Hey guys I have an infiniti G35X 2008. Recently I went to the gym and came out to the car dead, so I thought. After trying to jump start it and nothing happening I quickly realized it was something more. The battery, connections and all the cable + Fuses were good. Next step was replacing the key Fob Battery. Key Fob did indeed lock and unlock the door and the headlights turned on and off. Still no start, I shook this box that was called the Steering Lock Module and was able to get the car home. It was a pain in the ***** to get this box out and to put another one back in was even harder. I matched the numbers with the same module and put it into the car. First start up perfectly fine, then out of no where after I put all the covers back up no start. I tried hammering and disconnecting the battery but nothing. I've read that sometimes the key fob has to be reprogramed. But I am super lost on what the next step should be here. The part I put in was working on the car it was on before and it worked upon first start up attempt. I'm thinking about cutting the Brown wire in the forms everyone talks about even though I could pull the fuse. I'm just a lost of words and I'm not exactly sure what I should do. Is it the Module still or do i need my key reprogramed. A heads up! I did not see the steering wheel Icon on the dash this time like how I did when I orginally got out of the gym and it would not start. The dash says push in brake and click push to start along with the yellow key flashing. Should I spend the $250 and get the fob reprogramed and It'll be fine or what should I do??? I'm stressing.....

 

So you don't hear the starter engage at all correct? You don't hear a loud CLICK coming from the engine bay when you press the start button?

Try holding your fob ON the start button to see if the short range RFID chip will pick up.

Can you still lock/unlock the car with the fob?

 

There is a clicking noise from the engine bay, It's the fuse that clicks when it's trying to turn on. I did some research and found out that autozone has a kit that you have to reprogram the key aftering installing this module. Do you think that I would have to reprogram my key too. That's the current point I'm at right now. Update : you have to pay $550 for the steering lock module and it includes the programming tool. Here's the video .

 

Are you sure the clicking isn't the starter solenoid? Sounds like you might just have a dead battery.

 

Yes I’m sure the battery is good. As said above the battery, fuses and system is all functional. The car started after moving the steering Lock module. However I installed another one and the car seems like it’s not recognizing the key fob now. I’m going to uninstall the new part and put the old system in it. Then start it and just cut the wire while the steering wheel is unlocked. This is all since I can’t find any other ways to fix it besides cutting the wire or paying $150-350 for a reprogram

 

Yeah but if you hear the starter relay clicking inside the IPDM near the battery then the circuit is probably closing meaning either the battery is dead (never assume it's actually charged, put a charger on it to verify) or the starter is dead.

That start relay in the IPDM won't click if you're not getting the proper input through the BCM.

There are TWO starter relays, one is internal to the IPDM and controlled by the BCM, this one will close when you press the start button, the second one which is the replaceable relay is controlled by the ECM. This one closes if the BCM recognizes the key fob and sends the NATS authentication to the ECM.

Personally I would start by just swapping the starter relay with the one next to it, I can't remember which relay it is but it should tell on the IPDM cover. See if the engine starts. If it doesn't then swap the relays back but leave the start relay out so you can see if it has power on two different pins when you press the starter. If it has power on the control side then the BCM is sending the signal, if it has power on the contactor side then the internal relay is functioning.

If you DO have power on both sides of the relay then test for power at the starter solenoid wire on the starter itself, if you have power while cranking (you will need a second person for this) then your starter is cooked.

I definitely wouldn't go chopping up the lock module though, troubleshoot the stuff first to see where the issue lies.

Also see if it will start in neutral instead of park, it should recognize if you weren't and flash a warning on the dash but this rules out a bad PNP signal from the TCM.

If this problem happens intermittently when the engine is hot then it's almost definitely the starter, heat soaked solenoid doesn't want to work.

Since the starter won't engage AT ALL I strongly doubt it's anything to do with your fob or that locking mechanism. I'm pretty sure the engine will still crank with a fob the car doesn't recognize, it just won't open the fuel injectors or deliver spark. Maybe @treacherous can verify this though since he has a V36 also.

 

I've never tried to start my car with a disassociated FOB but remember it has push button ignition too. The type you hold FOB up to to start button if the FOB battery has died.

 

Hey guys so if anyone has this problem in the future let me recommend this! If you can shake the steering wheel lock module and the car starts. Don't replace it unless you are willing to spend the $400-1,000. The replacing of it requires the key to be reprogrammed. I installed a used one pulled from a g37, same model number as the old module. Thing is it requires a key reprogramming which locksmiths want $250-$350, autozone sells one for $135. However to avoid this, just start the car and shake the module or hit it with hammer until it starts. Once started cut the BROWN Wire, next to the black and yellow. This is the wire for the module motor and will not throw any codes. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT YOU CUT THE WIRE WHILE THE WHEEL IS UNLOCKED IF YOU ARE EXPERCING ISSUES WITH THE STEERING LOCK MODULE. My car threw a steering wheel and brake on the mini Red part of the cluster. This helped me find out that once I replaced the part the key wasn't recognized. I put the old module back in and cut the wire, you can also pull the fuse but they took this steering module out of the newer cars because of how many issues it was causing. Hope I saved someone the 4 day headache I had trying to fix this thing. Appreciate it for all the comments about what else to check but all the other parts were good hence why the car started right away after the old programmed Lock Module went back into the car.

 

it was the lock module. You can tell if its the lock module when you shake it and then the car starts. There was a steering wheel light and brake light where it'd show push brake and click push to start on the cluster. I mentioned this above and this is a clear indication that it's a lock module issue. Problem is fixed and car drives like a dream since I've cut the wire.

 

Good to know, I didn't realize it used a different lock module on the V35 compared to the V36, I always figured it was just the start **** moving from the steering column to the dash.

Looks like the lock unit can also be mechanically operated with the physical key on the V35 (the one hidden inside the back of the fob), so if it's stuck you SHOULD be able to bypass it with the physical key. At least that's what the FSM has listed in section BL - Body/Locks.

I'm curious what wire you actually cut, the lock module has 4 wires, yellow, blue/yellow stripe, blue/orange stripe, green/red stripe. I don't see a brown wire anywhere on the schematic for either the early or later V35 iKey variations?