Clicking axle fixed!
#136
Indeed I'm getting this click now too- one of a few different noises eminating from the back end... though I suspect the other is a result of a wobbly goblin in a coilover shock tube.
Seems more pronounced before the vehicle has warmed up- or been moving. Guess that sort of makes sense judging by the nature of the problem.
Naturally, I'm expecting some flak from the stealership for being on coilovers among other things (dropped, spacers, etc) ... With that being said- by the time I pay to get the stuff I need to engineer a way to get that axle to come out (I'm a hammer type guy... except when it comes to fender rolling!) I might as well have saved the time and just had them do it. I have lots of Nissan dealerships to go to if the local Infiniti falls flat. My last experience wasn't horrible- but it could definitely go either way on this one.
500 bucks would be ridiculous- but 60 bucks? Even 200? I'd drop that in no time if I knew someone who knew what they were doing could do it properly. And there's the rub... Properly.
Must admit, it looks almost easy enough to do- but getting that axle out... and screwing it up costing 2000?! Dayum. No thanks. Hello 60 bucks!
Seems more pronounced before the vehicle has warmed up- or been moving. Guess that sort of makes sense judging by the nature of the problem.
Naturally, I'm expecting some flak from the stealership for being on coilovers among other things (dropped, spacers, etc) ... With that being said- by the time I pay to get the stuff I need to engineer a way to get that axle to come out (I'm a hammer type guy... except when it comes to fender rolling!) I might as well have saved the time and just had them do it. I have lots of Nissan dealerships to go to if the local Infiniti falls flat. My last experience wasn't horrible- but it could definitely go either way on this one.
500 bucks would be ridiculous- but 60 bucks? Even 200? I'd drop that in no time if I knew someone who knew what they were doing could do it properly. And there's the rub... Properly.
Must admit, it looks almost easy enough to do- but getting that axle out... and screwing it up costing 2000?! Dayum. No thanks. Hello 60 bucks!
#137
I decided that having a turbo'd G would equal nothing but headaches for me if I went to the dealer with the annoying axle click problem. I went ahead and read the TSB fix for this problem and decided to do it myself.
http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi.../ITB05-002.htm
Anyhow I went to autozone and bought some 3 dollar white lithium grease. I chose this stuff because I have used it in high heat areas in the engine bay and its held up well. Now I didnt replace the cotter pin or the 6 bolts/nuts/washers on the back side of the axle. I took them off and they seemed to be in very good shape and high quality as well as the cotter pin.
I undid the large front bolt located behind the wheel and removed the brake caliper which is only held on by 2 19mm bolts. I marked the hub and threaded shaft just as the TSB says. I then went in underneath and took out the other 6 bolts and the axle slid right out. I took a wire brush and cleaned the area as shown in the TSB and then applied a generous amount of lithium grease to the area. I then made sure I rotated the axle 180 degrees from the original install point and slid it back in. Tightened up all the bolts in the reverse order I took them off, put the caliper back on, and then the wheel. I went out for a drive and I was all grins from ear to ear!!! Its fixed.... For now at least. Basically guys, if you have the motor skills to unscrew bolts you can do this fix, its very easy and only takes an hour.
http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi.../ITB05-002.htm
Anyhow I went to autozone and bought some 3 dollar white lithium grease. I chose this stuff because I have used it in high heat areas in the engine bay and its held up well. Now I didnt replace the cotter pin or the 6 bolts/nuts/washers on the back side of the axle. I took them off and they seemed to be in very good shape and high quality as well as the cotter pin.
I undid the large front bolt located behind the wheel and removed the brake caliper which is only held on by 2 19mm bolts. I marked the hub and threaded shaft just as the TSB says. I then went in underneath and took out the other 6 bolts and the axle slid right out. I took a wire brush and cleaned the area as shown in the TSB and then applied a generous amount of lithium grease to the area. I then made sure I rotated the axle 180 degrees from the original install point and slid it back in. Tightened up all the bolts in the reverse order I took them off, put the caliper back on, and then the wheel. I went out for a drive and I was all grins from ear to ear!!! Its fixed.... For now at least. Basically guys, if you have the motor skills to unscrew bolts you can do this fix, its very easy and only takes an hour.
Nice to see you are still around. i'm still rolling on those Tanabes i got from you too
#138
So just bought a 03 g35 with a clicking coming from the rear axle, it only happens when you load the rear diff, mainly on shifting gears, starts and stops, or just releasing the gas and applying it again fairly quickly.
For me, the noise was comparable to dropping two square plastic dowels onto concrete, ha thats about as best I can describe it. Hard to hear with the window up, easy to hear with the window down.
I read the TSB, pulled the axles, cleaned and greased them, with CV boot grease from partsource, flipped them 180 offset and re-installed. Voila! problem fixed. Now I doubt the grease has much to do with the problem. I blame shotty hubs or axle splines that wear out and cause play. Turning them 180 degrees is likely what set them good again as the wear pattern was essentially reset, or at least slightly re-newed. I just can't believe this is a TSB, infiniti sounds like a bunch of retards for suggesting this when they really should have replaced the axles and hubs out of warranty.
