a general rule of thumb on the vq engine is that the cc's of an injector is roughly how much HP it can handle. so 440cc = 440whp, 380cc = 380whp. They will be running close to 95% or so of capacity at these levels, so if you want 400whp, 440cc injectors should be safe, but might as well go with 550cc's as they cost about the same and will be under less stress.

 

UPDATE:
Turns out my car has a manifold leak. So that might be a cause for the tuning issue. Have to wait one more week or so. Hopefully its just the gasket. When I get it back, I will have the set of 380cc PE injectors for sale, and the Aeromotive Procharger D-FMU for sale also if anyone is interested. And I also found out that they do have G35 experience. They have one there now with a fully built motor and forced induction. And a Lotus Elise.

 

I just bought a PE complete kit (being shipped), please tell me my first dyno isn't going to say 260 something I'll cry

 

Lolz

 

UPDATE: 290 HP. Cracked manifolds so tuner stayed conservative.. WTB 2 turbo manifolds.

 

There is something def wrong here as 290rwhp is just way to low.You need to post up some dyno sheets and let us look.

 

+1 I don't know how you're getting these #s

 

Finally, here is my dyno sheet. You see why I am so confused? I cant believe cracked manifolds will rob 100hp...

I have a good setup.

 

Dude get as far away from that tuner as you can and do not run into boost at all.There is something seriously wrong with either the install or the tune of the engine.A suggestion were are you located as we might be able to help you find a tuner in your area.

 

i am in iowa - i need to find a really good tuner within a 4 hour drive.

 

RUN AWAY AS FAST AS YOU CAN FROM THEM!!! Something is seriously wrong. Take it to a VQ expert shop.

 

Ok, but does anyone have any suggestions where I can go in the midwest? Preferably someone within a 4 hr drive of des moines. Im kinda new to the tuning world, so if anyone wants to point out any flaws they can see in the dyno graph, that would be great. This forum has taught me quite a bit already....

 

You are going to blow you're motor. That big dip looks like it detonated or retarded timing due to knock (UTEC trying to save your motor). I can't believe they shared that graph with you as it's evidence you can use against them to buy you a new motor. And manifolds don't just crack. Something happened... See if you can get the same plot but with A/F on there. If you really want them to try to fix this mess, AFTER you get the plot with A/F, tell them to tune to 11.5 for anything greater than 0 psi. Their timing is probably too advanced as well but the fuel will help save your motor so you can drive it to a real tuner.

 

ok, well I have an a/f gauge (uego), and a greddy informeter hooked up. I can use those to get an idea of how the car is reacting. Just let me know what to look for.

I really dont feel comfortable taking it back up there with them being 4 hours away and only hurt my engine. They said the thin walls of the stainless manifold are the cause of the cracks.

 

Gezuz!! That is one of the ugliest dyno sheets that I have ever seen.

Is Illinois too far?? If not, I would suggest GRD.

http://www.grdperformance.com/