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***update on my MAZDA flip key FOB mod. alternative to nissan key fob.

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  #31  
Old 09-07-2006, 12:04 PM
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Holy guacamole! You've taken hack jobs to a whole new level...at least for the level of hacking I'm used to. But it's a fine hack job at that! Mad props dude!
 
  #32  
Old 09-07-2006, 01:07 PM
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^^ +1
 
  #33  
Old 09-08-2006, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by KiDFuZioN
So I got the button to light up with an LED when you push the button, the only problem is that it blinks a couple of times everytime you press the button instead of blinking just one time. I have tried it and it works with all the buttons. To get the light you connect a lead from the gold pad near the 3rd leg of the IC1 to one side of the LED and connect the other lead from the LED to a ground. Look at the picture, the pad is in the red square.
[/IMG]

wow awesome! i'll try that tonight. btw.. where's a good grounding point near there?

you got pmed back.
 
  #34  
Old 09-08-2006, 12:51 AM
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I just used the ground for the battery, it seemed to work pretty well.
 
  #35  
Old 09-08-2006, 01:08 AM
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can you post pics of what it looks like after everything is put back together?
 
  #36  
Old 09-08-2006, 09:18 PM
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OMG!!!!!! i did it! holy crap. for the past 3 days, i didn't get any work done at my office cuz of this mod..it kept calling me..hahaha. but i got the key made and cut it myself to fit into the remote. and i did the circuit board work and it worked the first time! i yelled out "hellz yeah" after i heard the alarm horn and the doors unlock..ahahha.

thanks to accordfreak for all his hard work and kidfuzion for his input...u guys rock!
 
  #37  
Old 09-08-2006, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by oscottio
OMG!!!!!! i did it! holy crap. for the past 3 days, i didn't get any work done at my office cuz of this mod..it kept calling me..hahaha. but i got the key made and cut it myself to fit into the remote. and i did the circuit board work and it worked the first time! i yelled out "hellz yeah" after i heard the alarm horn and the doors unlock..ahahha.

thanks to accordfreak for all his hard work and kidfuzion for his input...u guys rock!
Did you install the LED for the remote? How far away can you use the remote right now?
 
  #38  
Old 09-08-2006, 11:22 PM
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congrats oscottio! and I bet it didn't take 6-7 hours to do right? i think maybe 3 at most haha..

and yeah what kidfusion asked, what is the range of the remote now? This is one last issue i'm having.. the range sucks! I'm thiking it might be the battery because I made a huge antenna for it..
 
  #39  
Old 09-08-2006, 11:53 PM
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how long did you make the wire used for the antenna?
 
  #40  
Old 09-09-2006, 03:38 AM
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i haven't done the l.e.d. yet, i'll try that next week.
as for the antenna, for now, i'm just using left over wire, maybe like 6 inches long. i put it between the board and the battery cuz that's the only space i can see it being able to fit without shaving some other part of the housing. distance of operation is about 6-10ft. so you have to be pretty close. the canadian dood used silver wire? do you guys know what that is?

wiring the board is about 3hrs if u work on it nonstop. i took breaks. the hard part was trying to align the switches in the right position so that it'll fit into the rubber pad holes. i used tissue paper under the switches to get the right height...lots of assembling and disassembling there..ugh.
 
  #41  
Old 09-09-2006, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by KiDFuZioN
I just used the ground for the battery, it seemed to work pretty well.
where's the ground for the battery? is that on the battery side of the housing that keeps the batter in place?
 
  #42  
Old 09-09-2006, 01:14 PM
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negative should be that big metal piece (according to the stock unit)

as for the antenna, you should try to use a length of wire that is comparable to the original length. antennae are designed for specific frequency ranges. this mean you can't just arbitrarily choose a length and expect to get optimum transmission/reception range. other factors that affect t/r range are the material used for the conductor, the thickness of the conductor and the dielectric the conductor is sitting on.

anyways, first try the original length, use this as a starting point and adjust the length up or down to see what helps. you can also try different gauge wires.
 
  #43  
Old 09-09-2006, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nm3th


negative should be that big metal piece (according to the stock unit)

as for the antenna, you should try to use a length of wire that is comparable to the original length. antennae are designed for specific frequency ranges. this mean you can't just arbitrarily choose a length and expect to get optimum transmission/reception range. other factors that affect t/r range are the material used for the conductor, the thickness of the conductor and the dielectric the conductor is sitting on.

anyways, first try the original length, use this as a starting point and adjust the length up or down to see what helps. you can also try different gauge wires.
would you happen to know what a resistor is used for in an antenna? If you look at R9 on the top left hand corner, it is placed between the negative part of the battery and the antenna, then is lead to the other side (top right) to C15. thanks
 
  #44  
Old 09-09-2006, 04:51 PM
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looks like r9||c18 which is in series with c19...this could be either a filter or a matching network.
 
  #45  
Old 09-09-2006, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by nm3th
a filter or a matching network.
filter for what?.. Can you explain matching network? thanks
 


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