I'm having the same issue. I installed a switch and it worked once, and as I was putting the console back in place (key still on) one of the wires came off of the switch so I put it back on but the slip and vdc lights won't go back off after key cycles. I thought I probably blew a fuse but all of my fuses look good. The fuse for this is the big weird looking one with (I believe) two 30 amp and one 40 amp fuse within the same little fuse thing? Either way I disconnected the switch and connected the orange wire back to itself likestock, but the lights still won't go off. I unplugged my battery and held the brake down for 10 seconds and also turned the key as to start it to make sure all power was out of the system, reconnected to battery but still no luck. Like a noob I also forgot to turn my key off while pulling fuses and my check engine light is on now not sure why. I believe it has something to do with the ecu. But its almost as if the orange wire isn't getting any power anymore? Could someone help!

 

Sorry to rez an old thread just wanted to see if you ever got yours working again. Was going to get back at mine this week redoing all connections with higher quality parts as well testing the orange wire for power. Was also going to try and use a yaw sensor I pulled from my brothers wrecked g35 to see if maybe I was dumb and shorted mine out long ago by maybe forgetting to disconnect my battery. As of now they just flicker once and stay on if everything is connected like stock which made me think I damaged the sensor.

 

subbed so i can read all 13 pp later..

 

Unfortunately I never did get it working again. Not that I ever really cared though lol. But I no longer have my G35 anymore anyway so yea :/

 

Gotcha. Yeah I usually don't mind it being off all the time I just have to be more careful on who I let drive it especially if it's wet out and wanted to just have the option to turn it on if need be.

 

Sorry again for resurrecting this thread but I think the process for the traction control, and this particular problem and solution that many people experience needs to be stickied.

I had this same issue for two years. The solution is that the orange wire needs constant 12v power. Just splice it from somewhere, hook it up, and you should be good. This guy posted a video about it recently:

 

 

Just pull the vdc relay. Done. ABS still works but lights are on the dash.

 

I just put a button in my coin holder to disable all assistance for certain race uses at track day. It's super simple and convenient.