Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

G35 Greddy TT Install + Fully built Short Block + Kinetix Plenum

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  #16  
Old 07-05-2007, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Sinister350GT
ARP head studs; ARP Main studs; Cometic Head gaskets are going into this build.
As for how its going to get to the road? For now it will be a dyno queen.
My wife will kill me if I spend any more this year.
However. There will be 19X10.5 on the rear and 8.5 in the front for wheels.
Lowering 1" with springs. Sway bars and traction bars.
Thats about all I have planned so far.
What do you suggest?
Might want to do coilovers and not waste your time with springs. Also have you thought about some type of LSD and what about the clutch? Another thing to consider is sticking with 18" wheels in the rear so you can run drag radials. Everything looks like you have an awsome car coming.
 
  #17  
Old 07-05-2007, 01:54 PM
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I have a XTD clutch and alumium fly wheel going. Not the best but it should be good for a couple of months
 
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Old 07-06-2007, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Sinister350GT
ARP head studs; ARP Main studs; Cometic Head gaskets are going into this build.
Forget the ARP head studs. They don't provide enough clamping force and you will get headlift at 13psi and higher. Go with L19's or 1/2" head studs. The 1/2" will be more expensive because of the machining that needs to be done. The L19's are a better option for those that have already built their motor with the regular ARP head studs cause they are a direct replacement and don't require machining. Also forget the Cometic head gasket. HKS has a better gasket available.
 
  #19  
Old 07-06-2007, 12:26 PM
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^+1 all solid suggestions.

Gman, what's v3.0? Methanol?
 
  #20  
Old 07-06-2007, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Forget the ARP head studs. They don't provide enough clamping force and you will get headlift at 13psi and higher. Go with L19's or 1/2" head studs. The 1/2" will be more expensive because of the machining that needs to be done. The L19's are a better option for those that have already built their motor with the regular ARP head studs cause they are a direct replacement and don't require machining. Also forget the Cometic head gasket. HKS has a better gasket available.
Actually Jorge, Sam @ GTM now recommends their new 11mm head studs instead of the L-19s because of potential corrosive issues and the 1/2" studs for extra cost of re-tapping for them. I ended up going with 11mm in my build. Here's a quote regarding the 11mm by Sam @ GTM

Originally Posted by Sam@GTM
Head/Main Studs
Additionally, here we’d like to introduce new 11mm diameter (stock size) head studs made to our GTM specs by ARP® out of ARP2000® material. The “regular” ARP head studs are made out of ARP 8740 material, which, though superior to stock head bolts, do not offer the clamping load of the ARP2000 material.
 
  #21  
Old 07-06-2007, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianlG35C
Actually Jorge, Sam @ GTM now recommends their new 11mm head studs instead of the L-19s because of potential corrosive issues and the 1/2" studs for extra cost of re-tapping for them. I ended up going with 11mm in my build. Here's a quote regarding the 11mm by Sam @ GTM
Good point. Let me clarify what I should have posted. GTM now makes an equivalent to an L19 stud, but with a different material that isn't corrosive. I don't know if they are the same 11m studs you are refereing to. When I spoke with Sam he referred to them as ARP 2000. Maybe they are the same?
 
  #22  
Old 07-06-2007, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
^+1 all solid suggestions.

Gman, what's v3.0? Methanol?

^^^Maybe, but for sure sure GTM's equivalent to L19's, HKS EVC 6 boost controller, HKS head gasket, HKS Navigator, AAM Stage II fuel system, GTM Stage III turbo cams, Tein Flex with EDFC, and new max tune for 93 octane and one for race gas. I am to GTM in 12 days.
 
  #23  
Old 07-06-2007, 01:00 PM
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Sharif has pointed out before that the chance for properly installed L19s to come into contact with moisture should be zero.

And the L19s are stronger than the ARP2000.

Directly from the ARP web site (click)
 
  #24  
Old 07-06-2007, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Sharif has pointed out before that the chance for properly installed L19s to come into contact with moisture should be zero.

And the L19s are stronger than the ARP2000.

Directly from the ARP web site (click)
Sam and Sharif have been known to disagree from time to time, but since Sam is the one working on my car I'll go with what he recommends. Could it be the ARP 2000 although not as strong the L19's provide enough clamping force to prevent headlift without the possibility of corroding like L19's which is why Sam is recommending them???
 

Last edited by Gman2004; 07-06-2007 at 02:06 PM.
  #25  
Old 07-06-2007, 01:09 PM
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Even though the head studs should never see water vapor or coolant (unless something bad is already happening), running a waterless coolant (Evans) seems like another good option if there is a concern. Sharif is actually going to use Evans for heat control (with every other part of the coolant system kept stock) and we'll see how well it works.
 
  #26  
Old 07-06-2007, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Good point. Let me clarify what I should have posted. GTM now makes an equivalent to an L19 stud, but with a different material that isn't corrosive. I don't know if they are the same 11m studs you are refereing to. When I spoke with Sam he referred to them as ARP 2000. Maybe they are the same?
Yes they are the same 11mm studs I'm referring to, GTM's. Sam said his 11mm studs can provide almost as much clamping force as the L-19s, without any threat of corrosion. His point was that it was a possibility in the long term and why risk it. He also said there should be no more of a risk of head lift with GTM's 11mm.
 
  #27  
Old 07-06-2007, 02:11 PM
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Ok, Brian, you prompted me to do more research (gonna have to stay late at work today now!). Anyway here is what I found on ARP2000. Looks like it is not immune to the same issues as L19 and requires similar care even if it a "hybrid":

ARP2000®: An exclusive, hybrid-alloy developed to deliver superior strength and better fatigue properties. While 8740 and ARP2000 share similar characteristics – ARP2000 is capable of achieving clamp loads in the 215,000-220,000 psi range. ARP2000 is used widely in short track and drag racing as an up-grade from 8740 chrome moly in both steel and aluminum rods. Stress corrosion and hydrogen embrittlement are typically not a problem, providing care is taken during installation.

L19: This is a premium steel that is processed to deliver superior strength and fatigue properties. L19 is a very high strength material compared to 8740 and ARP2000 and is capable of delivering clamp loads in the 230,000-260,000 psi range. It is primarily used in short track and drag racing applications where inertia loads exceed the clamping capability of ARP2000. Like most high strength, quench and temper steels – L19 requires special care during manufacturing to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. This material is easily contaminated and subject to stress corrosion. It must be kept well-oiled and not exposed to moisture.
 
  #28  
Old 07-06-2007, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Ok, Brian, you prompted me to do more research (gonna have to stay late at work today now!). Anyway here is what I found on ARP2000. Looks like it is not immune to the same issues as L19 and requires similar care even if it a "hybrid":
Sorry man, hope you finally left. All I can tell you is that Sam was adamant about it, that he would not put the L-19s on his car. You should call him for a better explanation. I just didn't want to take any chances based on his reluctance to use L-19s.
 
  #29  
Old 07-06-2007, 04:54 PM
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Gotta go with what your builder recommends, no question... all good

(and I'm still at work - not your fault though lol - Sharif's! )
 
  #30  
Old 07-07-2007, 08:39 PM
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thanks for the input. My builder Kyle @ imports parts pro suggested the ARP 2000 head stud kit. I am retaining my stock valves and seats. and just going with a grind anf flow for the heads.
Question: Is the U-Tec pretty simple to use? program changes of the fly and such.
 


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