do some troubleshooting this weekend. I think this problem came about back when I had wrecked the car in the rear where the EVAP canister is. My buddy who fixed the car forgot to replace the damaged EVAP can, so all the hoses were left sitting for a while. I finally sourced a used one, and after installing the code never went away.
#41
05-29-2010 | 01:04 PM
wow, this thread made me LOL as I got to read through the whole thing. I wish I had been here to add more fuel to the fire 
I myself have witnessed similar issues (though not from a tech standpoint). I'll overhear things from other drivers at the dealership or wherever and it cracks me up.
As everyone knows, the tires are a tough issue. Like everyone has said, it's just never going to make everyone happy. As this thread has shown, different people view the G in different ways. Mine rattles here and there and I do have phantom suspension noises, but I also drive mine like a sports car as vs. a luxury car. You live and you learn. I have learned quite a bit since I got my G. Unfortunately, that customer will probably never learn.
I myself have witnessed similar issues (though not from a tech standpoint). I'll overhear things from other drivers at the dealership or wherever and it cracks me up.
As everyone knows, the tires are a tough issue. Like everyone has said, it's just never going to make everyone happy. As this thread has shown, different people view the G in different ways. Mine rattles here and there and I do have phantom suspension noises, but I also drive mine like a sports car as vs. a luxury car. You live and you learn. I have learned quite a bit since I got my G. Unfortunately, that customer will probably never learn.
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