You should always replace ball joints as a pair and the compression rods are the same coupe/sedan other than the sedan X model. Congrats on all the work you got done, the Bilsteins are a great choice!

 

Yeah replace that comp rod ASAP before you get pre-worn shocks from all that lateral movement. Ball joint too, bad ball joints = dynamic toe wear.

Nice job replacing half

 

Yeah I thought that coupe/sedan didn't matter as well. That comp rod was the only one with that option and it was the one of the two that didn't come with a new shim and hardware, and the boot was removable vs integrated into the arm.

Luckily one of the Advance Autos in town has the one marked for coupe so I'll go swap it out.

Hopefully I'll replace what's left this weekend. I also need to swap the brake lines because for whatever reason of all the bolts/nuts I had to remove the only two seized ones were the nuts holding the break line blocks to the shock body. Ended up cutting off the brackets to make it work for the time being. Decided I might as well upgrade and go with Z1 premium stainless lines in he process.

 

Non brembo mines an 03 auto 5 speed. My rear brake calipers are toast so I found some beck arnly rebuilt ones on carid. I do the install work myself

 

When I did my balljoints I sprayed them with wd40 for a week before removing them and they came out easily.

 

 

Finally got around to fixing my blown diff bushings with the Whiteline kit before a 300 mile trip with my G full of passengers. Wow, what a difference, it's actually worth the 6 hours of swearing, inhaling rubber fumes, and sawz'alling needed to do this! I instantly noticed it pulling out of my driveway, and on the highway I can now keep the G in its powerband without any jerkiness, clunking, or vibrations upon application or removal of throttle input. This had the overall affect of making me drive like an idiot during this entire trip.

The $20 DIY catch can I installed using the compressor water filter from Home Depot sprung a vaccuum leak during this trip from the little plastic valve under the bowl which clearly couldn't stand up to a VQ35 doing WOT pulls down I95 for 6 hours straight, which resulted in a rough idle. Plugged that, everything is good to go!

 

Wow 6 hours.... for anyone doing this in the future I highly suggest finding someone that has the Z1 OEM bushing removal tool and borrowing it, made removing mine pretty simple.

 

I'm sure I took much longer than needed, I've never dropped a diff before so I spent time doing things like trying for 30 minutes to impact off the driveshaft bolts from the actual bolt before I tried using a box wrench on the nut and got it off in 30 seconds. Removing the bushings wasn't all that "bad", it just involved about an hour and a half of attacking the rubber with drills, torches, and screwdrivers to get the inner race out - from that point it was probably 5 minutes with a sawzall to get the outer shell out.

Access to a press and/or that tool would make this job much more of a standard "remove bolts, install new parts, tighten bolts" kind of job, but I'm working out of my parents' garage and don't yet know a lot of car people in my area (working on that) so access to tools is limited.

 

New rims and tires installed. Not sure how I feel about them yet, but either way, they’re on the car. Had to finish in the rain. Lol!

My Nitto’s where shot anyways, so at least some fresh rubber.

 

Pretty much how I did mine last year, haha. Nice find man

 

What are the specs

 

Fronts are 20x9”, 20 offset w/ 10 mil spacers.

Rears are 20x10.5”, 30 offset w/ 15 mil spacers.

Front: 255/30/20
Rear: 285/30/20

 

looks good

 

Thank you! They are slowly growing on me.

Just received STILLEN’s cross-drilled rotors, their metal matrix pads and Z1’s stainless lines for the Akebono’s. Should look pretty good.

The front rotors are HEAVY, but not enough for two-pieces. Lol!

Will be throwing them on when the weather gets better.