Hi all - this is my first post.

I've found (I think) a way to quickly reset the ECU and restore "aggressive" transmission performance, without pulling the battery or losing the radio settings:

1. Pull both fuses marked "ENG CONT/INJ" (there is a 15A under the hood, in the fusebox near the battery, and a 10A in the driver-side interior fusebox - pull both).

2. Wait 3 min, crank the engine briefly (it won't start), wait another 3 min.

3. Put both fuses back in.

That's it - it will now start, the ECU seems to have been reset to the "default" agressive transmission setting (hooray!), and the radio presets have not been lost.

It may be that only one fuse matters, or that cranking doesn't matter, or that just a moment of disconnection is enough - I haven't had time to try these yet.

So far I've only tried this once (as described, on my 2003.0 G35 Sedan - automatic) and it worked for me. I'm about to go on vacation for a couple of weeks, but maybe someone else can experiment and find out these things.

When I get back I'll play some more - eventually I hope to install a simple reset button off the fusebox, or set it up so it resets automatically every time the ignition goes off.

--Dave L.

 

Thanks for posting bro. There seems to be a few trials and tricks come out lately for resetting the ECU/Trans . I've made a note and will try this also.
I take it you noticed something in the 'butt dyno' after doing this? It's a little hard to notice anything unless the ECU/Tranny hasn't been reset for some time.
Hopefully between us all, we can come up with a simple step by step to reset the ECU. What we need is for a few peeps to try this and give their impressions.
If it is a matter of fuses, that idea of a reset button is a great idea.
In the meantime, I'll mess with it some more, and prolly some others will for our impressions. I'll also search my ESM for more info.
Happy and safe holidays, log in when you return........
For clarity, I'll call this procedure "ECU reset #2"
<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

Just a quick note:

Although I'm note totally sure - I think you only need to pull the interior fuse. Reason being: I disconnected the interior fuse as recomended but when I tried to remove the one in the battery compartment, I couldn't do it that quickly. Since I was on my out out (and didn't have much time to mess with it)I decided to crank the engine as is with the interior fuse out.

When I put the fuse back in and started the car, I noticed the at/check light blink off and on like 5 times. I have never noticed this before. Now, everytime I start the car, at/check light comes on for a quick second then goes out.

It seemed that when the light was blinking it was syncing up or something. The car did fell a little different afterwerds but I'm not that sure. Just wanted to let eevryone know of my findings.

 

Thanks for the feedback bro. That's what we need is more experimentation and feedback.
It's so hard to notice any change with the 'seat dyno'. Only way to have any hope is to wait a few weeks and let it learn soft shifting then do a reset. That's basically where I'm at right now.
It's quite possible that only the interior fuse need be removed and replaced.
BTW, my 'AT CHECK' warning light comes on for 2 seconds when the key is turned to the on position. This is normal, but if it blinks, this is abnormal. Not sure if pulling fuses would cause the blinking. Possibly. I'll watch mine next time I reset.
Once again thanks for the feedback. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

No, that was just somethig I noticed after pulling the fuse. After the second start, the blinking went away and the AT Checks is as normal. I believe that pulling the fuse caused the blinking and possibly a reset. Who the heck knows.

 

Why does the transmission starts to shift smoother after ECU reset?