What did you do to the G today?
#8071
I drove ttrank's car solo
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: By the sea, Tx
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#8073
Yeah I thought that coupe/sedan didn't matter as well. That comp rod was the only one with that option and it was the one of the two that didn't come with a new shim and hardware, and the boot was removable vs integrated into the arm.
Luckily one of the Advance Autos in town has the one marked for coupe so I'll go swap it out.
Hopefully I'll replace what's left this weekend. I also need to swap the brake lines because for whatever reason of all the bolts/nuts I had to remove the only two seized ones were the nuts holding the break line blocks to the shock body. Ended up cutting off the brackets to make it work for the time being. Decided I might as well upgrade and go with Z1 premium stainless lines in he process.
Luckily one of the Advance Autos in town has the one marked for coupe so I'll go swap it out.
Hopefully I'll replace what's left this weekend. I also need to swap the brake lines because for whatever reason of all the bolts/nuts I had to remove the only two seized ones were the nuts holding the break line blocks to the shock body. Ended up cutting off the brackets to make it work for the time being. Decided I might as well upgrade and go with Z1 premium stainless lines in he process.
#8074
Non brembo mines an 03 auto 5 speed. My rear brake calipers are toast so I found some beck arnly rebuilt ones on carid. I do the install work myself
#8076
Replaced the other ball joint, getting it out was easy, I think it took me longer to get the wheel off. Getting it back in was a pain. I went to 3 different parts stores and none of the kits have the correct cup for installation, they were either a smidge too big or small. I made do but the sleeve kept slipping off the ball joint.
The compression rod I need wasn't in stock locally so they had to order it, hopefully it'll be the correct one with new hardware.
Stainless brake lines are waiting to go in as well. Idk how but with replacing 4 shocks, 4 control arms and two ball joints, the only seized nuts were on the brake lines. Went with Z1 premium stainless lines and opted to get new hard lines off the calipers because those are seized too. Hopefully next weekend for those.
The compression rod I need wasn't in stock locally so they had to order it, hopefully it'll be the correct one with new hardware.
Stainless brake lines are waiting to go in as well. Idk how but with replacing 4 shocks, 4 control arms and two ball joints, the only seized nuts were on the brake lines. Went with Z1 premium stainless lines and opted to get new hard lines off the calipers because those are seized too. Hopefully next weekend for those.
#8077
Finally got around to fixing my blown diff bushings with the Whiteline kit before a 300 mile trip with my G full of passengers. Wow, what a difference, it's actually worth the 6 hours of swearing, inhaling rubber fumes, and sawz'alling needed to do this! I instantly noticed it pulling out of my driveway, and on the highway I can now keep the G in its powerband without any jerkiness, clunking, or vibrations upon application or removal of throttle input. This had the overall affect of making me drive like an idiot during this entire trip.
The $20 DIY catch can I installed using the compressor water filter from Home Depot sprung a vaccuum leak during this trip from the little plastic valve under the bowl which clearly couldn't stand up to a VQ35 doing WOT pulls down I95 for 6 hours straight, which resulted in a rough idle. Plugged that, everything is good to go!
The $20 DIY catch can I installed using the compressor water filter from Home Depot sprung a vaccuum leak during this trip from the little plastic valve under the bowl which clearly couldn't stand up to a VQ35 doing WOT pulls down I95 for 6 hours straight, which resulted in a rough idle. Plugged that, everything is good to go!
Last edited by cswlightning; 02-19-2018 at 10:31 AM.
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EPiK (02-20-2018)
#8078
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
#8079
I'm sure I took much longer than needed, I've never dropped a diff before so I spent time doing things like trying for 30 minutes to impact off the driveshaft bolts from the actual bolt before I tried using a box wrench on the nut and got it off in 30 seconds. Removing the bushings wasn't all that "bad", it just involved about an hour and a half of attacking the rubber with drills, torches, and screwdrivers to get the inner race out - from that point it was probably 5 minutes with a sawzall to get the outer shell out.
Access to a press and/or that tool would make this job much more of a standard "remove bolts, install new parts, tighten bolts" kind of job, but I'm working out of my parents' garage and don't yet know a lot of car people in my area (working on that) so access to tools is limited.
Access to a press and/or that tool would make this job much more of a standard "remove bolts, install new parts, tighten bolts" kind of job, but I'm working out of my parents' garage and don't yet know a lot of car people in my area (working on that) so access to tools is limited.
#8080
#8081
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by cswlightning
I'm sure I took much longer than needed, I've never dropped a diff before so I spent time doing things like trying for 30 minutes to impact off the driveshaft bolts from the actual bolt before I tried using a box wrench on the nut and got it off in 30 seconds. Removing the bushings wasn't all that "bad", it just involved about an hour and a half of attacking the rubber with drills, torches, and screwdrivers to get the inner race out - from that point it was probably 5 minutes with a sawzall to get the outer shell out.
Access to a press and/or that tool would make this job much more of a standard "remove bolts, install new parts, tighten bolts" kind of job, but I'm working out of my parents' garage and don't yet know a lot of car people in my area (working on that) so access to tools is limited.
Access to a press and/or that tool would make this job much more of a standard "remove bolts, install new parts, tighten bolts" kind of job, but I'm working out of my parents' garage and don't yet know a lot of car people in my area (working on that) so access to tools is limited.
#8082
#8083
#8085
Thank you! They are slowly growing on me.
Just received STILLEN’s cross-drilled rotors, their metal matrix pads and Z1’s stainless lines for the Akebono’s. Should look pretty good.
The front rotors are HEAVY, but not enough for two-pieces. Lol!
Will be throwing them on when the weather gets better.
Just received STILLEN’s cross-drilled rotors, their metal matrix pads and Z1’s stainless lines for the Akebono’s. Should look pretty good.
The front rotors are HEAVY, but not enough for two-pieces. Lol!
Will be throwing them on when the weather gets better.