I have a 2005 g35 and realized that my cruise control buttons have stopped working.I recently changed my clockspring about one year ago because of a fault horn and it ended up fixing my horn and my buttons but just recently my buttons have stopped working but my horn still remains.
I ended replacing my clockspring with a new one thinking that was the case but wasn’t. I also check replaced the cruise control switch on the break pedal and still nothing. Out of ideas and need help

 

Check the cruise interlock switch on the clutch pedal too if it's a 6MT.

EDIT: Also, make sure the cruise is actually not working, turn it on, hit the set button, see if it works. Just because the light on the dash isn't turning on doesn't mean your cruise control doesn't work. Those dash lights are notorious for misbehaving, my SET light hasn't worked in years.

 

cruise control forsure doesn’t work because I tried to switch maps(tuned) to the kill switch and tried turning on the car and it started meaning it never changed maps
If anyone has any idea please let me know
I’ve changed the clockspring ,new switches , and cruise switch
anything helps

 

It's probably still a spiral cable/clockspring issue if you lost all the buttons but you can test the continuity of the circuit by disconnecting the battery, disconnecting the ECM harnesses, then using a digital multimeter to measure resistance on pins 99 (green/yellow stripe) and 67 (black/white stripe) on the ECM harness F108. It should read either open or some really high resistance value and as you toggle each switch that value on the meter should change. It will be a different value for each switch, they each have a resistor between them and the ECM supplies 5vdc, so the main on/off switch will send back 5vdc, cancel switch sends back 4vdc, on/set switch sends back 3vdc, resume/accelerate switch sends back 2vdc. That way the ECM only needs 2 wires for the whole system and it just watches for what voltage is present on the wire to determine function.

If it does change then the problem is likely with the ECM, if it does NOT change then the circuit is open somewhere next test right at the spiral cable (double stacked 8 pin harness, 4x2), same color wires.

If you still don't see any resistance change at the spiral cable then check the other side of the harness which leads to the steering wheel buttons themselves (single stacked 8 pin harness 8x1) wires change color to red and black.

This will help isolate where the actual problem is.

 

I ended up taking it to my mechanic, I’m not the best with volts and electrical stuff but we tested the wires and the red wire that went to the cruise control button had 4 volts then we clicked it and it seemed to get grounded and dropped to 0, also checked on the live data chart and cruise control does turn on but turns off right away
ANY IDEAS ?

 

There's a lot of components to this and reasons why the system would self-cancel.

If you press any two buttons at the same time, if the brake or clutch pedal switch is actuated, changing gears (6MT only), or if the VDC system turns on.

Next I would inspect the ASCD interlock switch on the brake and clutch pedal, it might just BARELY be closed and even the slightest brake /clutch pedal movement might be opening the switch. If you have a 5AT disregard the clutch pedal stuff.




If that's not it I would just schedule a 1 hour diagnostic at Nissan / Infiniti because they can quickly check all the data to the ECM with the dealership Consult-II/III tool. Otherwise you could spend a LOT of time chasing this issue.

 

I have already check them but just to be sure ima order new ones and replace then again if not I’m going to take it to Infiniti and I will keep u updated

 

Would this also cause a no crank? Friday was the last day I was able to start the car (2005 6MT)
I notice while I was driving that I could not get the cruise control to set. The Green Light would come one
but I could not get it to set a speed.

I parked the car. Got back in the car it started and I drove home... Again I tried the cruise control. It was a no go...
just green light on dash when I hit the button on the wheel. Same thing Light on no set.

Parked the car. Yesterday I went to start the car no crank. Nothing. The fuel pump primes, I have 40psi of Fuel presure according to the gauge I installed.
But I turn the key Dash light come on... but when I turn to start... its crickets.

I checked the battery... it shows 12.12 volts (not sure that is enough) So I have the battery on charge. \
But I am wondering if my issue are related to that crusie control and maybe this switch.

I did install a new gas pedal 3 mons ago... Last note. I have never had to press the clutch in to start.
I guess the person before me did something to bypass that??

Any thoughts?

 

If the engine won't even crank then it's usually either the battery or the starter.

Check for OBD2 codes too, too many failed start attempts with an unrecognized key will put the NATS/IVIS security system into an interlocked mode where it will stop trying to start the engine.

 

Thank you for the info!

Turns out it was the clutch swtich. The driver before me did a clutch switch override. In the high heat of the summer the electical tape he had on came undone and the the jumper he used had fallen out. Being new to the 35, I did not know that you had to jump the pins do when I looked at the connector the first time I did not realize it had to be jumped. In my second gen Eclipse I did not have to jump the switch, you just diconnect the connector from the clutch. After some searching of the wire bundle I found the gooped up tape with the jumper inside.
I plugged the connector back into the pedal.. all is well.

Again thanks for the suggestions. I will keep them in mind on the next no crank no start issue that I am bound to have.

 

I recommend fixing the clutch switch, you'll never be able to use your cruise control if it's taped closed since that switch will cancel cruise control.