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Fender chipped?

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Old 07-13-2019, 04:01 PM
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Fender chipped?

So I recently got dropped on coils and added some 350z anniversary wheels but I havenít got the time to actually roll the fenders.The wheels Iím running are 18x8 in the front and 18x8.5 in the rear.Anyways when I got the car aligned the tech had told me that he added negative camber on the rear so I could drive the car without rubbing until I roll the fenders.Ive been driving the car for 2 weeks right now and I cannot find anyone whoís serious about rolling fenders in my area and because if that this the result.It looks like a paint chip in my rear fender/QP.Would this cause an issue when rolling??? How much would it cost to repair the chip?? I have no clue how it got there as I donít rub at all.
 
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Old 07-13-2019, 04:16 PM
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It'll be fine, just hit it with some sealant/paint/something once they're rolled.

Call around to local body shops and ask about who they recommend to roll the fenders, usually whoever is building hot rods in your area will have a huge network of folks with the expertise.

Or buy the roller and an adjustable heat gun and do it yourself, it's really not hard you just have to apply the heat slowly, use an infrared thermometer like a cheapo $20 amazon one and don't cook the paint. Then sell it all on craigslist and get most of your money back.

You can get a cheap roller for $60, a cheap heat gun for $25, a cheap IR thermometer for $15 so for around $100 you can do it yourself. You'll probably be able to sell it all for exactly what you paid for it.
 
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
It'll be fine, just hit it with some sealant/paint/something once they're rolled.

Call around to local body shops and ask about who they recommend to roll the fenders, usually whoever is building hot rods in your area will have a huge network of folks with the expertise.

Or buy the roller and an adjustable heat gun and do it yourself, it's really not hard you just have to apply the heat slowly, use an infrared thermometer like a cheapo $20 amazon one and don't cook the paint. Then sell it all on craigslist and get most of your money back.

You can get a cheap roller for $60, a cheap heat gun for $25, a cheap IR thermometer for $15 so for around $100 you can do it yourself. You'll probably be able to sell it all for exactly what you paid for it.
Just got them rolled today and I noticed that thereís some paint flakes that are falling off every time I rubbed them but overall itís smooth.Im most like going to have to get them resanded and repainted correct?? The paint flakes are confetti like
 
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Old 07-14-2019, 04:14 PM
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Usually a Nissan paint pen will work fine for that stuff. Just shale it really well to mix it up and for the inside edges where it's hidden (or larger missing spots) use the brush on the opposite end of the cap.

Be sure to thoroughly clean the car first and wipe down any spots that need touch-up with isopropyl alcohol first.
 
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Old 07-15-2019, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Usually a Nissan paint pen will work fine for that stuff. Just shale it really well to mix it up and for the inside edges where it's hidden (or larger missing spots) use the brush on the opposite end of the cap.

Be sure to thoroughly clean the car first and wipe down any spots that need touch-up with isopropyl alcohol first.
my driver side fender is rolled perfectly with a little paint flakes but overall smooth but my passenger fender has a small rust chip and the paint chip from the picture I took above.Is the exposed metal from the passenger side going to cause rust down the road?? Can I leave it how it is and reseal it at the end of the summer before winter gets here or should I re seal it asap?
 
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Old 07-15-2019, 02:41 PM
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Anything that's down to bare metal IS rusting, weather conditions determine how quickly it will rust.

Personally I fix chips about once a month on my fleet of vehicles, those paint pens they sell are fantastic, (duplicolor manufactures them for every manufacturer now, just buy it at Nissan though) first you use the chisel tip to scrape away any rust (skip this step if the primer is still intact), then prep with alcohol, then apply paint either with the valve action tip for smaller stuff or the brush on the back of the bottle for larger chips.

I usually skip the clear coat though, if you want to apply it just wait until the next week and clean the paint chip with more alcohol. I don't like how the clear leaves a larger bubble on the paint and it's more noticeable.

Finish the final week with whatever wash/sealant/wax you prefer and it's good to go for at least 5 more years. I occasionally have to hit chips that I've previously fixed but it's uncommon. It keeps the chassis/body from rusting and I usually don't keep a vehicle more than 20 years or so, it's just got to last that long, not eternally. If this was a show car or something you plan on keeping for 50 years then you would probably want to go the full route of sanding each chip flat, polishing, clear, more polishing, etc.

Personally idgaf if you can see where I hit the car with touch up paint, you have to get really close to the paint and actively LOOK for them to see it but there's probably 200+ chip repairs on my car. The important thing is NO RUST and the touch up will prevent the paint from lifting and peeling due to weather.
 
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