So I'm thinking I might hold off on the fuel system upgrade for now. What I'm reading over in the FI section of 350Z is that with my initial power projections- especially with my stock clutchpack / rods- the stock components with the exception of the fuel pump should be sufficient.

And as for big red... well, with an attitude like that someone is getting a lump of coal in his stocking!

 

With out a rising rate fuel pressure regulator or something of the sort I don't think you will get 400whp out of stock injectors?? I know my JWT kit came with an intake rising rate FPR basically as boost increases so does fuel pressure so you get more out of OEM injectors. As far as I know every system with out that type of FPR uses larger injectors Even with the FPR my injectors were over taxed at 400whp.

If you google it you should be able to find out how to calculate how much hp your injectors can support. I have done it before but I am too laze to find the formula .

I strongly recommend upgrading your fuel system for engine safety. I honestly think the only reason my car stays together at 200hp more than people say is safe is because my fuel system was planned to supply fuel for 800whp.

 

Baby steps... (I think?)

I don't expect to come out of the gate with 400whp on the first stage either... From a problem solving perspective I'm associating the upgrade in horsepower with an overclock of a computer. (Something I DO know about). When we overclock, typically we isolate the different components so that if something bad happens we know where to go right away. If I build in the turbo and the fuel system all at one go and have troubles, are the potential problems easy enough to identify if both systems are installed simultaneously?

Is it easier to do them separately? Run the turbo, find the kinks and tighten things up... then upgrade the fuel system and pump up the proverbial volume?

Again, I might be thinking in impractical terms? I'm sure you all know this is the VERY first time I have proposed anything that is possibly impractical.

 

with what your putting on dont expect to come to far from it!
my turbonetics dyno'd 376whp out of the box. a few tweeks with fuel and timing and up to 404whp in 3 hrs on the dyno...so with YOUR kit it should be a bit higher i think! mabe even de-tune a bit. Sylvan or red would know better on this one but it doesnt take long with a good tuner.

 

In my uneducated opinion, it seems this type of build at this hp target has been done enough times that the componentry to make it all happen as safely and problem-free as possible is well-known. I would think that building the fuel system from the get-go to match the turbos will result in less trouble than installing the turbos, then trying to bring the fuel system (or the cooling or whatever else) up to scratch.

 

Wayne 1 has a point. You usually want to everything else before the turbos to avoid problems. Though you've changed various things, you also add insurance that everything will work harmoniously. Given all the parts were installed correctly.

Oh yeah, Wayne 3, if you care to indulge what all your power setup is.. I send pm.

 

Okay... so what the resounding message that I'm getting here, and that I'm sure everyone is also reading- is for me to take a deep breath and be a little more patient. Go back to my original plan: Have a goal, make a plan, stick to it and leave room for growth.

Here's that sway at anchor thing. Now then... if red decides to stay home instead of rushing out to shoot bald eagles and any other endangered species that enter his scope I might have a better idea of which parts I should start looking for

Thanks again for the input guys. I promise at some point in this thread I'm going to pull the trigger and get this thing in motion. Just tough being out of town every other week.

 

Welcome to Boost.

You will enjoy it and never want to go back to Natura Aspiration. I promise.

I'm running a Greddy 18g kit w/ 440's and they are a tad small (the limiting factor in all my upgraded engine components) so they will be the next to upgrade.

Boost is also addictive and gets expensive very fast.

What are you using to Tune? IF you are serious about COBB please re-think your EMS! I have no thing against COBB but there are so many better options!

congrats, and POST MORE PICS

 

Of course there are better options for an extra $2,000 and for his goals the COBB would be good.

You might think you are running less than 400whp out of the box but....I will bet you $$$ your waste gates are set at 10psi you will be looking at 425+ with conservative timing. I do understand what you are saying for isolating problems but fuel supply and boost issues should be easy to differentiate.

 

The kit should be set for 10psi, that's what mine was set at. I believe I hit 430 right out of the box then tuned to 450 now 473whp. I just had the JWT rising rate fuel pressure regulator,255 walbro and 550 injectors to start when I hit 430. Then went to return system later. But that is up to you on how you want to go. You don't need a fuel return right away but would be a good idea.

Don't think I am going hunting so I will look for some parts.

 

Gords right. It doesn't have a lot of features like a stand alone or EMU, but the Accessport is a reliable and capable engine management for stock or larger injectors.

Ian, i have a vortech fmu im not using if you want to rise fuel pressure. It's set at 4:1 now but you can go down to 1:1. It's this model:

 

Admittedly when I first saw that device I thought it was an espresso machine. Judging by what I've read in a quick google search, it would be a good piece of kit to have. If I'm going to totally copy and paste Red's build I should probably ask if you can trade it for a JWT device instead?

I'll take that to IM with you and we'll sort out some details!

 

Okay... a couple more things that I'm learning in my insatiable quest for knowledge.

I do have the upgraded valvebody (Transgo) and it's been awesome. It REALLY soups up performance so anyone thinking about it- even without a boost it's a fun upgrade. It costs about 250 to buy and is about 5-700 dollars to install. I also had a large tranny cooler installed because popular opinion is that cool = good.

In my travels, I'm learning that there are 3 primary components that should be upgraded on an AT. Valvebody, Cooler, and Clutch packs.

At first I thought a "clutch pack" would be something in an MT. Most of you probably already know that they're not. They're basically the disks inside your transmission body- and an upgrade of those disks is recommended. One person who sounded a lot smarter than me on the subject (might have been a plant for all I know) seemed quite confident that the limit of the stock parts was about 330ft/lb over "any amount of time." Of course that doesn't mean that I couldn't run 400ft/lb for as long as it takes to scribble on a dyno sheet... Or 500ft/lb for as long as it takes for me to reach into my wallet and and buy a new transmission.

So now my lazy eye is on options to upgrade the clutch packs (my other eye is on the pop machine)... an adventure that will undoubtedly end up costing about 1700 bucks for the packs and the labour. This would be a future upgrade- but likely "near" future.

Red, in that original build that you're talking about with the upgraded pump, regulator, and injectors- did you have your rails installed already? Sorry- not sure if the stock platform alone will accommodate the beefy injectors.

 

Red is busy playing video games tonight so i will answer for him. He had stock rails with the Nismo 550cc injectors, a 255lph pump and the JWT rising rate FPR originally. Then he went to the AAM return kit that came with new billet rails and the fuel pressure the big boys use is not the rising rate one pictured above but rather an aeromotive one (not trying to sabotage your sale Keith)that holds a steady pressure and it is used in conduction with a fuel return kit. It is pictured below.

Eno i should have opened that box with the injectors and tried them in the stock rail I have on my work bench, i am 90% sure they should work with stock rails at that point it would be the most affordable to run stock rails with HKS injectors and Keiths rising rate FPR then down the road you could go with a return system. Especially since red is too busy playing video games to find the set of billet fuel rails he has sitting around!!!

I have a JWT FPR in my garage somewhere but I have not seen it in over a year i would have hooked you up on it with the injectors if I knew where it was!?!


It is the red part on the passenger side fire wall. please excuse the dirty engine bay everything was still oily and greasy this picture was taken right after we installed the engine, before I even started it.

 

Please do not skimp on the fuel system, you've got a good start, that is not the area to skimp on. While you might be able to push the stock 290cc injectors for a while, I would never recommend running injectors anywhere near maxed, its just asking for one to fail and that means BOOM.

Also, there's a reason cobb discontinued the accessport; it works ok for NA applications but I wouldn't trust it with my FI motor.

(I'm not from canada but seattle is pretty close so I thought I'd chime in )