RPM's at 80 MPH
Well, you guys have convinced me to do the 3.5/vlsd swap. I hope my CC works like Toll's too, even though my G will no longer be the long distance family hauler after March when we get rid of the wife's 98 Legacy GT wagon and get a newer, far more plush late model Outback Limited. I'll admit, I have argued in the past that the 3.5 swap doesn't make much difference in the 1/4 mile as tested with my 23.5" tall drag radials (makes the effective ratio a 3.55). My car was fractionally slower ET wise and about 1.5mph slower due to the early 4th gear shift. But the 3.5 gear WITH the 23.5 DRs would bring the ratio up to a 3.75. After doing some math and factoring in the extended rev limiter of the TS ECU flash, the car could be a bit quicker in the 1/4 (possibly .2 seconds). The real benefit should be in auto-x which is what I'm more focused on now as well as nice daily driving throttle response.
Welcome to the dark side
I've never had good mpg on this car, ever. When I drove it daily I only avg'd 18-20 (prior to many existing mods)...
Avg speed on road trip was 70... front tires @ 35psi, rear 33... no hills or switchbacks... current wheels & tires are very close to weight of OEM 17" setup. I previously tested mpg with 3.7 to 3.3 its maybe 1mpg less... but I do so much spririted street driving in performance ECU map that combined witht he 3.7 my mpg is normally really, really low.
On my way home I will top off tank before I leave and calculate the actual fwy mpg (I'm guessing it will be nearly 20, which is as good as this car has ever gotten when driven daily).
Avg speed on road trip was 70... front tires @ 35psi, rear 33... no hills or switchbacks... current wheels & tires are very close to weight of OEM 17" setup. I previously tested mpg with 3.7 to 3.3 its maybe 1mpg less... but I do so much spririted street driving in performance ECU map that combined witht he 3.7 my mpg is normally really, really low.
On my way home I will top off tank before I leave and calculate the actual fwy mpg (I'm guessing it will be nearly 20, which is as good as this car has ever gotten when driven daily).
Avg mpg = 21.3
If I could have stayed on CC for the remaining 50 miles of fwy (or at least 30 miles) I'm sure I would be 22+
This is the best my car has ever got (that I can remember)... and with my current mods I think its the best the car will do.
FWIW.
true but funny*Note to all - see, at least I dont want the guy to hurt himself
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 28
From: Vegas
Ya, its 81 pounds with no fluid inside. It's heavy, but I guess I'm just really strong. LOL. Wasn't that big of a deal for me. I was kinda holding the Diff as I pulled it out under the car (on jackstands). Its heavy though.
How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 28
From: Vegas
Ok, I did drive my car past 90 MPH, coasted to about 83 and went to set the cruise control - NO GO. So, cruise control function will only remain if you don't go past the designated threshhold which seems to hold true ouf about 86-87 MPH.
If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
Ya, its 81 pounds with no fluid inside. It's heavy, but I guess I'm just really strong. LOL. Wasn't that big of a deal for me. I was kinda holding the Diff as I pulled it out under the car (on jackstands). Its heavy though.
How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
The yard wants around $300 for it.
If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
Ya, its 81 pounds with no fluid inside. It's heavy, but I guess I'm just really strong. LOL. Wasn't that big of a deal for me. I was kinda holding the Diff as I pulled it out under the car (on jackstands). Its heavy though.
How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
The yard wants around $300 for it.
If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
Ok, I did drive my car past 90 MPH, coasted to about 83 and went to set the cruise control - NO GO. So, cruise control function will only remain if you don't go past the designated threshhold which seems to hold true ouf about 86-87 MPH.
If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 28
From: Vegas
I work out on a fairly regular basis and use 75lb dumbbells on the bench, but they're a lot easier to handle than some odd shaped hunk of metal. Like OC pointed out, my concern is about snaking it into the trunk. I'll probably take some heavy wool blankets to protect the bumper.
The yard wants around $300 for it.
Have you tried yelling at it?
The yard wants around $300 for it.
Have you tried yelling at it?
Are you going to be removing the unit off the other car yourself, or just picking it up and placing it in the trunk? Its really not that heavy. You can carry it by the 2 differential mount/bushing areas and just hoist it into your trunk. Its probably only like 12"x18"x24" and I'm probably over-estimating the size.
What is your idea...mind sharing it?
Programming a microcontroller to tweak the output from the VSS to "lie" to the ECM/TCM... kinda like how a piggyback works.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,684
Likes: 28
From: Vegas
If you do that, I think you will need to wire a switch on it so that you can turn it off. Several different things run off those speed sensor inputs (gauges, traction control, etc..)