i went to the track for the first time since i bought the car. which was about 2 1/2 weeks ago....it is a g35 coupe, 6mt, and i put on a popcharger, z-tube, and kinetix racing plenum... so my first run i ran a 14.2 and then once i crossed the line i put it in nuetral and coasted the rest of the track to slow down... once i got to the end i noticed that all the lights in the gauge pod where lit up...battery, airbags, oil, service engine soon...and not only that i no longer had power steering or power brakes.( i had VDC off the entire time) however, i had 5 more runs and out of the five the same thing happened again!!! at the end of the track i have to stop the car and restart it... can anyone tell me what is going on?!?!?!?!!

Thanks

Jay S.

 

Sounds like your car is stalling when you are going from WOT to idle. Are you doing an ECU reset before the runs? Do you just install any of the mods before you went to the track? You car might just need time to adjust to the mods/environment.

 

I put on the popcharger on about a week and a half ago....and the z-tube and kinetix v4 plenuim on thursday afternoon. and no i haven't reset the ecu..i was going to get my ecu reflashed by AAM but its to expensive to do with just the mods i have on now.

 

Did you unplug the throttle body when you installed the plenum? How does the car idle?

 

I had the same problem when I had a AEM intake. I fugged with it FOREVER and could never get it fixed.

 

I dont have a G yet...but when ever i do that in my Celica...going from WOT to neutral my car usually struggles to stay on....a couple of times it has turned off. The solution i came up with was just not to pop it in neutral...after finishing a race at a track, im in 4th so i just let go of the accelerator and maybe ill upshift then begin to downshift . The car hasnt turned off on me since

 

So aside from the problems, was 14.2 your best run?

 

^Im thinking so, if he ran a 13.9 he would probably say, "after running my 13.9 my car stalled".

 

ya 14.2 was my best time. i had tons of wheel hop.... it was horrible all night. my reaction time are great but the wheel hop kills me.....

 

Not bad for a 2.3xx 60'. They say for every tenth off your 60' equals 2 tenths off your time down the track. The power is there, so a 2.1xx 60' could get you a high 13 run.

 

that would be nice if i could some how reduce the wheel hop... it kills me everytime. however i am going to Englishtown raceway tomorrow to see if i can somehow get into the 13's.

 

It happened to me the first day I put on the injen cai....the solution is real simple......never ever put the car in neutral and coast at speed....I never did it again....never had a problem.......30k miles and running.

 

Back to the wheel hop question i have the same problem. How do you fix it? Its makin me mad. I rev too high i spin the tires, i rev lower it bogs out. Somebody help us with this.

 

I am new to this could somebody please explain what the Plenum Spacers do?

 

Here's a little trick the 350z guys have been doing for exactly what you are talking about. With or without cams this works. It's vacuum/maf/idle air valve issue. Hope this helps.

My 350Z is an early model 2004 production date. We were able to adjust the base idle with the Consult tool, however, with my extensive mods, it didn't do enough. My particular car has headers, straight pipes, straight out JIC single exit exhaust with no resonator, pulleys, Tilton, and 05 track plenum. As it is, prior to the cam install, the car's idle was struggling. It would idle around 600-700 rpms, which is ok, but the problem is when you are driving, or revving the motor, and the RPMs drop back down, they would drop low and pop back up. When we put the cams in, due to all my mods, especially the tilton/pulley combo, and no backpressure in the exhaust, the car would drop rpms very fast after being revved, or coming to a stop when in neutral, and it wouldjust stall. The ecu couldn't keep up no matter how much we played with the timing and idle settings with the Consult. Then one of my customers tipped me off to the JWT trick, regarding splicing and T-ing off some vacuum lines to help the car's idle via more vacuum. here is a pic of the diagram:


Basically, what you are doing is splicing into the vacuum hose off the intake pipe/tube, and teeing it into the vacuum line off of the plenum by the Throttle body. This allows more vacuum to the motor, and as such helps stabalize the idle in cases like mine, where the ECU just couldn't keep up.

Now the relevence of this mod.....
In situations like mine, where you need help stabalizing the idle after revving, or comiing to a stop in neutral etc... This mod helped tremendously. There are no ill side effects of this mod, but you should only try it if you need it. With my cams in the car, and with this mod, my car idles great and doesn't stall whatsoever. So if you have a later year 350Z or G, and you don't want to do cams because you can't play with the base idle on your ecu, you can just perform this mod, and you should be able to run the cams with no idle issues.

The diagram shows the parts and sizes needed, so in essence this can be a do-it-yourself type of deal, however, when it came to my car, I decided against using plastic parts, and drilling/tapping into the plastic connectors since there is a good chance doing that would leak down the road. I opted to use full brass connectors for longevity, and reliability. WE will be offering a kit for this mod on our site soon for sale.

BAsically, with all my mods, and then the cams, my car's idle wasn't the best, and it would stall when the rpms dropped, all the time. Now with this mod, my car runs great. No issues.

Just a quick heads up for you all, as this can be attributed and used on the car in many different situations to help you out with similar troubles.

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