Any Mechanics In Socal
#76
03-13-2009, 03:49 AM
#77
03-13-2009, 10:30 AM
Back on topic and regards to where this thread is going:
A message to the OP: I have been researching FI and all the shops that are on this forum for years and am just saving so I can finally pull the trigger. I've also read and followed all the threads regarding reputable and shady shops, even that long *** thread over on my350z (how the heck did u guys turn it into a CIA manhunt with over 50+ pages and counting is beyond me but keep up the good work and very entertaining as well as informative
)
I've already formed my opinion in regards to RA and Scott and it really all boils down to this. If you really want to go FI, would you really want to bring it to any shop that has any type of controversy surrounding them whether they be true or not? Picture it this way, if there is a hot chick thats rumored to have AIDS but a few guys swear she doesn't, do you still want to take the risk and tap that? I wouldn't think so. I'd say play it safe than sorry and go to someone who has nothing but good reviews to their name since it is such a big investment and there are so many other options available to you. If I was in Cali, I'd say GTM all the way.
Hope that helped.
A message to the OP: I have been researching FI and all the shops that are on this forum for years and am just saving so I can finally pull the trigger. I've also read and followed all the threads regarding reputable and shady shops, even that long *** thread over on my350z (how the heck did u guys turn it into a CIA manhunt with over 50+ pages and counting is beyond me but keep up the good work and very entertaining as well as informative
)I've already formed my opinion in regards to RA and Scott and it really all boils down to this. If you really want to go FI, would you really want to bring it to any shop that has any type of controversy surrounding them whether they be true or not? Picture it this way, if there is a hot chick thats rumored to have AIDS but a few guys swear she doesn't, do you still want to take the risk and tap that? I wouldn't think so. I'd say play it safe than sorry and go to someone who has nothing but good reviews to their name since it is such a big investment and there are so many other options available to you. If I was in Cali, I'd say GTM all the way.
Hope that helped.
Funny but well saidGTM backs up everything they do with Dyno, Video and build list.......We have posted FAKE dyno's from the other shop, we have posted fake claims of 750-800 whp using turbo's that can hardly make 550whp/DD from that same shop. We have asked for REAL dyno runs ...and we all have offered to pay for such dyno info. We have shops that have offered their services FREE OF CHARGE so that we can clear this all up.
Here is the way i look at it....If I go to a shop and tell them I want 500whp...I better get 500+ on any dyno I go to. I also want a safe 500+ whp....I dont want a time bomb....I want proven products used on my car.
One shop charges 25K and gives you all the best parts and gives you EXACTLY what you paid for.. For the same 25K the other shops uses cheap parts that were not meant to be used for that power range and gives you FAKE dyno info to make you feel good. Most never know that the 500 whp that they paid for was really a little over 400....then you wonder why that Honda just walked you...or why your car starts to slow down when your RPM's go up......
Here is a funny post from another site ...
Yeah, some shops actually generate a REAL 700whp dyno tested car, and others use smoke and mirrors, and a cracked out dyno to show 700whp on a engine and turbo system that is INCAPABLE of ever making that type of power.
I still remember VRT/RA posting 600whp dyno charts on the tiny baby 530bb kits...LOL. Those guys would fart and generate 600-800whp. :thumbup:
I still remember VRT/RA posting 600whp dyno charts on the tiny baby 530bb kits...LOL. Those guys would fart and generate 600-800whp. :thumbup:
Last edited by XKR; 03-13-2009 at 11:12 AM.
#78
03-13-2009, 11:54 AM
Private cash money!
I was a little scared y'all only got 11 seconds-- I was hoping for better with my build.
I'm always lurking- Car is in pieces in garage... the thread quality around here has gone to ****... so I don't have much to say.
I'm just havin fun with my CBR1000 in the mean time ^_^
I hate thinking that ill be spending all this money to fix my G to get it CLOSE to how fast my bike is stock :/ loll.
#79
03-13-2009, 01:02 PM
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Private cash money!
I was a little scared y'all only got 11 seconds-- I was hoping for better with my build.
I'm always lurking- Car is in pieces in garage... the thread quality around here has gone to ****... so I don't have much to say.
I'm just havin fun with my CBR1000 in the mean time ^_^
I hate thinking that ill be spending all this money to fix my G to get it CLOSE to how fast my bike is stock :/ loll.
I was a little scared y'all only got 11 seconds-- I was hoping for better with my build.
I'm always lurking- Car is in pieces in garage... the thread quality around here has gone to ****... so I don't have much to say.
