Restore has a ton of iron in it. If the cam sensor is a magnet it makes Sence.

99% of the additives do not work

 

They might work on old engines, like 70's V8's, that is what this restore stuff was originally designed for, old engines that needed something in order to even run close to right. Don't think it's meant to go in new engines at all. I've always stayed away from it with everything. Most you'd ever need would be seafoam

 

Restorer is great for restoring compression on an extremely worn engine. It's a great product for engines on their last legs and you want to squeeze a couple months out of it.

But on any engine that is running normally, you would want to stay away from those.

If you suspect clogging, just put some seafoam into the engine. It should clean up the clogging and the cam sensor.

 

I happened upon this old post last night after experiencing the very same symptoms when adding Engine Restore to my 2011 G37 convertible. Awful shuddering, blinking Service Engine Soon light. Not fun.

First thing I did was a second oil change and new filter to get the stuff out of the system. Also added Seafoam to clean out anything left. Symptoms persisted.

Called the Engine Restore people this morning and Liz (who has been there 30 years) was very helpful. All that was necessary was a reset of the ECM, steps for which I've provided below. Once I did this, the engine runs normally.

I hope this helps someone else out there who might run across this post.

==========
STEPS FOR RESETTING ECM (PROVIDED BY ENGINE RESTORE)
1) Disconnect "NEGATIVE ( - )" battery cable from the battery.
2) Turn "ON" lights to drain electricity from capacitors in system.
3) Let sit for at least 30 minutes.
4) Turn "OFF" lights and reconnect battery cable.
5) Start engine and idle in “PARK” while slowly vary throttle positions between IDLE up to 2000 RPM.

If engine is running normal proceed to put car into DRIVE, then drive slowly while varying RPM for a few minutes. Once engine is running normally, then proceed to drive car.
==========

 

Stuff like Restore is just terrible to use in anything with variable valve timing, it can clog the small passages in the solenoids.

 

One of the few types of product I've never even tried to use. I figured it was just some kind of snake oil.

 

This same thing is happening to me at the moment. My car currently is undriveable. I have a code reader that can reset the code errors is that the same thing as resetting ECU? I get P300, P071, 0021 error codes. Very upset and troubled. I just recently changed the oil and added this Engine Restore to my Acura MDX and G37 at the same time. No issues with the Acura only the Infiniti G37. Awaiting this pandemic to level off so I can take care of this situation. I guess I could try the ECU reset procedure but I might have suspect battery that might need to be replaced. I had to jump start twice in the last 2 weeks and it currently has 12.25 volts so I thought i was good on that but maybe it needs to be replaced as well.

Any responses and or help would be great. The car was running great up until this point!

Lenny

 

Since you have two codes related to the cam phasing system which is controlled by OIL PRESSURE and you recently added stuff to the oil that screws with oil pressure I would drain the oil and give it a fresh lube.

P0300 is a random misfire code, pull and inspect your plugs, replace anything that's worn/corroded/etc.

 

First of all, thank you for responding. I had to get a new battery and just installed. I heard that a new battery would help. I put new iridium spark plugs and wires 3 months ago, so I think plugs should be fine. I reset the error codes and started up and no codes back. I just started it up and drove it and it drove better now. Slightly rough but no loss of power like before yesterday ( dead battery once started bucking misfire, intake camshaft error and running lean error.) I still need to drain/flush the oil which I hope will help. But the good news no error codes so far...just doesn’t feel 100%. I will start up and drive again and asses the situation. Maybe I am burning the engine restore through now. This is a learning experience and I will never use this crap ever again.

Lenny



QUOTE=cleric670;7187164]Since you have two codes related to the cam phasing system which is controlled by OIL PRESSURE and you recently added stuff to the oil that screws with oil pressure I would drain the oil and give it a fresh lube.

P0300 is a random misfire code, pull and inspect your plugs, replace anything that's worn/corroded/etc.[/QUOTE]

 

Yeah I definitely don't recommend; it on these newer engines that use oil pressure for cam actuation. You should still pull the plugs and inspect them though, that will tell you a lot about ACTUAL cylinder conditions.

 

Is the car still doing fine? How far did you drive before the change?