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Idle Issue. Is the "Stealership" trying to rob me? Please Help!

Old Jun 15, 2015 | 05:23 PM
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Idle Issue. Is the "Stealership" trying to rob me? Please Help!

So not too long ago i started experiencing an idle issue with my 05 6mt. It was idling very low, approximate 650-500 rpms. When the car was not in gear and pushed the clutch pedal in... the RPMs would drop even further causing the car to stall out. Also coming to a stop in traffic... any time i touched the clutch at low RPMs, the rpms would floor and stall the car out. I did quite a bit of reading on here, and heard ppl having similar problems with a dirty MAF Sensor and/or Throttle Body. So i went and picked up some MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner and had at it.

After cleaning both the MAF sensor and Throttle Body, VWOLLA...the car idled just fine. No more low idling... no more stalling. Everything seemed good. OCCASIONALLY the car would tend to idle higher than normal (approx. 1500-2000 rpms) but later dop back to where it was suppose to be. I figured this just had something to do with the "Idle Position Reset" procedure i needed to do (but could never nail), seeing i had touched the throttle body. Two weeks goes by of running okay, and then it starts acting up again.

This time, its the same deal. The car idles low... push clutch pedal in and it dies. Car drives fine, only when i stop abruptly and take car out of gear.... the thing stalls out. Figured, hmmm let me try cleaning the MAF sensor again... Did this and it just made it WORSE. Now starts up fine, idles fine... and then RPMs drop very low when car warms up. Now it drops so low i almost hear a rattle or something going in and out by the motor.

My normal mechanic couldn't figure it out, so i took the risk and brought it to local Nissan/Infiniti Dealer. He takes car for a drive and says "i dont feel anything, the car didnt stall". Told him to drive a bit longer and it took him all of 5 min to call me back and tell me my timing chain had "jumped" and needed to be replaced, which the recommendation came to replace the entire freakin motor! To my surprise... im shocked... Without going any further... has anyone every experienced anything like this? Does this sound like correct diagnostics? Just seems a little odd that this failure isnt consistent, which i would imagine...if it was the timing chain... it would be.

I'm no mechanic, but any help i could get from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Even my reg mech said the diag was a little weird seeing its not consistent. I'd hate to dump thousands, when its a stupid sensor or something the stealership missed. Help Help Help!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 06:21 PM
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Your symptoms are consistent with timing chain jumping. It would be a very consistent problem though. But it isn't very easy to check. Search for a DIY on removing timing chain cover.

Removing the valve cover will let you see the upper chain alignment marks. There are 3 painted links on the chain that line up with marks on the intake, exhaust and idler sprockets. If you crank the engine by hand with a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt enough times, the painted links will eventually fall over the alignment marks on the gears. If the chain has jumped, you will never get all 3 aligned at the same time. You will have to disengage the tensioner and realign the chain.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 12:20 PM
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Thanks WhosUrBuddiee.

Is this just an adjustment to the timing chain, or will the timing chain in of itself need to be replaced? I've attached a video showing the condition below. (it doesnt stall when im recording, but you get the drift.)


I also go the report back from Nissan and it stated that "the exhaust cam was -50 degrees and -13 degrees at idle when should be 0" and "improper cam position in relation to crank causing air fuel issues" He suggest a cat may be clogged. Not sure if this relates to any of the issues i am experiencing or not.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:38 PM
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I've been wondering for awhile if the cam and crank position sensors degrade over time. They're obviously a big problem with these cars, but electronics don't necessarily degrade over time unless there is contamination; they usually just work or they dont. If you plan on keeping the car regardless of its problems, it may be worth changing your cam/crank sensors just to see.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:39 PM
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Do you have an ODB scanner to pull those codes out on your own? Does your work order tell you what codes are on the car?

You can check the CATs with an IR thermometer to see if their running hot. I replaced my timing chain myself about 18 months ago. I find it hard to believe it skipped some teeth and you don't have any engine damage. Did they perform a compression test?

*I only did the chain, because I skipped teeth when trying to turn it by hand to change the water pump. I figured I'd put all new parts in while it was broken down, otherwise everything was still in a good shape. I have an 06 coupe.