For anyone curious, its a 32mm socket for the axle nut, and 14mm flat wrench and socket to get the axles apart from the diff. Rotors and calipers definitely don't have to come off.
p.s. For a reference, this job took about 45 min for me. Spent most time jacking up the car and pulling the wheels/breaking axle nuts free. Also, grab a new cotter pin from any auto parts store, I used a fairly big one.
For me, the noise was comparable to dropping two square plastic dowels onto concrete, ha thats about as best I can describe it. Hard to hear with the window up, easy to hear with the window down.
I read the TSB, pulled the axles, cleaned and greased them, with CV boot grease from partsource, flipped them 180 offset and re-installed. Voila! problem fixed. Now I doubt the grease has much to do with the problem. I blame shotty hubs or axle splines that wear out and cause play. Turning them 180 degrees is likely what set them good again as the wear pattern was essentially reset, or at least slightly re-newed. I just can't believe this is a TSB, infiniti sounds like a bunch of retards for suggesting this when they really should have replaced the axles and hubs out of warranty.
For anyone curious, its a 32mm socket for the axle nut, and 14mm flat wrench and socket to get the axles apart from the diff. Rotors and calipers definitely don't have to come off.
p.s. For a reference, this job took about 45 min for me. Spent most time jacking up the car and pulling the wheels/breaking axle nuts free. Also, grab a new cotter pin from any auto parts store, I used a fairly big one.
Last edited by Hybird; 09-09-2010 at 12:07 AM.
#139
^ You were having the exact same issue I am with the click only occuring when shifting gears or when accelerating rapidly from a stop. I think some people are getting a constant click while driving, but I may be wrong.
I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer since I still have my powertrain warranty left, but I'm not sure they will cover it since the noise isn't constant. I'd almost rather do it myself anyway because I'm not a fan of leaving my car with those techs.
I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer since I still have my powertrain warranty left, but I'm not sure they will cover it since the noise isn't constant. I'd almost rather do it myself anyway because I'm not a fan of leaving my car with those techs.
#140
#141
I did this recently, the way I did it only takes about 20 minutes max on each side.
-Lift the car and secure the rear with jack stands
-Remove both left/right wheels
-Remove cotter pin on both sides
-Remove 32MM bolt holding on axle (likely have to either hit it with an impact or pull the e-brake tightly
-Knock the axle end with a deablow rubber hammer
Now you can pull the axle out far enough from the splines without removing completely, if you look behind the brake assembly you can see where the splines go into the hub. All I did was take some anti-seize and brush it on the splines, push the axle in and out a few times, rotate, repeat.
Creak free for a month + now and pretty easy to fix yourself.
-Lift the car and secure the rear with jack stands
-Remove both left/right wheels
-Remove cotter pin on both sides
-Remove 32MM bolt holding on axle (likely have to either hit it with an impact or pull the e-brake tightly
-Knock the axle end with a deablow rubber hammer
Now you can pull the axle out far enough from the splines without removing completely, if you look behind the brake assembly you can see where the splines go into the hub. All I did was take some anti-seize and brush it on the splines, push the axle in and out a few times, rotate, repeat.
Creak free for a month + now and pretty easy to fix yourself.
#142
I did this recently, the way I did it only takes about 20 minutes max on each side.
-Lift the car and secure the rear with jack stands
-Remove both left/right wheels
-Remove cotter pin on both sides
-Remove 32MM bolt holding on axle (likely have to either hit it with an impact or pull the e-brake tightly
-Knock the axle end with a deablow rubber hammer
Now you can pull the axle out far enough from the splines without removing completely, if you look behind the brake assembly you can see where the splines go into the hub. All I did was take some anti-seize and brush it on the splines, push the axle in and out a few times, rotate, repeat.
Creak free for a month + now and pretty easy to fix yourself.
-Lift the car and secure the rear with jack stands
-Remove both left/right wheels
-Remove cotter pin on both sides
-Remove 32MM bolt holding on axle (likely have to either hit it with an impact or pull the e-brake tightly
-Knock the axle end with a deablow rubber hammer
Now you can pull the axle out far enough from the splines without removing completely, if you look behind the brake assembly you can see where the splines go into the hub. All I did was take some anti-seize and brush it on the splines, push the axle in and out a few times, rotate, repeat.
Creak free for a month + now and pretty easy to fix yourself.
If so, this would definitely save a lot of time. The most diffiult part is breaking loose the 6 bolts at the rear differential and then maneuvering the axle out.
I'm not sure if anybody (including Nissan) has determined if it's the added grease, retorquing of the axle bolt, or turning the axle 180 degrees that actually stops the clicking.
#145
Oh well, whatever. All I know is that it's not clicking any more.
#147
You fell of the face of the earth. Yes, it does. Dealer covers it for 4 years or 60k miles. Whichever comes first.
#148