Replacing the spark plug well seals in the valve covers
#16
some of the pics I had seen before I did the seals on mine, the baffle separated from the valve cover. I thought mine would do the same but, they didn't. I even tried to pull them apart to see if something was just stuck. They didn't separate.
The second valve cover that I did; I actually held it up in the air and drilled "up" so that the majority of the shaving would just fall to the floor. I wouldn't say its messier...either way would be about as messy. just that it the baffles do come out of the valve cover its easier to clean everything. without them coming out, you just have to watch to not get shaving behind the baffle. I then wiped the obvious shavings out and blew air all around the baffles...haven't had any issues.
R&D says you "only have to drill deep enough to cut through the baffles"...I hit the metal lining inside the factory o-ring on every one. That was my stopping depth. Those o-rings were no good anyway so, no harm done. No need to worry about how deep to drill.
You can be the first (other than me) to get one of these bushings if you want. I'll make them cheap.
I'll post pics later to show what I did. have to resize them, first.
The second valve cover that I did; I actually held it up in the air and drilled "up" so that the majority of the shaving would just fall to the floor. I wouldn't say its messier...either way would be about as messy. just that it the baffles do come out of the valve cover its easier to clean everything. without them coming out, you just have to watch to not get shaving behind the baffle. I then wiped the obvious shavings out and blew air all around the baffles...haven't had any issues.
R&D says you "only have to drill deep enough to cut through the baffles"...I hit the metal lining inside the factory o-ring on every one. That was my stopping depth. Those o-rings were no good anyway so, no harm done. No need to worry about how deep to drill.
You can be the first (other than me) to get one of these bushings if you want. I'll make them cheap.
I'll post pics later to show what I did. have to resize them, first.
The following users liked this post:
Blue Dream (06-09-2011)
#17
Ok that makes more sense. I saw some other posts with the baffles removed, but I think you literally have to work to get them off and most likely end up breaking them to remove them.
PM me with a price and if you could provide a pic so I can see how to use it? Unless it's stupidly simple.
PM me with a price and if you could provide a pic so I can see how to use it? Unless it's stupidly simple.
#18
Great so far, I may not pull the plugs till my next oil change. I couldn't be happier with the way the car is running right now!
#19
Hi guys,
I just bought a G35 04 w/ 120K. Afterward, i began to notice the previous owner did not do anyyyyy maintenance on the car, but was in beautiful condition in and out. Shes was a old lady. blahh..
I changed AT fluid, routers, brakes, cabin filter and while changing spark plugs I noticed one plug (driver side, middle valve) was very easy to unscrew. It had a bit on oil on the plug.
I cleaned the valve and replaced with new plug. Im a but worried, because I know the seals need to be replaced.
Is it safe for me to be driving like this? Im generally a DIY guy, but I never attempted a job like this. Im deciding on doing the work myself, but What do think a mechanic would charge to replace the seals? I will check the valve again next week, just to see if any more oil has leaked.
Other than this mechanical problem, its running great. Its a really FUN car to drive.
Thanks all.
I just bought a G35 04 w/ 120K. Afterward, i began to notice the previous owner did not do anyyyyy maintenance on the car, but was in beautiful condition in and out. Shes was a old lady. blahh..
I changed AT fluid, routers, brakes, cabin filter and while changing spark plugs I noticed one plug (driver side, middle valve) was very easy to unscrew. It had a bit on oil on the plug.
I cleaned the valve and replaced with new plug. Im a but worried, because I know the seals need to be replaced.
Is it safe for me to be driving like this? Im generally a DIY guy, but I never attempted a job like this. Im deciding on doing the work myself, but What do think a mechanic would charge to replace the seals? I will check the valve again next week, just to see if any more oil has leaked.
Other than this mechanical problem, its running great. Its a really FUN car to drive.
Thanks all.
#21
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
#23
I asked about the oring because of the prices you posted. $60 of SIX ORINGS? That's nutz. Even if they were Viton (tm) (up to 400 degF), the cost of the rings is only pennies each. If they are of a common size (even metric), not proprietary, you can buy them at most any "Seal and Gasket" shop for less than a dollar each. You would just need to size them. The only elastomer that would be more expencive would be Aflas (tm) or Kalrez (tm). Both of those will handle up to 500 degrees.
All those elastomers and many other were invented by DuPont.
All those elastomers and many other were invented by DuPont.
It's those greedy, self-serving, die hard Republicans, you know... thinking poor people owe them ****.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1958_1962.html
Last edited by Andrei; 08-27-2011 at 12:49 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Andrei:
onthe3rdday (08-27-2011),
redpearl99 (01-16-2012)
#24
Registered User
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#26
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
I can get o-rings that range in size of a pimple on your azz to big enough to go around a fat mans belly. They come in Buna-N (nitrile rubber 180degF), Viton (a DuPont elastomer for high temp 400dF), Aflas (chemical resistance and high temp) to Kalrez (very exotic), and durometers of 50 to 90 (hardness). The first two cost from fractions of a penny each (in bulk) to maybe a dollar or two. The others are used for specialized applications and can cost up to a hundred dollars each. If it's round and has a round crossecton, it's a ****ing o-ring, if it's round and has a square crossection, it's a seal (different category). So, no it's still a rip off.
And don't tell me I don't know about elastomers. I deal with them every day.
And don't tell me I don't know about elastomers. I deal with them every day.
Last edited by Texasscout; 08-28-2011 at 01:47 PM.
#28
#30
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