I'm just havin fun with my CBR1000 in the mean time ^_^
I hate thinking that ill be spending all this money to fix my G to get it CLOSE to how fast my bike is stock :/ loll.
*Use only standard ARP head studs (non-L19)
*Stock sleeves are retained
*Crank is stock
*Rear diff is stock
*Head gasket is stock
*Full weight + cage + full stereo
*Full wide body
*Non-ported head, only using valve springs and light cams
Oh, and you could daily drive it,
It's cool that you want to flex homie, but we've been running 8's and 9's in much heavier, less displacement, shorter wheel-base rwd cars for 5 years now. Our G is a test vehicle for parts development and was built to show that the over engineering of VQ's at the time was unnecessary. It's quite obvious that the car has a low 10 in it in not changing a single thing other than utilizing the power that the turbo has already made. However, if your tuner was only going to the track with his car, working on his car, and always fluffing himself, you'd be somewhat concerned about his customers cars right? Lol, we're taking 3 cars to HIN today. Not 1 of them makes under 1000hp... (2/3 of them are customers cars that we built too -- 1 being shot for the cover of Super Street today!)
Darren
#80
03-13-2009, 01:25 PM
Coming in here and flexing to shops like Intense who have been actually DOING it (instead of talking about it) and know much more about it is never a good idea. How's this thread gone to shxt? I guess trying to keep a fellow board member from getting scammed is nonsense to you. 
Why do you even post in this thread if it's shxt, is it so you can take jabs at people and talk about your future quarter mile times and your own car going fast? You are the one going off-topic..look at the title of the thread.
Why do you even post in this thread if it's shxt, is it so you can take jabs at people and talk about your future quarter mile times and your own car going fast? You are the one going off-topic..look at the title of the thread. If you want to be the hero, as it appears you're putting your car so far ahead of your horse.... when you build your motor make sure:
*Use only standard ARP head studs (non-L19)
*Stock sleeves are retained
*Crank is stock
*Rear diff is stock
*Head gasket is stock
*Full weight + cage + full stereo
*Full wide body
*Non-ported head, only using valve springs and light cams
Oh, and you could daily drive it, occasionally drifting it on 22" wheels, all the while winning numerous shows (HIN a couple of times in Phoenix and LA), have it shot for the cover of a major world distributed magazine (Performance Auto and Sound) and making 900+whp 1.5 years ago and enjoying it every since!
It's cool that you want to flex homie, but we've been running 8's and 9's in much heavier, less displacement, shorter wheel-base rwd cars for 5 years now. Our G is a test vehicle for parts development and was built to show that the over engineering of VQ's at the time was unnecessary. It's quite obvious that the car has a low 10 in it in not changing a single thing other than utilizing the power that the turbo has already made. However, if your tuner was only going to the track with his car, working on his car, and always fluffing himself, you'd be somewhat concerned about his customers cars right? Lol, we're taking 3 cars to HIN today. Not 1 of them makes under 1000hp... (2/3 of them are customers cars that we built too -- 1 being shot for the cover of Super Street today!)
Darren
*Use only standard ARP head studs (non-L19)
*Stock sleeves are retained
*Crank is stock
*Rear diff is stock
*Head gasket is stock
*Full weight + cage + full stereo
*Full wide body
*Non-ported head, only using valve springs and light cams
Oh, and you could daily drive it, occasionally drifting it on 22" wheels, all the while winning numerous shows (HIN a couple of times in Phoenix and LA), have it shot for the cover of a major world distributed magazine (Performance Auto and Sound) and making 900+whp 1.5 years ago and enjoying it every since!
It's cool that you want to flex homie, but we've been running 8's and 9's in much heavier, less displacement, shorter wheel-base rwd cars for 5 years now. Our G is a test vehicle for parts development and was built to show that the over engineering of VQ's at the time was unnecessary. It's quite obvious that the car has a low 10 in it in not changing a single thing other than utilizing the power that the turbo has already made. However, if your tuner was only going to the track with his car, working on his car, and always fluffing himself, you'd be somewhat concerned about his customers cars right? Lol, we're taking 3 cars to HIN today. Not 1 of them makes under 1000hp... (2/3 of them are customers cars that we built too -- 1 being shot for the cover of Super Street today!)
Darren
Last edited by threatcon07; 03-13-2009 at 01:43 PM.
#81
03-13-2009, 02:35 PM
Join Date: Dec 2004
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JTrain:
While you have derailed this thread, please start your own.
We've already proven what can be done on a low budget (no sleeves, no headwork, stock displacement). It's funny that you think "big money" had anything to do with
our success. Work smarter, not harder: that's the motto.
