Contact this guy. He's been pretty reliable on maxima.org.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=480065

You could try GI Joe's if you have one. But be prepaired to pay full tilt retail. Amsoil is not a chain store sold oil. You usually have to go to an authorized dealer. you can probably find on in you local yellow pages. But don't know what pricing they will give. Hence the link above.

 

If you have a hard time considering the exact product of a company (the third party contractor) that produced the oil filter for Nissan as OEM or OEM equivalent than I just can’t do anything on my part to help you understand the true discussion we are all having here. And your last statement is comical and made me laughed so hard. “You don’t back up any of your arguments with any actual proof, while I did.” I am picturing you all upset and about to cry as you are typing away. Anyway…where is your proof again? I read it twice and found no scientific/technical proof with anything you wrote. I can only speculate that you consider your incomplete generalization of filter design, and your half-a$$ statement about how easy it would be to reproduce an OEM oil filter as “proof.” I love all the “proofs” you have provided. Many thanks smart guy and have a nice day.

 

So what are the key design aspects of an oil filter? I can tell you its pressure difference across the filter area, and the oil bypass springrate, and the drainback valve. Pressure difference determined by the filter area, and filter void volum. The lower the pressure difference the better at the same efficiency. This is achieved either increasing the filter area ie more pleats, or using a better filter matting material with smaller fibers. The spring determines the PSI at which the oil bypasses the clog. The springrate is easy to determine, measure the amount of force required to deflect it from its resting position a certain distance. Finally, the drainback valve, its a necessity on a filter, and one made of silicone is better than rubber because of its inherently higher chemical/heat resistance. A slight increase in oil pressure through the system due to less pressure drop across the filter is better for the engine, this will lead to an increase in circulation, FACT. Thus, the aftermarket filters with more surface area and better filter material are superior to stock. Proof. The oem filter uses carboard endcaps, carboard fragments in hot oil and adds contaminates to the oil, FACT. Aftermarket filters use metal endcaps which don't fragment, thus, they are superior to OEM. Proof. You have yet to prove that aftermarket filters don't meet OEM specs, yet you state it like the truth.

 

Mobil 1 and PureONE PL14610 (the slightly larger one) every 5K.

conveniently enough, i have one sitting in the closet so all i had to do was open the door to read the part number

 

I remember when M1 came out back in the late 70's, it was like water. Clear as water and thin as water. Now it looks like any other oil out there, sept maybe Royal Purple.

 

I've been using Mobil 1 for 125K miles on my previous car without any issues
and 14K miles with my G. The only filter I use is K&N and the oil gets changed
every 2K miles or every 90 days which ever comes first.......overkill you say,
but that's what I do!

 

how many quart of oil do we need? i thought only 5

 

Five's all you need but don't forget to change the filter!

 

5 quarts? I heard people say 6.5 quart!!!!

 

it's 5 quarts

 

5 quarts exactly with filter change.

Amsoil sells the oil on their website actually. Not cheap tho.

 

Mobil 1 15k oil with mobil 1 filter change every 10,000 miles. I am FI too and have'nt had any issues so far. I check the oil frequently and level or color hasnt changed much. The key is the filter though; you need the mobil 1 filter if you plan on having long intervals between changes. Its not cheap too, like 15 bux.

 

The M1 filter doesn't last any longer than any other filter, if you go on an extended change interval, you still have to change the filter every 3-4k.

 

The Funny thing is that even though they say that you can run Amsoil for like 7000 miles, I found that the oil would burn a little even at around 4000 miles. Just because they advertise that you can run on the same oil for 10K miles doesn't mean that you should. I just think running the pure synthetic is going to be easier on the wear and tear of your engine in the long run. But it does sting to drop around $60 in parts everytime you have to go get an oil change!

 

The oil is good for that long if you get routine analysis done, the things you have to do are change the filter at 3-4k still, and top off the oil since you'll likely burn some. It doesn't take much longer to drain the oil, than just changing the filter anyways, so I use Dino and change every 3-4k