Is it normal for one sensor to go bad more than the other? I just replaced this sensor probably 1 1/2 - 2 years ago. Maybe 2 1/2 years ago.

I have yet to change the driver side. And when I order the sensor last time, I bought a set that came with both cam shaft sensors and the crank shaft sensor; but I only replaced the passenger side.

Thanks in advance for your help ladies and gents

gkey

I pulled the TMC code as well as the EMC, before clearing them.

 

I'm betting you didn't use an OEM or Hitachi sensor, aftermarket sensors are definitely prone to early failure (if they work at all). It's widely reported that the VQ engines don't play nice with other sensors.

Use only a Genuine Nissan Parts OEM sensor (beware of eBay sellers that show Genuine sensor at a very low price, they are likely a knockoff), or buy Hitachi sensors. Hitachi was the OEM manufacturer for those sensors so that's typically what I use since the part is cheaper than buying from Nissan.

 

Thanks dude, I’ll keep that in mind

 

So after looking at my ebay account, I actually installed the sensor last June. Here are some pictures of the ebay account, and the numbers on the left side sensor that I didn't use..

Vender on ebay with parts labelled "Nissan Genuine Parts"

Parts from vendor on ebay

Parts from vender on ebay

Parts from vendor on ebay



Along with the numbers on the hitachi I got today (before I install it)


Hitachi parts

Hitachi parts

 

Yep looks like a knockoff, no way you're getting 3 OEM sensors for less than half the cost of a single sensor

Those chinese companies making the knockoffs are VERY good at making them look legitimate. Look where the vendor is from...

 

Yeah, I kinda figured as much.

It was a ‘Fool me once’ type of thing I guess.

Im about to replace my ignition coils. (Which are about $100 each) Would you recommend OEM on those as well? Considering what you said about the sensors not playing well, the coils are the biggest electrician/electronic I could think of on the car.

Other than the ECM/TCM/ etc


edit: I also posted those pics to help someone else down the road when debating on what to use

 

Yeah stick with Hitachi for the coils, they were the OEM manufacturer of those as well. However, unless you are actually having coil issues, or this is a racecar that needs things like this replaced regularly, then I wouldn't worry about replacing them until one fails, then just replacing the faulty one.

Coil packs aren't really a wear item, yes they can get EVERY SO SLIGHTLY LAZY over time and you might only be getting 14k volts instead of 15k volts but they're not actually a wear item that needs maintenance.

Get some contact cleaner (make sure the can says safe for plastic), remove the well tube boot (long rubber skinny part that goes to the spark plug) then take that spring inside it and spray it down with the cleaner, also spray the contact point on the coil pack, put it all back together, good as new.

If you have corrosion on any of the contact springs you can replace just that coil, that's really the only part that wears out unless the entire coil has a thermal meltdown.

If the coil pack boot is sitting in a bunch of oil because of leaking valve covers then yes the boots might need to be replaced, there's a lot of variables to that though but misfiring from oil saturation tends to cook the coil pack.

 

Cool, I’ll wait for one to fail then. It has 130k on it, and Im from the time when you changed plugs and plug wires.

as for the contact cleaner, I have a **** ton of cans for the side work I do.

But, I guess I’ll change the plugs since you mentioned the coils. Any advice on the best plugs since I have ear?

thanks again for all the advice

 

I'd just stick with the OEM plugs, if you want you can upgrade to the NGK Irridium plugs since the OEM ones are platinum plugs.

NGK PLFR5A-11 is the stock plugs for the VQ35DE.

Torque spark plug to 15 ft/lbs if using anti-seize (strongly recommended)

Torque coil pack bolt to 62 INCH lbs.

Make sure to label your coil pack wires if they don't already have numbers on the wire harness, easy to get them mixed up for a couple cylinders.