Oh, and "all show, all go -- that's the motto"
Darren(back on topic fellas -- sorry!)
While you have derailed this thread, please start your own.
We've already proven what can be done on a low budget (no sleeves, no headwork, stock displacement). It's funny that you think "big money" had anything to do with
our success. Work smarter, not harder: that's the motto.
Oh, and "all show, all go -- that's the motto"
Darren(back on topic fellas -- sorry!)
#83
03-14-2009, 08:04 PM
I guess this proves that its not possible to make 700-800 whp using 1 Walboro and an FMU/SS box.Ok guys.....I can answer some of these things people are wondering about.the SS box for starters......We will not use anythng over a 650cc injectors with those boxes.When you start going too large of injectors,you will run into starting issues since the SS box can not scale the injectors for the cold and hot start enrichments which are set in the factory ECU.The SS box can not alter those enrichments.
Then there is the issue of MAF sensor since the JWT box does not use a map sensor.It only alters the MAF sensor and you can only get so much airflow out of a 70mm MAF sensor.Besides that you dont have the resolution you want.For example at 16 psi of boost,you are on the very last row of cells to do your tuning.Realisticly,if someone wants to have this kind of horsepower then they need to go to a
Haltech,V-pro,Pro-efi,etc........otherwise kaboom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The more voltage you give a fuel pump,the more flow you can get out of it to a certain point. However, this is overdriving the pump for duties it was not designed for, which can lead to failure.If your pump fails under boost, your motor could explode. On top of that, there is no way for a single Walboro to support more then 600-650WHP reliably and safely
Injectors.....you will not support 800WHP with a 550cc injector or even a 750cc injector, period. A 1000cc injector would do the trick if you have the pump behind it.There is a simple calculation for determining injectors size for your horsepower requirements. Here it is......
horsepower x BSFC(brake specific fuel consumption)
______________________________________________ = injector size
number of injectors x duty cycle
So 800 x .55(typically a low comp turbo engine has a bsfc of .60)= 440
6(injectors) x .80(80% duty cycle)= 4.8
440/4.8=91.6 lb/hr injector.
Now change the BSFC to .60....You will need 100lb/hr injector.
This is what you need to do it safely as far as injectors go....but this still does not address having enough fuel from your pump to support this or the size of the line feeding the rails,or the inlet and outlet size of the rails.There is alot to figure out when designing a sufficient fuel system.You cant just throw a 255 with pressure reg,more juice from the battery with a 750cc injector and say,yes we have a track proven fuel system.LOL.What a joke. I see Jim Wolf quite often and I can guarantee he would never, ever tell people, sure this is fine for 700-800WHP, go out and race your car.
Then there is the issue of MAF sensor since the JWT box does not use a map sensor.It only alters the MAF sensor and you can only get so much airflow out of a 70mm MAF sensor.Besides that you dont have the resolution you want.For example at 16 psi of boost,you are on the very last row of cells to do your tuning.Realisticly,if someone wants to have this kind of horsepower then they need to go to a
Haltech,V-pro,Pro-efi,etc........otherwise kaboom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The more voltage you give a fuel pump,the more flow you can get out of it to a certain point. However, this is overdriving the pump for duties it was not designed for, which can lead to failure.If your pump fails under boost, your motor could explode. On top of that, there is no way for a single Walboro to support more then 600-650WHP reliably and safely
Injectors.....you will not support 800WHP with a 550cc injector or even a 750cc injector, period. A 1000cc injector would do the trick if you have the pump behind it.There is a simple calculation for determining injectors size for your horsepower requirements. Here it is......
horsepower x BSFC(brake specific fuel consumption)
______________________________________________ = injector size
number of injectors x duty cycle
So 800 x .55(typically a low comp turbo engine has a bsfc of .60)= 440
6(injectors) x .80(80% duty cycle)= 4.8
440/4.8=91.6 lb/hr injector.
Now change the BSFC to .60....You will need 100lb/hr injector.
This is what you need to do it safely as far as injectors go....but this still does not address having enough fuel from your pump to support this or the size of the line feeding the rails,or the inlet and outlet size of the rails.There is alot to figure out when designing a sufficient fuel system.You cant just throw a 255 with pressure reg,more juice from the battery with a 750cc injector and say,yes we have a track proven fuel system.LOL.What a joke. I see Jim Wolf quite often and I can guarantee he would never, ever tell people, sure this is fine for 700-800WHP, go out and race your car.
Last edited by XKR; 03-15-2009 at 02:06 PM.
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