cleaned throttle body, installed z-tube, now check engine light :(
#1
cleaned throttle body, installed z-tube, now check engine light :(
I installed a z-tube into my car today, and in the process decided to clean the throttle body whiles it was still installed on the car (didn't remove it because I didn't have a new gasket available).
I started the up after cleaning the tb and installing the Z tube, and drove it for a few mins, at which point the CEL came on. Now the idle is much higher than before, and after the car is running for a little while the idle goes way up, and bounces off the 1000rpms mark. I also now have delay in the throttle response and when I get off the throttle, there is a bit of a jerk.
What could cause this? Has the MAF gone bad? Throttle Body screwed? Please help.
Thanks
I started the up after cleaning the tb and installing the Z tube, and drove it for a few mins, at which point the CEL came on. Now the idle is much higher than before, and after the car is running for a little while the idle goes way up, and bounces off the 1000rpms mark. I also now have delay in the throttle response and when I get off the throttle, there is a bit of a jerk.
What could cause this? Has the MAF gone bad? Throttle Body screwed? Please help.
Thanks
#6
Did you touch the butterfly in the throttle body? If that gets moved it has a tendency to throw off the throttle body. You can try to do a throttle body reset... in the FSM it's called Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning", and "Idle Air Volume Learning". If you can't reset it, the dealer can for a small service fee.
Both the throttle body and MAF are pretty sensitive, and from my experience I recommend not messing with em, cleaning or otherwise.
Both the throttle body and MAF are pretty sensitive, and from my experience I recommend not messing with em, cleaning or otherwise.
#7
MAF is the right way.
I did touch the butterfly, I actually moved it completely to get at the carbon buildup and such around it. This is the first time I have cleaned a car with drive-by-wire, I knew I was taking a risk. I will definitely try the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, Accelerator Pedal Resealed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning.
I did touch the butterfly, I actually moved it completely to get at the carbon buildup and such around it. This is the first time I have cleaned a car with drive-by-wire, I knew I was taking a risk. I will definitely try the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, Accelerator Pedal Resealed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning.
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#8
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Try the relearn procedures, it should be on motordyne's website...Also try doing a battery disconnect, you can turn your car off and pump your brakes til it goes
stiff or you can do a 12hr. disconnect...If those don't work take it to the dealer to get it reset...The exact same thing happened to me after I cleaned my TB.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/127892-throttle-body-experience.html
stiff or you can do a 12hr. disconnect...If those don't work take it to the dealer to get it reset...The exact same thing happened to me after I cleaned my TB.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/127892-throttle-body-experience.html
#9
Originally Posted by bull3t
Try the relearn procedures, it should be on motordyne's website...Also try doing a battery disconnect, you can turn your car off and pump your brakes til it goes
stiff or you can do a 12hr. disconnect...If those don't work take it to the dealer to get it reset...The exact same thing happened to me after I cleaned my TB.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127892
stiff or you can do a 12hr. disconnect...If those don't work take it to the dealer to get it reset...The exact same thing happened to me after I cleaned my TB.
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127892
#10
Originally Posted by zackt69
Did you touch the butterfly in the throttle body? If that gets moved it has a tendency to throw off the throttle body. You can try to do a throttle body reset... in the FSM it's called Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning", and "Idle Air Volume Learning". If you can't reset it, the dealer can for a small service fee.
Both the throttle body and MAF are pretty sensitive, and from my experience I recommend not messing with em, cleaning or otherwise.
Both the throttle body and MAF are pretty sensitive, and from my experience I recommend not messing with em, cleaning or otherwise.
#11
The idle is completely thrown off now. I disconnected the battery for 12 hrs to reset the ECU, because the other method with the ignition key turn procedure doesn't work for me. I cannot get the MIL to blink.
Anyhow the idle is off, it stays high between gear shifts, bounces from 1000 to 1200rpms, etc. Gas mileage is suffering huge. I wish I could get this fixed but the re-learn procedures aren't working for me.
Does anyone know if "OFF" in the re-learn procedures means to remove the key from the ignition, or just turn it all the way back to the position where you remove it?
Anyhow the idle is off, it stays high between gear shifts, bounces from 1000 to 1200rpms, etc. Gas mileage is suffering huge. I wish I could get this fixed but the re-learn procedures aren't working for me.
Does anyone know if "OFF" in the re-learn procedures means to remove the key from the ignition, or just turn it all the way back to the position where you remove it?
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Originally Posted by kingrukus
The idle is completely thrown off now. I disconnected the battery for 12 hrs to reset the ECU, because the other method with the ignition key turn procedure doesn't work for me. I cannot get the MIL to blink.
Anyhow the idle is off, it stays high between gear shifts, bounces from 1000 to 1200rpms, etc. Gas mileage is suffering huge. I wish I could get this fixed but the re-learn procedures aren't working for me.
Does anyone know if "OFF" in the re-learn procedures means to remove the key from the ignition, or just turn it all the way back to the position where you remove it?
Anyhow the idle is off, it stays high between gear shifts, bounces from 1000 to 1200rpms, etc. Gas mileage is suffering huge. I wish I could get this fixed but the re-learn procedures aren't working for me.
Does anyone know if "OFF" in the re-learn procedures means to remove the key from the ignition, or just turn it all the way back to the position where you remove it?
check engine light would come back on and it would go back to the 1K idle...So I took it to the dealer and they fixed it...As long as your car is under
warranty they'll fix it for free just don't tell them you messed with it.
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