Greddy TT - 328 HP - Need Fuel
#31
11-29-2007, 12:07 PM
You may also want to modify the fuel pump basket assy for higher fuel flow. I have one for sale -- https://g35driver.com/forums/archived-sales/189005-g35-coupe-fuel-pump-basket-assy.html
#33
11-30-2007, 10:35 AM
#35
11-30-2007, 03:59 PM
Originally Posted by 617G
new injectors won't do anything without a fuel pump to supply enough fuel for them
btw, your's A/F at IDLE is 10.4 - 11.0?
You should be at ~14.7. Even under boost, that's PIG rich and only done in the very high rpm for safety. Who's doing your tuning? 
btw, your's A/F at IDLE is 10.4 - 11.0?
You should be at ~14.7. Even under boost, that's PIG rich and only done in the very high rpm for safety. Who's doing your tuning? You should easily be getting enough fuel to make good HP . There something else going on . The tuner isnt up to par with tuning the E-manage , or something isnt working right . The tuner should have known this in stead of suggesting bigger injectors .....good luck !! Might want to look for some one that knows the E-manage a bit better .
#36
12-01-2007, 01:32 AM
OK, the pump is in. I made a DIY here.
First impressions... The car is harder to start when it's cold. It has to crank a couple of turns before it catches. It used to start on 1/4 turn. Once started, everything is good. The A/F at idle is up to 14.9. I'll have to re-tune before I can check out the power at higher revs.
First impressions... The car is harder to start when it's cold. It has to crank a couple of turns before it catches. It used to start on 1/4 turn. Once started, everything is good. The A/F at idle is up to 14.9. I'll have to re-tune before I can check out the power at higher revs.
#38
12-01-2007, 12:08 PM
Originally Posted by sliderg35
OK, the pump is in. I made a DIY here.
First impressions... The car is harder to start when it's cold. It has to crank a couple of turns before it catches. It used to start on 1/4 turn. Once started, everything is good. The A/F at idle is up to 14.9. I'll have to re-tune before I can check out the power at higher revs.
First impressions... The car is harder to start when it's cold. It has to crank a couple of turns before it catches. It used to start on 1/4 turn. Once started, everything is good. The A/F at idle is up to 14.9. I'll have to re-tune before I can check out the power at higher revs.
I don't have that starting problem with mine. I did at one time but it was because the check valve in the pump went bad and I had to replace the pump.
#39
12-01-2007, 01:14 PM
#40
12-02-2007, 11:37 AM
#42
12-05-2007, 04:52 PM
Originally Posted by FI'ed G
First advice, get at least UTEC and stay away from a piggyback, IMHO.
Getting your Fuel right can be done on the street. There is no one who will put more time in your car but yourself, so if you are up to the challenge then learn to tune your car. Fuel can be done easily without any dyno as long as you have a Wideband and some good logging software.
Timing is a little tricky so you need a Dyno for that. You can still tune your timing curve on the street by advancing 2-3 deg at a time and when you hit knock then back of your timing a few deg. You need at least an EGT gauge on the street. When you pull to much timing, your EGT also rises so pulling timing doesn't always mean it is a good thing. It is tricky coz only in the dyno that you will see if adding timing really does add power, there is no point of adding some timing if there is no added power benefit.
On my stock motor, at around 1-2 psi, I'm ok running on low 12's and as I hit some good boost (4-5psi) then I like my A/f to be around 11.6-11.3. At full boost around 8psi, I want my A/F to be around 11.1. Also you want your timing around peak TQ to be the lowest and as your TQ goes down then you can start adding some timing.
Edit:
My # are for a 93 octane gas so if you are running 91 then I would go a little richer and less timing. 11.1 A/F at full boost is already conservative so I'll run 10.9-11.1 on a 91 octane.
Getting your Fuel right can be done on the street. There is no one who will put more time in your car but yourself, so if you are up to the challenge then learn to tune your car. Fuel can be done easily without any dyno as long as you have a Wideband and some good logging software.
Timing is a little tricky so you need a Dyno for that. You can still tune your timing curve on the street by advancing 2-3 deg at a time and when you hit knock then back of your timing a few deg. You need at least an EGT gauge on the street. When you pull to much timing, your EGT also rises so pulling timing doesn't always mean it is a good thing. It is tricky coz only in the dyno that you will see if adding timing really does add power, there is no point of adding some timing if there is no added power benefit.
On my stock motor, at around 1-2 psi, I'm ok running on low 12's and as I hit some good boost (4-5psi) then I like my A/f to be around 11.6-11.3. At full boost around 8psi, I want my A/F to be around 11.1. Also you want your timing around peak TQ to be the lowest and as your TQ goes down then you can start adding some timing.
Edit:
My # are for a 93 octane gas so if you are running 91 then I would go a little richer and less timing. 11.1 A/F at full boost is already conservative so I'll run 10.9-11.1 on a 91 octane.
Utec IS a piggybackAlso, you can do your fuel trims with a palm pilot plugged into the OBDII port, but you need to know how to read each bank and make sure you set short term and long term fuel trims. It takes a while to get this done right
#43
12-05-2007, 04:53 PM
#44
12-06-2007, 11:33 AM
I hear the pump turn on right away. I wait until I hear it stop, then I turn the key further to "Start" and it starts up immediately. I think the initial whine I hear is the pump building the pressure. Once the pressure is up, the pump sound changes - almost like it stopped, then starting is easy. I would really prefer not having to do that.
#45
12-06-2007, 11:56 AM