There is a cutout you can "try" available from Jim Wolf Technology posted on another thread here. You take the cam covers off and put the cut outs over them at TDC and it will tell you if the timing is off.

I think since you have an MT as well there is an exhaust relearn procedure that needs to be done. I think you can do that only with a Consult 3 (Dealer tool).

Try unplugging your MAF and starting the car. I know a faulty MAF can cause all kinds of problems. Your car will run in limp mode, but if it runs better with the MAF disconnected I'd start with that.

If it is just your timing then you need a compression test done to make sure the internals are still good. Then you just need to reset the chain or put a new one in. It cost me about 500 bucks with OEM parts and a lot of time! If the dealer does it prepare to spend at least 1200 on labor (I was quoted that by Nissan).
 
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by coffeysm
Do you have an ODB scanner to pull those codes out on your own? Does your work order tell you what codes are on the car?

You can check the CATs with an IR thermometer to see if their running hot. I replaced my timing chain myself about 18 months ago. I find it hard to believe it skipped some teeth and you don't have any engine damage. Did they perform a compression test?

*I only did the chain, because I skipped teeth when trying to turn it by hand to change the water pump. I figured I'd put all new parts in while it was broken down, otherwise everything was still in a good shape. I have an 06 coupe.

There is a cutout you can "try" available from Jim Wolf Technology posted on another thread here. You take the cam covers off and put the cut outs over them at TDC and it will tell you if the timing is off.

I think since you have an MT as well there is an exhaust relearn procedure that needs to be done. I think you can do that only with a Consult 3 (Dealer tool).

Try unplugging your MAF and starting the car. I know a faulty MAF can cause all kinds of problems. Your car will run in limp mode, but if it runs better with the MAF disconnected I'd start with that.

If it is just your timing then you need a compression test done to make sure the internals are still good. Then you just need to reset the chain or put a new one in. It cost me about 500 bucks with OEM parts and a lot of time! If the dealer does it prepare to spend at least 1200 on labor (I was quoted that by Nissan).
Thanks for the feedback.

The codes i threw were P1084, P1283, P0507, P0011, and P0021.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 09:11 PM
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The P0011/P0021 can be used by low oil pressure, timing chain jump, faulty cam sensors, or the IVT solenoid. How's your oil level?

P1084 is also a cam sensor, but it's related to the exhaust cam.

The P507 is your idle. I'd try doing the pedal dance it took me about 50 times. Biggest things I learned was all electronics off, steering wheel centered, and once it drops to idle....you need to turn it off and on immediately.

The P1283 is the A/F sensor. Their a PITA, but you can try swapping them to see if the code moves. Check for vacuum leaks also possibly.

How did they verify your exhaust cam was off? Do you have any power loss, how does the car run besides idling?

I'd clean the MAF, pedal dance, check or change/measure your oil see if it's low.

Your car has 4 cam sensors, since it's an MT.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by coffeysm
The P0011/P0021 can be used by low oil pressure, timing chain jump, faulty cam sensors, or the IVT solenoid. How's your oil level?

P1084 is also a cam sensor, but it's related to the exhaust cam.

The P507 is your idle. I'd try doing the pedal dance it took me about 50 times. Biggest things I learned was all electronics off, steering wheel centered, and once it drops to idle....you need to turn it off and on immediately.

The P1283 is the A/F sensor. Their a PITA, but you can try swapping them to see if the code moves. Check for vacuum leaks also possibly.

How did they verify your exhaust cam was off? Do you have any power loss, how does the car run besides idling?

I'd clean the MAF, pedal dance, check or change/measure your oil see if it's low.

Your car has 4 cam sensors, since it's an MT.
My oil level was checked and is fine.

the "pedal dance" i am assuming you are referring to the idle reset procedure" which was impossible for me to do. Plus it doesnt give you any kinda indication whether it worked or not.

As far as exhaust cam, i am not exactly sure how the dealer checks this but they verified this at Nissan. As far as loss of power.... i think i feel like it has. As far as everything else... there is no indication of anything tremendous other than the stalling. I've had to stop slow and leave the car in gear awhile before stopping to prevent it from stalling out.
 
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