Greddy TT - 328 HP - Need Fuel
#17
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Originally Posted by 6spG
Sorry for jacking the thread but what's up with all the bunny avatars?
https://g35driver.com/forums/southern-california/186752-my-bunny-your-bunny.html
#18
Originally Posted by 617G
new injectors won't do anything without a fuel pump to supply enough fuel for them
btw, your's A/F at IDLE is 10.4 - 11.0?
You should be at ~14.7. Even under boost, that's PIG rich and only done in the very high rpm for safety. Who's doing your tuning? ![Confused2](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused2.gif)
btw, your's A/F at IDLE is 10.4 - 11.0?
![Icon43](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/icon43.gif)
![Confused2](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused2.gif)
+1
There is something else wrong there. Your car should be able to idle fine with 750's.
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Originally Posted by sliderg35
Does anyone have a graph showing the target A/F ratio from idle to 7000RPM?
#21
Originally Posted by sliderg35
Does anyone have a graph showing the target A/F ratio from idle to 7000RPM?
![](http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r34/GT-Motorsports/Hexxum%20Vortech%20G35C/HexxumG35CDynograph.jpg)
#23
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#26
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Wouldn't that depend on his ecu management? ie. if he's using an unit that can scale for diff injectors?
Something just doesn't add up with Sinister350GT though. His sig says built motor, greddy, 600+ whp, and FCON V-PRO. There's only a handful of tuners that are licensed to sell/tune it and none would let a car leave with such a pig rich idle
![Dunno](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
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Originally Posted by sliderg35
Excellent! Thanks for the graphs; they clear things up nicely. I'm using the E-Manage Ultimate and have complete reconfigurability on the A/F. If it should be 10-11 from 3K RPM and up, I'll make it that way. I just can't get enough fuel in there right now, but my new pump is on the way. ![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Not to mention, the Greddy kit blew a lot of motors when it first came out because people weren't familiar with how to tune the VQ motor. I suggest you bring it to a local tuner and get it done properly or you may be rebuilding a motor very soon
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#28
I did take it to a local tuner and tuned on a dyno. I wasn't that impressed with the guy though because he just adjusted fuel and didn't even look at the timing. I was afraid to leave it there too long. I knew something would have to be done about the fuel, so I'll take it to a better shop once the pump is in. (If I can even find another shop in BC.
)
![Confused2](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/confused2.gif)
#29
First advice, get at least UTEC and stay away from a piggyback, IMHO.
Getting your Fuel right can be done on the street. There is no one who will put more time in your car but yourself, so if you are up to the challenge then learn to tune your car. Fuel can be done easily without any dyno as long as you have a Wideband and some good logging software.
Timing is a little tricky so you need a Dyno for that. You can still tune your timing curve on the street by advancing 2-3 deg at a time and when you hit knock then back of your timing a few deg. You need at least an EGT gauge on the street. When you pull to much timing, your EGT also rises so pulling timing doesn't always mean it is a good thing. It is tricky coz only in the dyno that you will see if adding timing really does add power, there is no point of adding some timing if there is no added power benefit.
On my stock motor, at around 1-2 psi, I'm ok running on low 12's and as I hit some good boost (4-5psi) then I like my A/f to be around 11.6-11.3. At full boost around 8psi, I want my A/F to be around 11.1. Also you want your timing around peak TQ to be the lowest and as your TQ goes down then you can start adding some timing.
Edit:
My # are for a 93 octane gas so if you are running 91 then I would go a little richer and less timing. 11.1 A/F at full boost is already conservative so I'll run 10.9-11.1 on a 91 octane.
Getting your Fuel right can be done on the street. There is no one who will put more time in your car but yourself, so if you are up to the challenge then learn to tune your car. Fuel can be done easily without any dyno as long as you have a Wideband and some good logging software.
Timing is a little tricky so you need a Dyno for that. You can still tune your timing curve on the street by advancing 2-3 deg at a time and when you hit knock then back of your timing a few deg. You need at least an EGT gauge on the street. When you pull to much timing, your EGT also rises so pulling timing doesn't always mean it is a good thing. It is tricky coz only in the dyno that you will see if adding timing really does add power, there is no point of adding some timing if there is no added power benefit.
On my stock motor, at around 1-2 psi, I'm ok running on low 12's and as I hit some good boost (4-5psi) then I like my A/f to be around 11.6-11.3. At full boost around 8psi, I want my A/F to be around 11.1. Also you want your timing around peak TQ to be the lowest and as your TQ goes down then you can start adding some timing.
Edit:
My # are for a 93 octane gas so if you are running 91 then I would go a little richer and less timing. 11.1 A/F at full boost is already conservative so I'll run 10.9-11.1 on a 91 octane.
Last edited by FI'ed G; 11-16-2007 at 10:12 PM.
#30
Can't go UTEC - I tried that first. The plug on my ECU is different because it was an early 03 (major bummer). I had to go E-Manage because it was a "splice in".
The logging software on the E-Manage is pretty good, but there doesn't seem to be an A/F log feature. Everything else is there. My Autometer Nexus gauges do have a logging feature, but I haven't tried it to see what the data looks like.
I would sure like to find a "reputable" tuner in BC, Seattle or Northern Washington - Any suggestions?
The logging software on the E-Manage is pretty good, but there doesn't seem to be an A/F log feature. Everything else is there. My Autometer Nexus gauges do have a logging feature, but I haven't tried it to see what the data looks like.
I would sure like to find a "reputable" tuner in BC, Seattle or Northern Washington - Any suggestions?