Unplug the negative one.

 

Quick reset by disconnecting the negative and depressing brake pedal several times

 

I did try both methods. Nothing worked. I tried the disconnect, left it over night and I tried the pedal method. Got the the timing down perfect (light blinked and all) but no change.

 

I found an aftermarket MAF for cheap but I've been told that I must buy a OEM Infiniti one. Is this so and why? Aren't aftermarket parts made to OEM specs?

 

Sorry bro... it was a long shot, but one worth taking before moving on to parts and labor.

OEM or not, the MAF is one piece with no moving parts. It's either going to work, or it's not. If the MAF you are looking at says it works for the year G35 you drive, it's built to spec.

Take a moment and read this just to get more familiar with the part and it's purpose, LINK. Being well informed will help you draw your own conclusions and guide your decisions.

 

Replaced the MAF. Started up at first and idled fine. It would even rev past 2200 RPM as it was not doing it before. VDC light and slip light was off. Did the ECU reset to get the SEL light off because it was still on and now it will start but not rev past 1100 rpms. I can floor it and it feels as if I were not doing anything and VDC and Slip light came back on. Did the whole pedal position thing and still the same.

 

any new codes? you sure you did the ECU reset correctly?

 

where did you buy the MAF from and did you purchase the right one? put your original one in and see if you can get it to rev past 1100 and if so id stick to that one. Or buy an OEM MAF to be on the safe side.

sounds like your car went in to limp mode.