Looking so fresh. Love that people still care about these cars.

 

Car looks great! I do however genuinely think the oem rear still looks the best on these cars. Just cleaner and maybe a bit more toned / more naturally sporty proportions. I might be an outlier though with this opinion.

 

I am assuming you are speaking to the rear bumper cover. If that is the case then you are not an outlier.

Although I do like the CS rear, I prefer oem as well. Given I destroyed my bumper by melting it; I figured I'd give the CS a go as it was cheaper. I think it looks alright though.

 

Big fan of the silver hood over the carbon fiber

 

turned out real nice. i have been hesitant about adding cf and paint.

 

I have always loved the CA rear, Op did an aggressive style so well... it isn't over the top!

 

Thanks! With the hood, I was surprised that there wasn't a big difference in weight between oem and the carbon. The trunk on the other hand was a different story.

Appreciate that. I bought the car during my first enlistment and I've had the car, much like a lot of us, for many years. Its paid for and I cant bring myself to sell it. First, I have too much money in the car that I'd never even see any inkling of a reasonable return. Secondly, I have been buying and hoarding parts over the years to the point that one of my spare bedrooms is unusable. To be honest, I don't know what is all in there... I do know my wife sure doesn't like it; that's for sure.

Anyway, I am too old for anything over the top. I do feel the G35 has one of those timeless body styles much like the Supra. I'm now rambling.

Here is one more picture that I messed with on the ol iPhone. I like it so much, its my new avatar. Haha! (It's such a small thing, but I love how the roof lip is damn near identical in profile to the new duckbill trunk.)

Thanks again!

 

If u happen to have an extra MD plenum spacer in your room full of parts I am interested

 

Because it isnt dry carbon fiber. Its probably a fiberglass hood with layers of CF. Thats why if you were to weigh a fiberglass hood and then the same hood but in a CF option. The fiberglass one would weigh less

 

I have the MD MREV2 as well as their 5/16" spacer installed currently.

There is a Cosworth plenum somewhere in the room though that will replace that setup, however that is getting installed during the engine build and unfortunately, I have no idea when that is going to be.

If I could do it all over again, I would have just LS or 2J swapped it, (Preferably 2J) but I am too deep in parts for the VQ to change course now.

 

Correct. It is most definitely not dry carbon fiber and as you stated, it does contain fiberglass. The main structure is fiberglass with the top being the epoxied layer of a carbon fiber sheet(s).

 

I thought the MREV2 made more power than the Cosworth unit. I found one dyno comparison well over a month ago and decided to get the kinetix racing plenum instead....besides, the Cosworth unit is discontinued...and probably because it didn't perform well.

 

Installed an aluminum Z1motorsport underbody splash shield today. Instead of having to remove around 14 bolts to get the plastic OEM one off, now I just need to get 2 off to access the oil pan and filter.

Putting the shield on was easy, but what came before that was a bit of a nightmare. The old plastic one was held on with zipties in some places since someone along the way snapped off a bolt inside the chassis. The wheel splash guard for the driver side has a U-bolt hole for the underbody shield which was also ripped off. I had to get the broken bolt out before I could put the new shield on, and that wasn't easy.

The bolt stem was flush with the middle chassis brace, so I couldn't get it out with pliers or a dremel+flathead. I tried drilling a smaller hole in it and using an easyout, but the damn easyout broke inside it. When I told the guys at the local hardware store my predicament, they laughed and said "good luck.. you're gonna need it." I decided to hit it with a dremel grinder bit, and after hours of persistence, managed to get the easyout.. and most of what was left of the screw. I tried another easyout, now that I had more surface area eaten away, and it bit and started turning. But somehow it went into the hole rather than out. I tried taking it out with pliers, but it just popped into the chassis hole when I lost grip. Oh man..

For the next 2 hours I tried jamming my fingers into whatever holes I could to feel around for it. Held a flashlight with the teeth, used tiny pliers, and some cut up/bent coat hangers, and finally managed to snag it out. I looked at the hole the next day, and saw that most of the threads had been ground away along with the bolt and extractor. Had to drill out a new hole and tap on some new threads, and finally, it was ready.

It was a major pain to get it all sorted, but I've got no regrets. It looks great, the new bolts have zero corrosion, and it'll make future oil changes a pinch.

 

got back from the alignment and the "Tool" at the tire shop told me that my (less than 2 year old) wheel bearing (driver side) was going bad.
(Thinking to myself: Timken?? nah)
Driving, The steering is precise and fluid.
There's a noise coming from somewhere sounds like metal grinding.
Turns out the idiot doing the alignment bent the Shield on the rear of the driver side rotor so it connects with the rotor. Had to bend it back out.
(Cheap **** to try and get me to go back to the shop)
1 week later: noticing more vibration through the wheel. AND. Hearing a 'POP' upon launch and slowing.
Thinking: Ball joint? Compression rod? Upper control arm going? WTF?!?!
Just ordered Megan Racing Ball joints for front knuckle.
Just ordered SPL front compression rods (Racing series)
Next $300 goes to Z1 Upper control arms (adjustable)
The front suspension will be brand fukkkkN new when I'm done.
(I hate pressing out ball joints>>>)

 

I want to say that’s the case with just with simple bolt-on’s.

They are proven to make power with head work, more aggressive cams and higher RPM N/A setups and shine in boosted apps.

Although the first version with the carbon caps did have issues with “high” boost. Luckily mine is the second, CNC’d version. I also have the NWP TB upgrade as well.

Z1 said they are proven to make power with the correct setup.

Anyway, a Ti blower upgrade will accompany the engine build replacing the SCi, but by that time it will be installed and I won’t have a MREV2 vs Cosworth back to back at a somewhat higher boost level.

Im hoping to hit 25 -27psi without belt slip, well at least that’s the plan.