yea thats it exactly, it happens after the tranny gets warm and the noise goes away when i step on the clutch. sometimes i will get a slight knock that i can feel and hear when the car is at idle. i dont ever loose power when im driving so i dont think its a major issue but like i said the only problem i have noticed a little more lately is trouble shifting but only from first to second ( i think its more of a weather problem ) what do you think?

 

Interesting, seems like maybe that can try to resurface the dual mass flywheel by that I mean some other shop not the dealer. Or get a Luk replacement unit for half the price. The run out is probably too high for whatever reason.

 

Stephan, from your description, I would bet you lunch that you have a lightweight flywheel in there and the 1-2 shifting difficulty is unrelated. Personally, I would enjoy the fact that your G is definitely faster as a result of the flywheel, and the chatter is an unavoidable consequence. If you really don't like it, I'm guessing you could get an OEM flywheel from someone on the forum pretty cheaply, but it is NOT a trivial task to install it!

A tranny fluid change may help your shifting issue. I've been using Redline MT90 fluid with great success, I change it every winter (but my car sees a lot of track use).

--Bryce

 

thanks for the info ill keep it in mind, also quick unrelated question. Im a little short on the cash situation but i want to improve the way my G looks and sounds. i have already tinted the windows, installed a nismo intake and had a amplified sub and ipod interface put in. i want to keep it a basic as i can but still catch eyes. i am going to be getting rims and tires (as well as lowering it ) soon so i already have that checked off but i cant afford a full exhaust so i just wanted to know what you think the best way to get a deep and louder tone without spending to much. i also wanted to know the best way to gain a little extra HP and torque. thanks for the feedback

 

So you got rid of the torsional spring in the DM flywheel with the single mass unit you have now then... do you know whether or not the clutch disc itself is sprung? So just what setup do you have now exactly?

For the exhaust consider using cherry bomb glasspacks the 25" ones are only $20 at pep boys but dont put them to close to the headers especially if your straight piped, they wont last long with all that heat going through them.

 

I would totally have to agree, I'm more comfortable looking at it that way. Especially since my noise goes away as soon as I depress the clutch pedal the slightest bit. Lightweight flywheel ftw! As for the shifting....I had the stealership replace the tranny fluid and I swear it got a bit rougher, I want to try either the redline or the royal purple synchro max come spring time.

 

I used the royal purple in my car and liked it. havent had any problems so far, With regards to the chatter I have a general question for everyone. I def hear the chatter and bought the car with an aftermarket performanc clutch and flywheel but I dont know what setup I have. I dont get the chatter in nuetral though.. I get chatter when I start rolling at really low Rpm's .. that normal too? side note my clutch just started slipping I was looking into the Jwt combo.. any thoughts?

 

Yes, that's normal. There are two different kinds of chatter: one is the "cement mixer" noise (heard in neutral when using lightweight flywheels, never felt), and the other is clutch engagement chatter (heard and definitely felt when slipping the clutch from a dead stop). The first is directly related to lightweight flywheels, and the second varies from car to car. Most "performance" clutches tend to chatter more than most "OEM" clutches, but that's not a hard and fast rule. Personally, I've chosen to use a very lightweight a flywheel with an OEM clutch and pressure plate, in the hopes of minimizing chatter while increasing performance. If I had a boosted motor, though, I would definitely go with an aftermarket clutch that could handle more torque.

--Bryce

 

To answer Stephan's question in reply #19, I have an OEM exhaust, so unfortunately I can't comment on aftermarket exhausts. I've heard a Borla exhaust, though, and it sounded surprisingly "mustang V8ish". Very cool if that's what you're looking for. My recommendation on adding a bit of HP and torque is to go the easiest route, which is to remove weight instead. I'm guessing what you're looking for is a better HP/weight ratio, rather than a high HP number on a dyno. Lightweight wheels, lightweight pulleys, lightweight battery, etc... Your car will accelerate better, brake better, and turn better. More HP will only accelerate better. If you have OEM Brembos, Stoptech makes "drop in" 2-piece rotors that remove around 14lbs from the car, and it's unsprung rotating mass (the WORST kind of weight from a performance standpoint). DISCLAIMER: I will soon be a retailer of Stoptech brake products.

--Bryce

 

From what I can gather the OEM clutch seems to have a sprung hub which would help you out. Looking up some prices you guys are way better off then I am with the Acura CL-S 6spd prices Best I could find is flywheels in the $600 range and $1250 for clutch kit/flywheel combo, so thats a plus for the VQ's

 

thanks bryce. Yea my car has an aps st, so I am trying to find a good middle of the road peformance clutch. I dont race the care much, but I drive it everyday. Any other clutch recommendations? Also if my clutch is just starting to slip at high rpms in high gears will I need to replace clutch and flywheel if i already have a performance flywheel. I am curious bc I dont know what setup the car has right now and I wont know until I pull it apart, but I dont want to take the clutch out then see that I need to order a flywheel to when I can just buy a combo and not waste time and money. So guess my question is it better to replace both clutch n flywheel together or can I cut my existing flywheel?

 

Same issue here, I've had it since I had the car and just lived with it.. Kinda dissapointed in the whole car as my old 5 spd lexus sc300 held up much beter and never had any interior panel problems like the G... But the power difference was great... If the clutch isn't slipping I wouldn't worry about the chatter.

 

Normally resurfacing a flywheel is OK to do once. Some flywheels have a replacable friction surface that would let you make it good as new-- it will be obvious when you get in there to take a look. I would strongly recommend having your new pressure plate and flywheel dynamically balanced as a unit, the difference in smoothness of the engine is amazing, even with a very lightweight flywheel (mine is 13lbs I think). Unfortunately I can't recommend a specific aftermarket clutch, I've only used the OEM one. If you have any normally aspirated application (other than a whole-hog 4.2L stroker all motor build or something), I'd stay with the stock clutch and flywheel. For boosted/NOS applications, Exedy has a great reputation but I can't speak from personal experience.

--Bryce