How to reach this goal? 340RWHP and >310LB-FT TQ .
#46
Originally Posted by civic4982
back to the topic:
Used Vortech = $3500 or so
Self install = 3 days tops with hand tools making it a 2 weeks total if necessary or missing parts etc.
Tune = $600-$1000
I assume a boost gauge, and A/F meter are must haves for this setup and I think I can get away from that for anywhere between $500-600.
Is this a legitimate grocery list?
Used Vortech = $3500 or so
Self install = 3 days tops with hand tools making it a 2 weeks total if necessary or missing parts etc.
Tune = $600-$1000
I assume a boost gauge, and A/F meter are must haves for this setup and I think I can get away from that for anywhere between $500-600.
Is this a legitimate grocery list?
#47
#49
you may want to bump up the money on how much your going to spend on your tuning after. Since you already showed an aversion from getting a reflash your going to have to pay for for the ecu and then on top of that tuning. depending on who does it could make the price go one way or another, common rates ive seen were $160 per hour of tuning or a blanket $500 regardless of time. Depending on your ECU of choice you could rach anywhere from 1300-3000 tuned.
#52
#54
$4000-5000 and your goal 340whp/310wtq? You've got two options if you want to do it right.
1) Nitrous. 340whp and 310wtq would be cake. Just make damn sure you've got the right kind of tuning and fuel management or else you'll wreck that motor quite easily. The VQ35 is fragile. Pure and simple. The VQ30 was bullet proof and can make significantly more power without any internal work. The VQ35 on the other hand has all sorts of gremlins that begin to pop up once you go past 300whp and/or increase the rev limiter a few hundred rpms either on the DE or Rev-Up.
2) Sell the car and buy something else.
If you want that power all the time, then you're going to need forced induction and I wouldn't waste a minute screwing around with the Vortech/ATI blower. Both of those units are nothing but trouble. ATI is not 5 miles from my house and us Kansas City guys know damn well to steer clear of them. Their units are just not reliable. Seals, gears, and pullies constantly munched as well as the units leaks. Same goes for the Vortech units. The same problems plus both the units are imfamous for snapping belts.
Like OCG35 said, you're looking at least twice the money if you want legit forced induction which is turbo power. Turbos add a ton more power under the curve compared to a Vortech/ATI SC. But with any forced induction setup, you've got to pay to play and with the VQ35, it takes a lot to play unless you want that motor to be a big worthless pile of metal after a month of FI.
1) Nitrous. 340whp and 310wtq would be cake. Just make damn sure you've got the right kind of tuning and fuel management or else you'll wreck that motor quite easily. The VQ35 is fragile. Pure and simple. The VQ30 was bullet proof and can make significantly more power without any internal work. The VQ35 on the other hand has all sorts of gremlins that begin to pop up once you go past 300whp and/or increase the rev limiter a few hundred rpms either on the DE or Rev-Up.
2) Sell the car and buy something else.
If you want that power all the time, then you're going to need forced induction and I wouldn't waste a minute screwing around with the Vortech/ATI blower. Both of those units are nothing but trouble. ATI is not 5 miles from my house and us Kansas City guys know damn well to steer clear of them. Their units are just not reliable. Seals, gears, and pullies constantly munched as well as the units leaks. Same goes for the Vortech units. The same problems plus both the units are imfamous for snapping belts.
Like OCG35 said, you're looking at least twice the money if you want legit forced induction which is turbo power. Turbos add a ton more power under the curve compared to a Vortech/ATI SC. But with any forced induction setup, you've got to pay to play and with the VQ35, it takes a lot to play unless you want that motor to be a big worthless pile of metal after a month of FI.
#55
Originally Posted by Andrei
You could get there NA.
Get JWT cams, electric water pump, Cosworth twin plenum, thinner head gaskets.
Get JWT cams, electric water pump, Cosworth twin plenum, thinner head gaskets.
#56
Blue bottle in the trunk, or turbo or Vortech. Stock block + bolt-ons will never add up. Save another $1500 or so and get the Turbonetics Single system, thats what I did. Stock exhaust and intake, literally no other bolt on items and it makes 340 whp @ 8.5 PSI and can be driven every day (and it is by the way). Check it out (link below). It is no monster by any stretch of the imagination but it is a blast to drive.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/G35-Turbonetics_170950.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/G35-Turbonetics_170950.htm
#57
Save another $3000 lol....You could look into getting a stroker kit and going NA....Personally I think everybody is too quick to go FI....More respect for all engine...yes it's not as much horsepower...but you personally said that you don't want that mucht more....Change that 3.5 into a 4.1....Displacement....Then you have a fully rebuilt engine with high compression and you are good to go....After that, if you still feel like FI, then your engine will already be done, get the compression changed and you will be able to push out a crazy amount of horsepower....More money in the long run...but it's all preference...It's something I'm thinking about doing...Takes money and time.....The cheapest kit I've seen so far is 4700....Obv. if you can get a hook up with a mechanic...you might be able to stay closer to your budget...but like they all say, in the end, you'll want FI....But do your research....Also something I have found out...if you're trying to mod the G and your budget is tight and you don't want to wait the time it takes to get the money....With all do respect, you should have bought a Civic....ya know? You have to take your time with these, and if you do go FI, build your engine right!!!! Good luck!!! Keep us posted...
#58
#59
Originally Posted by x_matic2008
....Also something I have found out...if you're trying to mod the G and your budget is tight and you don't want to wait the time it takes to get the money....With all do respect, you should have bought a Civic....ya know?
Again with these honda civic comments. My suspicion is that way too many of you were ricers in another life but sorry I'm not interested in an economy car being my toy.
Like has been said MULTIPLE times in this thread my goals and my budget are set. The question to you is how to achieve it. Sure anyone can come in here and say "hey, spend xxxxx more dollars and it'll be GREAT!"
For the rest of you who are financially responsible you'll understand that pouring wasted dollars into modifying a car knowing that at the end of the day it will, at BEST get you back 25% of what you've dumped into it, if not actually taking a loss for the modifications/labor then you'll realize why I have decided to set a clear budget on this project.
It's easy to see this happen all over our marketplace where people end up having to part things out left and right just to make a few bucks back since no one would come CLOSE to paying what they want for their modified cars. I'd rather not be in that predicament. Any money I'm pouring into this car is money I've decided to throw away for my own personal enjoyment. Therefore I'm not willing to throw away more than $5K.
Thanks.
Last edited by civic4982; 07-26-2008 at 12:24 PM.