Update 10/20/2012: 2006 projectors and rear light swap.
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Update 9/27/2012:
I decided to swap my Ark Grip exhaust for a MD TDX2 Shockwave. Wow, what a difference! I should have just gone with Motordyne in the first place. The Art tp's and TDX2 are a great combo. I no longer have the pesky rasp and hissing noise I was getting from the Ark pos X-pipe. You can tell they put alot R&D into this exhaust. The built of this thing is amazing all way up to the V band clamp. The sound is ecstasy to my ears and piercing at WOT, lol. I decided to retune to maximize output potential. See last dyno chart below. My tuner pull it down about 5800rpm becuase it wanted to keep my tq below 390. At my next tune I will have Rob keep climbing as long as it safe and there is no knock all the way to redline.
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Update 6/29/2012:
I blew out my Fast Intentions HFC's, so I decided to install ART test pipes and go from a 3.33 pulley to a 3.25 pulley. The Art tp's are freaking amazing. I was surprised that the sound was slightly louder but more menacing than my HFC's. The gas fumes are almost non-existent, a big plus for my family. I highly recommend these to anyone going this route.

Rob @ ZCG did a great job on the tune. I did loose 1psi of boost with the arts. Here is my before/after Dyno chart.

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Your thoughts on my Vortech build...

Installing in a stock engine that was replaced because of the OC issue in 2009. New engine currently @ 25k miles stock dyno from ZCGarage @ 227HP/219TQ

After dyno, I installed the MD 5/16 spacer and ARK v2 TD exhaust. I will know what kind of numbers I got from these two mods on the before and after dyno run.


Vortech build:
V2 Kit
Si blower
3.33 pulley
720cc injectors
Walbro 255
Uprev Maf GT
Uprev Reflash (custom tuning)
JWT Cams S1
FI Resonated HFC's
Stillen Headers
JWT Clutch/Flywheel
ZCG Oil Cooler
Mishimoto catch can
1-Step colder plugs
AEM A/F, STRI Boost, oil and water temp gauges

6/26/12 Art test pipes and 3.25 Pulley
9/27/12 Motordyne TDX2 Shockwave Exhaust
10/20/12 06 Projectors and Rear Lights

 

Looks to be a good list. FWIW, you should go directly to the 3.12" pulley and those injectors are overkill for your build (even with the smaller pulley).

 

Fast Intentions HFC's see build. Rob @ ZCG recommended the 720cc since im planning on doing a short block build down the road. I was also thinking about going with the 3.12 but Rob suggested to start with the 3.33 then upgrade later. Maybe I will just jump to the 3.12 instead..

 

Do you think the stock radiator is fine or should I upgrade to the koyo and thermostat?

 

It will be easy to swap injectors later, plus you may never actually do the build (this happens a lot, honestly) so I'd stick with 440s or 600s. Even with 600s, Rob wasn't able to get rid of my hot start issues so you don't want to go bigger than necessary.

No offense to Rob (love the dude, his shop is the only one that will touch my car nowadays, he's helped me out a lot), but the 3.33 pulley is weaksauce. Go with the 3.12 pulley.

Stock radiator is fine for most - only upgrade if you are having issues with coolant temps. No need for a t-stat.

 

Bigc thanks for you advice. I will chat with Rob.

 

I would take BIGC advice on upgrading to the 3.125 serpentine pulley. You will not be happy with the power you'll make with the 3.33 pulley.

 

Hey Bigc, Was your hot start issue ever corrected?

 

Hot starts are very difficult to correct. I have the 600cc injectors and sometimes it takes me 2 to 3 tries, on a very hot day, to get the car started.

 

You would get more feedback about your setup and the route/goals you want to achieve, if you go over to my350z forum.

 

Rob made some adjustments to lessen the hot start issue, but its still present. It has something to do with too much or too little fuel being delivered at startup when the ECU sees elevated coolant temps (someone who knows more, please chime in). I believe there's a table that can be adjusted based on coolant temp, but as of now, we haven't been able to get it completely dialed in.

The trick I use is to run my main engine fans (hit the A/C / heater) for a few minutes before I shut off the car. This brings coolant temps down enough that the hot start isn't too bad. Its a bandaid, but it works for me

 

Thanks guys!

 

Good to hear about your build coming along. Good luck!

 

Eh guys... I don't have much to add about the build- in my limited experience things look pretty good. I don't know much about the pulleys so I can't say much there...

I'm running the DW 850s and I have the hot start issues as well... and it sounds like all the guys from my shop running uprev and large-ish injectors do also. The reason given to me by the pro-tuner there was similar to that already mentioned. I just give it half gas and it starts- but yeah, without that half gas I'd have to crank it forever.

These guys were saying it was the DW plugs that didn't handle the hot starts properly. Maybe it's uprev?

700+ injectors and talk of a built short block? Are you even looking at the right FI option?

Oh and +1 with the my350z recommendation. They're a bit rougher around the edges over there but if you do your homework guys are pretty forthcoming with information.

 

Actually, I was thinking about going TT but being in Cali I decided to keep it semi-legal. I think as long as the blower has a carb stamp on it, it will help deter any piggy action or even the possiblity of getting Ref'd., if i get pulled over and asked to pop the hood. Reason Im sticking with the Vortech system.