F-CON !!!!!

 

ANY knowledgable tuner can tune a Haltech. Even one that has never tuned one before - it's software interface is that intuitive. There are numerous builds on this site and on my350z running the Haltech. The support thread has more details, located here: http://my350z.com/forum/product-anno...tandalone.html

To my knowledge, it is the only EMS that interfaces with the car's native CAN communication to allow interaction with stock equipment (such as wheel speed sensors for traction control).

 

thanks for the feedback everyone, i should be more specific when i start my thread. there was a question as to what kind of system i should use. i am familiar with what is out there I'm just not sure exactly how much tuning freedom i should allow. i'm looking to get 650-700whp safely. i'm currently at 510whp at 8psi.

 

510whp at 8psi?

 

for my setup 510whp is made at 8psi..

 

Given your HP goal, I would recommend the F-CON, Haltech or ViPec V88.

If you go with F-Con, you are limited to using an authrized HKS dealer for tunering... If you don't have an authorized HKS dealer near you, you might want to stick with the Haltech or ViPec. Check out their web sites and compare their respective features.

 

You previously posted that you made low to mid 400s at 8 and 10 psi. Hmmmm...

 

haha, own3d! going from 465 to 700 is a huge jump. Good luck! You need more than a ECU to do that

 

Vipec v88 is what's being used on my build.

 

clarity- rcdash called me on my dyno info so i'd like to provide some insight to the jump in power. it's not magical, the guys at the tuner shop i went to had a higher rate of load for my car. they said this is normal for them since they tune drift and track cars. my car was also running fairly lean at the time which led my session to be cut short as to spare the pain of a blown motor. i will get my new sheet up to make my point more clearly. you guys offer a lot of help and it is appreciated.

 

For comparison's sake (across different dynos), a SAE or STD corrected dynojet is well accepted. Dynapacks are notorious for inflating numbers (e.g. the JWT dyno). The fact that your tuner shop tweaked a setting on the dyno to increase the power output displayed is telling you something. It's not magical, but it is made up and completely irrelevant whp # for comparison to other cars. A JWT 700bb kit and low compression 3.5L motor will see around 350-380 whp on a Dynojet at 8 psi. With your cams, maybe a little higher whp, but not much more torque.

 

that's correct, i did my last run and normalized the data to get an accurate comparison between having loaded sprung weight on the vehicle and un-sprung weight. so a 20% loaded system vs. almost no load. that's how the power was measured in the runs.as you well know we do not exist in an environment where there are no frictional and rotating mass losses, however just for numbers sake that hp can be shown with 10psi.

 

The numbers are not comparable unless they have been cross-checked on a Dynojet (or the dyno has several data points comparing cars run on both). Mathematical corrections are guesses and bogus as a point of comparison. Dynojet STD and SAE numbers have fixed atmospheric correction factors and are the most reproducable/repeatable across different dynos.

There's nothing terribly real world about any dyno #. It's just a # that approximates engine output as measured at the wheels, hubs, etc. You can compare #s across different runs on the same dyno. That's it - and that's fine for tuning. If you want to compare your dyno # to someone else's car measured at some other dyno, get a Dynojet reading. Hope that makes it clear.

 

that makes sense. i wanted to see what other factors can positively or negatively affect my power output. that's what i was looking for when i had the load changed on the hub. it decreased from 20% down to 12%. hence the big power change. but back to the topic of the thread. how is the haltech setup working??

 

Fcon vpro <3