Drivetrain Questions and info regarding transmissions, clutches, etc.

RPM's at 80 MPH

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  #241  
Old 12-31-2009, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
Well, you guys have convinced me to do the 3.5/vlsd swap. I hope my CC works like Toll's too, even though my G will no longer be the long distance family hauler after March when we get rid of the wife's 98 Legacy GT wagon and get a newer, far more plush late model Outback Limited. I'll admit, I have argued in the past that the 3.5 swap doesn't make much difference in the 1/4 mile as tested with my 23.5" tall drag radials (makes the effective ratio a 3.55). My car was fractionally slower ET wise and about 1.5mph slower due to the early 4th gear shift. But the 3.5 gear WITH the 23.5 DRs would bring the ratio up to a 3.75. After doing some math and factoring in the extended rev limiter of the TS ECU flash, the car could be a bit quicker in the 1/4 (possibly .2 seconds). The real benefit should be in auto-x which is what I'm more focused on now as well as nice daily driving throttle response.
I think you will find the bold blue to be the most gratifying benefit... if you've driven the 07+ sedan (which I think you have), the shorter gears gives you much more of that immediate acceleration - which is nice on streets as well as track.

Welcome to the dark side
 
  #242  
Old 12-31-2009, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by OCG35
I've never had good mpg on this car, ever. When I drove it daily I only avg'd 18-20 (prior to many existing mods)...

Avg speed on road trip was 70... front tires @ 35psi, rear 33... no hills or switchbacks... current wheels & tires are very close to weight of OEM 17" setup. I previously tested mpg with 3.7 to 3.3 its maybe 1mpg less... but I do so much spririted street driving in performance ECU map that combined witht he 3.7 my mpg is normally really, really low.

On my way home I will top off tank before I leave and calculate the actual fwy mpg (I'm guessing it will be nearly 20, which is as good as this car has ever gotten when driven daily).
okay - 55° most of the way home - tires still 35psi front, 33psi rear - full tank gas - about 200 extra pounds ttl (from luggage and passenger) - CC 73mph for most of 224 miles... then hit traffic for about 50 miles (30-65mph)... and about 15 miles street. 85-90% flat straight hwy/fwy.

Avg mpg = 21.3

If I could have stayed on CC for the remaining 50 miles of fwy (or at least 30 miles) I'm sure I would be 22+

This is the best my car has ever got (that I can remember)... and with my current mods I think its the best the car will do.

FWIW.
 
  #243  
Old 12-31-2009, 11:10 PM
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Whoa you actually drove your car Mike.
 
  #244  
Old 01-01-2010, 03:41 PM
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So I found a 3.5 vlsd diff here at a salvage yard. You guys think I'll be able to pick it up and put it in my trunk? I do lift on a regular basis. Isn't it like 60-70lbs?
 
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CandlestickPark
Whoa you actually drove your car Mike.
LOL - that was funny true but funny
 
  #246  
Old 01-01-2010, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
So I found a 3.5 vlsd diff here at a salvage yard. You guys think I'll be able to pick it up and put it in my trunk? I do lift on a regular basis. Isn't it like 60-70lbs?
I've never lifted one... but be careful setting it int he trunk, you'll have to bend over to set it down (rather than squat) and with lots of weight that can cause back injury... but I'm sure its not too heavy to lift/hold.

*Note to all - see, at least I dont want the guy to hurt himself
 
  #247  
Old 01-01-2010, 04:14 PM
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You should be able to lift it, but yes its very heavy. It took all of my strength, given my 125lb frame, to lift the rear diff and set it down carefully.
 
  #248  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:09 PM
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Ya, its 81 pounds with no fluid inside. It's heavy, but I guess I'm just really strong. LOL. Wasn't that big of a deal for me. I was kinda holding the Diff as I pulled it out under the car (on jackstands). Its heavy though.

How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
 
  #249  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:13 PM
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Ok, I did drive my car past 90 MPH, coasted to about 83 and went to set the cruise control - NO GO. So, cruise control function will only remain if you don't go past the designated threshhold which seems to hold true ouf about 86-87 MPH.

If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
 
  #250  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley
Ya, its 81 pounds with no fluid inside. It's heavy, but I guess I'm just really strong. LOL. Wasn't that big of a deal for me. I was kinda holding the Diff as I pulled it out under the car (on jackstands). Its heavy though.

How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
I work out on a fairly regular basis and use 75lb dumbbells on the bench, but they're a lot easier to handle than some odd shaped hunk of metal. Like OC pointed out, my concern is about snaking it into the trunk. I'll probably take some heavy wool blankets to protect the bumper.

The yard wants around $300 for it.

If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
Have you tried yelling at it?
 
  #251  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley
Ya, its 81 pounds with no fluid inside. It's heavy, but I guess I'm just really strong. LOL. Wasn't that big of a deal for me. I was kinda holding the Diff as I pulled it out under the car (on jackstands). Its heavy though.

How much is the salvage yard gonna sell it to you for?
I work out on a fairly regular basis and use 75lb dumbbells on the bench, but they're a lot easier to handle than some odd shaped hunk of metal. Like OC pointed out, my concern is about snaking it into the trunk. I'll probably take some heavy wool blankets to protect the bumper.

The yard wants around $300 for it.

If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
Have you tried yelling at it?
 
  #252  
Old 01-01-2010, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley
Ok, I did drive my car past 90 MPH, coasted to about 83 and went to set the cruise control - NO GO. So, cruise control function will only remain if you don't go past the designated threshhold which seems to hold true ouf about 86-87 MPH.

If my theory holds true and the ECU determines CC based off of MPH, GEAR, and RPM how can we tell the ECU to make it keep working??
I have an idea, but I need a car to test on. I'll test it on mine once I get the swap, but that all depends on when my cousin gets ready for a new rear end for the Z.
 
  #253  
Old 01-02-2010, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveB
I work out on a fairly regular basis and use 75lb dumbbells on the bench, but they're a lot easier to handle than some odd shaped hunk of metal. Like OC pointed out, my concern is about snaking it into the trunk. I'll probably take some heavy wool blankets to protect the bumper.


The yard wants around $300 for it.



Have you tried yelling at it?
I can try yelling at it...I know I yelled enough when I hit my hand while removing the stock one.

Are you going to be removing the unit off the other car yourself, or just picking it up and placing it in the trunk? Its really not that heavy. You can carry it by the 2 differential mount/bushing areas and just hoist it into your trunk. Its probably only like 12"x18"x24" and I'm probably over-estimating the size.



Originally Posted by nfsp1
I have an idea, but I need a car to test on. I'll test it on mine once I get the swap, but that all depends on when my cousin gets ready for a new rear end for the Z.
What is your idea...mind sharing it?
 
  #254  
Old 01-02-2010, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley
What is your idea...mind sharing it?
Programming a microcontroller to tweak the output from the VSS to "lie" to the ECM/TCM... kinda like how a piggyback works.
 
  #255  
Old 01-03-2010, 01:03 AM
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If you do that, I think you will need to wire a switch on it so that you can turn it off. Several different things run off those speed sensor inputs (gauges, traction control, etc..)
 


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