I"m having a hell of an issue with my camshaft sensors in my 05 g35x. I initially bought a Beck/Arnley driver side camshaft sensor off of Rockauto. It gave me the VDC and SLip lights immediately after my first install. I removed it and installed a camshaft sensor bought directly from a Nissan dealership. It worked great at first and my car started and drove like normal but the SEL light came on after a few days and it took longer to start. The P0021 code came on so I checked the timing valve control solenoid. NOthing appeared to be wrong with it. So out of desperation I threw the Rockauto sensor back on. This time my ca had my first hard start today. The SLIP and VDC light came on and code P0345 is back on. THe SLIP and No VDC lip did turn of after subsequent restarts but the SEL light is still on along with code P0345. I'm starting to get really tired of this issue.

 

Alright so I read through all nine pages and there were a few people who had the same issue. In my case, I initially received the P0340 code with the SEL, VDC OFF, SLIP lights. I went to NAPA and bought both sensors to replace, I replaced them both, started the car and all lights momentarily went out but came back on. I re-checked the computer and now I'm receiving the P0345 code two times. Does any one know why changing both sensors didn't fix the problem and why once I replaced both sensors now the second bank is giving off a fault

 

^^It's a common belief on here that you take a chance with aftermarket sensors. Sometimes they work OK and a lot of times they have issues. I'd return the NAPA parts and go OEM. You shouldn't have any issues then or you may still have to replace your crankshaft position sensor as well. It seems to be tied into this trouble loop a lot of times.

 

hello guys i have recently bought a G35 2004 after 2 weeks the VDC AND SLIP lights came on after i turn the car off and on again it works normally and i went to the dealer he changed the tp sensor for me.. but the next day the same thing happened .. i went back to the mechanic after he checked it again but nth appears so he pulled off the computer and put it back again it worked clearly the car now after 2 months am having the same problem i went back to the dealer he said that the scanner is saying tp sensor is down so he tried to changed it but nothing worked he tried 5 other tp sensor and nothing worked at all even when he replaced my own it work at all the car is down and am so depressed and its been 3 days in garage he can't figure out whats the issue… PLEASE ANY HELP!!

 

Have you checked your brake fluid level? Sounds stupid, but it triggers stuff

 

YES !! my brake fluid is fine my brakes are fine cam sensor is fine crank sensor is fine speed … everything is fine .. the guy is being drawn in cable electricity all days

 

the car is not taking anymore benzin he changed 6 sensors and nothing worked
even my original one who i used to drive a bit in it its not working anymore

 

after a long search they are telling me its the main computer thats is damaged ... the weird thing is when i gave them the car it was running now its dead .. they r telling me that i need to replace a new computer... shall i fix mine ? get a used one ? or buy a new one that costs 2000$? any opinion ?

 

did you buy your car at the dealer? does your state have a lemon law?

 

Has anyone tried the maf cleaning and then MAF relearn? I do this all the time when I upload different maps. All the lights would come on while unplugged. Could be the results from a bad or dirty maf you guys are getting. Just a thought.


MAF relearn procedure goes as....( google search has it)

Make sure vehicle is at operating temps. ( 92c+)
With the vehicle off unplug the MAF harness.
Start the vehicle. The vehicle will try to idle itself.
Keep running for at least 10 seconds. Do not throttle it.
Pull and clear the DTC. Should give appropriate MAF code.
Plug back the harness and turn the vehicle on. Let idle for 10 minutes or go driving around.

I do this after a map reload to get better responses from the MAF readings. Every time before having OSIRIS, I was doing intake manifold swaps ( ported, 3.5 intake, test pipes, ETC) It would throw the dreaded p1283 code. I would do the MAF reset and never get that code again.

This is also great for a after ECU reset.

 

What year is your G35? I had a buddy with an 03 coupe that had the complete ECU and harness replaced. He had about 140k miles, but that shouldn't be an excuse for the computer and harness to give out. I can't remember well if he had to have the dealer reflash the ECU he got from the yard to make it work in his G.

EDIT- sorry just checked. Late or early model 04? I wouldn't be surprised if its leaky caps. Caps are rated at hours and temp... when the end comes they burst and leak onto the pcb and traces causing issues. I would love to one day open one of these Nissan ECU and see which caps (brand and ratings) they are using or the IC and fet.

 

well i bought it from a dealer but not a nissan dealer just a normal one, i was googling whats lemon law ? i dont think we have such thing .. besides if we do they won't ever be applied :/ .. my car yes its 2004 its kinda special edition one... i really dont know what to do ... i am scared to get a used computer and i wind up in a worst case or to pay for a new one and i discover later on it wasn't from it..

 

First find out if the ECU is bad via no communicating/burnt smell/ insufficient power supply/etc. Don't just assume without a proper diagnosis. I'm sure there are a few guys here that can bench test a ECU.

 

I had the same thing happen. Replaced my ECU for $1700. It ended up being a loose pin in the ECU harness. $1.99 at radio shack.

 

What part is it that you bought? My g35 is acting up takes a few seconds to start up, once I hit 60mph it does like a lil light jump and then the vdc off light aswell with the slip light turns on. Once I stop , turn off try turning back on it'll take a few seconds to turn on. I'll turn it off let it sit , then turn it back on and it turns on regular. Vdc , and slip light is off but engine light is on. But once u hit 60mph it'll do it again . Some times it'll just stall out of no where. It says camshaft sensor on the diagnostic, but I read and say it doesn't work. I see last post was awhile back so it might be fixed already? I need as much as info I am pregnant and wanna be safe while I'm driving