DIY : Oil Cooler O-ring Replacement V35
In regards to the confusion about the O-ring part numbers and some OEM ones not fitting - the actual part number for the older style (smaller and orange colored) O-rings is B1304-43U00. This part has been superseded by the 21304-JA11A which is black and too big to make a good seal on the older G's. The new part automatically gets ordered when you go ask for the oil cooler O-ring at the dealership, so you'd need to specify this outdated part number.
The Fel-Pro replacement on rockauto (same as the amazon link a few posts above) is the only aftermarker one I've found that fits for those with the older and smaller O-rings.
For reference - I have an 03 sedan and got stuck ordering multiple replacements (both OEM and aftermarket) before realizing that this was the case.
Further confirmation of this can be found on Infiniti's part lookup here: parts.infinitiusa.com
Sorry to anyone getting notifications on a years-old thread. I hope this info helps any of you guys still working on G's!
The Fel-Pro replacement on rockauto (same as the amazon link a few posts above) is the only aftermarker one I've found that fits for those with the older and smaller O-rings.
For reference - I have an 03 sedan and got stuck ordering multiple replacements (both OEM and aftermarket) before realizing that this was the case.
Further confirmation of this can be found on Infiniti's part lookup here: parts.infinitiusa.com
Sorry to anyone getting notifications on a years-old thread. I hope this info helps any of you guys still working on G's!
As common as this repair is, it's hard to believe Nissan or Infiniti dealers will have the old part in stock. At the time Nissan superseded the old part, as inexpensive as they are, they probably tossed the old ones in the garbage. Even if you order the old p/n, they'll give you the right or current one. Now, aftermarket suppliers may have copied the old design and are still supplying it and the thing is, it will work for a while, possibly quite a while. I replaced mine but it lasted close to 100k miles and 10 years.
Just replaced this gasket on my '08 G35X this afternoon. Couple of comments....
- Member above asked if the gasket referenced in the OP (21304-JA11A) is the same for RWD and AWD and can confirm that it is. I know it was from 3 years ago but hopefully this helps someone who runs across this in the future.
- This may not apply to all years or maybe it's only applicable to AWD models, but it is not necessary to drain the oil from the pan. I measured (and replaced) what was "lost" when removing the filter as well as the stud and it was just under 200ml (or 0.2 quarts).
I recently replaced my oil pan gasket due to a bad leak and was shocked to see oil still dripping ( pretty bad leak ) , upon further investigation saw that the oil came from behind the oil cooler . Did some searching on here and saw this was a common issue with our cars , so I immediately began to search for a DIY and none came up, I called Cerritos Infiniti and they charged $275 for the work , so I decided to do it myself and make a DIY thread .
Tools :
pliers
ratchet 1/2 drive
14mm socket
22mm deep socket
( container ) something to drain the oil / coolant in
paper towels
degreaser
Q-tips
Parts : O-ring part # 21304-JA11A ( paid $16 )
Step # 1
Drain oil into container from drain bolt with 14mm socket ( pictured below )
Step # 2
Remove oil filter ( pic below )
Step # 3
Remove connector bolt with 22mm deep socket ( pic below )
Step # 4
Remove lower coolant hose from oil cooler using pliers and let coolant drain into container
Then remove upper hose connected to oil cooler ( oil cooler is free at this point )
Step # 5
Clean oil cooler ( mine had a lot of grime and build up )
remove old o-ring
( how it looks cleaned up )
Step # 6
Replace O-ring lubricate top of O-ring with oil
Step # 7
Clean mating surface on engine ( where oil cooler bolts on )
NOT PICTURED
Step # 8
Slowly center oil cooler with connecting bolt inside and begin to screw it in
Angled pipe goes to top coolant hose and straight shorter pipe to lower coolant hose
I hand tightened first bolt first, secured hoses in original spots and then used pliers
to pinch clamps on to original location
Torque connector bolt to spec 36ft/lbs
Step # 9
Screw oil filter back on
Double check your work
Should look like this
Step # 10
Add oil / coolant and check for leaks
Tools :
pliers
ratchet 1/2 drive
14mm socket
22mm deep socket
( container ) something to drain the oil / coolant in
paper towels
degreaser
Q-tips
Parts : O-ring part # 21304-JA11A ( paid $16 )
Step # 1
Drain oil into container from drain bolt with 14mm socket ( pictured below )
Step # 2
Remove oil filter ( pic below )
Step # 3
Remove connector bolt with 22mm deep socket ( pic below )
Step # 4
Remove lower coolant hose from oil cooler using pliers and let coolant drain into container
Then remove upper hose connected to oil cooler ( oil cooler is free at this point )
Step # 5
Clean oil cooler ( mine had a lot of grime and build up )
remove old o-ring
( how it looks cleaned up )
Step # 6
Replace O-ring lubricate top of O-ring with oil
Step # 7
Clean mating surface on engine ( where oil cooler bolts on )
NOT PICTURED
Step # 8
Slowly center oil cooler with connecting bolt inside and begin to screw it in
Angled pipe goes to top coolant hose and straight shorter pipe to lower coolant hose
I hand tightened first bolt first, secured hoses in original spots and then used pliers
to pinch clamps on to original location
Torque connector bolt to spec 36ft/lbs
Step # 9
Screw oil filter back on
Double check your work
Should look like this
Step # 10
Add oil / coolant and check for leaks
It does indicate draining the cooling system, but also indicates coolant hoses can be pinched in lieu of draining cooling system.
Question: Has anyone replaced the O-ring without draining the oil?
As it turns out the car was ready for an oil change, so I drained the oil anyway. Picked up a Fel-Pro #72493 from my local NAPA. It was obvious the Fel-Pro part was taller in cross-section, so I measured both of them. The old one was 0.0154" / 3.91mm tall, while the Fel-Pro part is 0.195" / 4.95mm tall. The old one was still plenty pliable, while the Fel-Pro part appeared to be firmer / higher durometer. Between the extra thickness and firmness, I suspect this will seal well and fix the problem.
Replaced it without removing the coolant lines - I just pulled it far enough out to remove the old ring and insert the new one. Tightened it up to 36 ft lbs and voila, all fixed.
p.s. I'm planning on re-torquing the Connector Bolt the next time I change oil.
Replaced it without removing the coolant lines - I just pulled it far enough out to remove the old ring and insert the new one. Tightened it up to 36 ft lbs and voila, all fixed.
p.s. I'm planning on re-torquing the Connector Bolt the next time I change oil.
Last edited by cycleguy55; Apr 6, 2021 at 11:21 AM.
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