When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
had the engine light come up for the past 3 months, got the mechanic out and we connected the computer up and this is what it was telling us, i dont really believe how all 4 of these oxygen sensors can error at the same time, but my mechanic said to ask around on forums and see if someone can help me fix this problem.
That fuse is power for all four O2 sensor heaters, probably blew the fuse. If it pops again when you put a new fuse in the unplug all four sensors, put in a new fuse, plug them in one at a time until you find the sensor that shorted out.
You will need to turn the key to ON to get power on that fuse.
Don't connect/disconnect anything if it has power, good way to fry stuff. You will probably need a few 15 amp fuses.
That fuse is power for all four O2 sensor heaters, probably blew the fuse. If it pops again when you put a new fuse in the unplug all four sensors, put in a new fuse, plug them in one at a time until you find the sensor that shorted out.
You will need to turn the key to ON to get power on that fuse.
Don't connect/disconnect anything if it has power, good way to fry stuff. You will probably need a few 15 amp fuses.
Thanks for everyones reply, cause im from australia im pretty sure it was on the right side of the drivers foot, so i opened the fusebox and just want to confirm if this is the correct fuse box? https://imgur.com/DiNg1Sg
there is also a fuse box below my battery but nothing was labeled 'O2 sensor or 85' - so i went to the driver seat fuse box and the 4th one down on the right, did not have a fuse to start with as i opened it, after putting one in i am still getting the engine light. Is this a good chance that one of the sensors have shorted out?
Thanks for everyones reply, cause im from australia im pretty sure it was on the right side of the drivers foot, so i opened the fusebox and just want to confirm if this is the correct fuse box? https://imgur.com/DiNg1Sg
there is also a fuse box below my battery but nothing was labeled 'O2 sensor or 85' - so i went to the driver seat fuse box and the 4th one down on the right, did not have a fuse to start with as i opened it, after putting one in i am still getting the engine light. Is this a good chance that one of the sensors have shorted out?
Your fuse panel covers should be labeled. If it doesnt say O2 sensors then thats not it. Also, your IPDM as Cleric suggested. It is behind the battery...not in front of it.
Your fuse panel covers should be labeled. If it doesnt say O2 sensors then thats not it. Also, your IPDM as Cleric suggested. It is behind the battery...not in front of it.
hey man thanks for your reply I got to the IPDM, doesn’t look like there’s anything about the O2 sensors, and all fuses are good
Located o2 sensor label on the driver side door cover, had a good 10 amp fuse in it, replaced it with a good 15 amp fuse, still have engine light, wow so annoying lol
EDIT : was looking at the above photo the wrong way, as i had it the right way - the o2 sensor didnt have any fuse in it... i put a 15 amp in and still engine light, (please note the engine light has only been on my car for about a month)
Last edited by eliaswhufc; Jan 23, 2020 at 01:36 AM.
Wow...good thing it actually says O2 on there or u wouldve never found it lol.
I am not 100% sure but some stuff might require the engine light to be cleared with a scanner for it to turn off. I think the ECU might even reset it after its gone through a few cycles and tests good. I would definitely clear it with a scanner to be sure though.
Ok you have an early 2003 sedan I'm guessing. Which uses an ENTIRELY different power supply system, different ECM, different IPDM, different everything. I've never worked on one personally but I'll see what I can find in the FSM for those early models.
Unplug the O2 sensor harness, probe pin 2 the red/black wire, you should have battery voltage with the ignition ON.
Also make sure pin 3 has continuity to ground.
The O2 sensors do get power from Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) fuse 15, verify that fuse actually has power going through it by using a meter on the probe slots on the top of the fuse.
Unplug the O2 sensor harness, probe pin 2 the red/black wire, you should have battery voltage with the ignition ON.
Also make sure pin 3 has continuity to ground.
The O2 sensors do get power from Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) fuse 15, verify that fuse actually has power going through it by using a meter on the probe slots on the top of the fuse.
i have a 2003 coupe, would this apply to that also?
Unplug the O2 sensor harness, probe pin 2 the red/black wire, you should have battery voltage with the ignition ON.
Also make sure pin 3 has continuity to ground.
The O2 sensors do get power from Fuse Block - J/B (cabin fuse box) fuse 15, verify that fuse actually has power going through it by using a meter on the probe slots on the top of the fuse.
sorry man im no too experienced in this type of thing, the last thing i want to do is to have to take this to an auto-electrician and get charged an arm and a leg for it, i appreciate your patience. Im gonna give a go what you have told me to do here, i just need help finding the fuse block you have linked above, would this be the one behind my battery?
If you do end up taking the vehicle in for a diagnostic I would go to Nissan to make sure the proper troubleshooting steps were followed. Typically stuff like this is just a 1 hour diagnostic but the service manager will go over all that with you. You don't need to pay them to REPAIR the issue, just to find out what the issue is.
They use a tool called Consult-II / III that allows for most troubleshooting steps via a computer, it's quick and easy, not readily available to the public, and works fantastic. Probably cost you $125 for a diagnostic.
