Proceed at your own risk. I am not responsible for any problems you may encounter following this procedure. Use common sense and do not attempt if you are not comfortable with this procedure.

With that said, this is not difficult for the mechanically inclined and I enjoyed performing this mod.

Parts List
UR Crank Pulley
Belts
Tools
19mm - 6 sided impact socket
10mm socket
14mm socket
Breaker bar
Cheater (if required)
Pulley Puller (if required)
Jack
Jack Stands
Anti-seize
(3) 2.5" Hose Clamps

 

Remove engine cover and air intake chamber

Check both belts for tension. This will be helpful at the end when you install the new belts.

Jack the drivers’ side up and use a jack stand (use common sense, set the parking brake and block the rear wheels)

Loosen both idler pulleys center bolts (pic 4 & 5). Do not remove!

 

Remove the bottom panel by removing a bunch of screws holding this on the car.

Loosen the idler pulley adjusting bolts (the really long ones) to allow the belts to loosen and then remove both belts.

 

Lower the car back down almost all the way. The wheels should be on the ground solid. I left the car up just a bit to squeeze under the car easier.

Remove the crank bolt by using a breaker bar set at the 5 o-clock position as described in other threads. This was very easy. I set everything in position, double checked and then turn the key for a split second. I went back and checked the bolt and it was still tight. I had to do it a second time, so I set it all up again, double checked and cranked a little longer (less than a second) and the bolt was free.

I was lucky and the pulley wiggled right off. I didn’t need the puller.

 

The original pulley weighs about 6 lbs, the UR about 1 lbs (used a bathroom scale)

 

I was also lucky as the UR pulley wiggled on. I didn’t need a hammer and block of wood. I put a very small amount of anti-seize on the edge of the UR pulley bore to help it slide on. I could tell it bottomed out by moving the pulley away from the engine and “slamming” it back listening for the sound of the impact.

A little anti-seize on the crank bolt and it screwed in very easy.

 

Next I connect (3) 2.5” hose clamps together and connected one to the pulley through the holes and the other end around the stabilizer bar using a rag to protect the paint.

Then I used the breaker bar and a rubber mallet and whacked the nut until it moved at least 60 degrees.

 

Next install the new belts by reversing the procedure for removal.

Start the car and make sure everything is working ok, adjust as required.

Install the bottom panel, engine cover and air chamber back on and you’re done!

 

How long did this take? i asked a shop if they could install it and they said it could take quite a long time if the "rad" has to be removed...does it?

 

Are u getting any different sounds now that u have installed the pulley... I've heard that they make whinning noises...

 

I did not remove the radiator. This procedure can be used to skip this step. Many feel this technique is high risk and would rather use an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt which requires removing radiator. Now for an MT, you can use a pry bar on the flywheel. There are other threads that discuss this technique.

If I remember correctly (its been over 2 years since I did this mod) it didn't take more than 2-3 hours and that's with taking pictures. I take my time though and work slow and steady. It will take longer if you remove the radiator.

 

I have had the UR crank pulley installed for over 2 years with no whining. The belts squealed 1 time and after tightening the belts, no more squeal.

 

Do you think a shop would probably remove the radiator? i was told it would take around 4 hrs if they have to remove the radiator...

 

You will have to ask the shop. My guess would be "yes".

 

they said they do not know for sure if they will or wont have to remove the radiator so they gave me 2 quotes. if they have to remove the radiator i wouldn't want to get it installed....