MD Isothermal Copper Plenum Question
#1
MD Isothermal Copper Plenum Question
First off, I live in NY so I know I have to get the copper plenum spacer versus the normal one. I realize that the copper one comes with an extra piece that fits near the throttle body. How much more difficult is the install due to this? And does the engine gasket included with the kit make a huge difference? I don't feel like removing the bottom part of the plenum since I am scared about dropping something into the engine. Any tips on the install will be appreciated. Thanks.
#2
Nice Video you can watch about installation:
Also if you don't know we have the Motordyne copper Iso on special too.
http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172
Also if you don't know we have the Motordyne copper Iso on special too.
http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172
#3
Also if you don't know we have the Motordyne copper Iso on special too.
http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172[/quote]
How much for the 5/16 copper iso & the MREV2?
http://www.b2autodesigns.com/product...roducts_id=172[/quote]
How much for the 5/16 copper iso & the MREV2?
#4
First off, I live in NY so I know I have to get the copper plenum spacer versus the normal one. I realize that the copper one comes with an extra piece that fits near the throttle body. How much more difficult is the install due to this? And does the engine gasket included with the kit make a huge difference? I don't feel like removing the bottom part of the plenum since I am scared about dropping something into the engine. Any tips on the install will be appreciated. Thanks.
#5
#6
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Smart idea using the towel, installing the copper gasket is a good idea no matter where you live. It's all about isolating the plenum from the heat of the engine block which kills HP. If you don't have a torque wrench and the knowledge to use it I'd have someone do the install for you. Torque specs on those bolts are crucial and over tightening them could cause a night mare.
Gary
Gary
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#8
Installing the copper TB piece is not hard. I suggest going that route with your spacer options. Feel free to PM me with any questions when you're doing your install. I'll walk you through it if you have trouble. Took me about 2 hours total my first time. I wish I spent a little longer cleaning out the caked on oil in the upper plenum, but I was anxious to get er done.
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Did my install of the 5/16 copper spacer last weekend. Had a friend help, not all that difficult. I did the copper plate between the throttle body and the intake as well. Cleaned out my throttle body while I was at it. Definitely needed it. Used the throttle body cleaner to clean the upper and lower plenum too. Hardest part is getting all the hoses hooked back on after putting it back together. I unhooked my battery and let the car sit overnight before doing the install. Did not have to do a throttle body reset after. Great mod! Car sounds like a beast, and pulls like mad. Engine was still cool to the touch after my test drive, which is amazing.
#13
Sorry, that was a dumb question, just had a bit of a brain fart. What would I need a ft-lbs torque wrench for? Just wondering if I should get one when I order the inch-lbs torque wrench.
Thanks again!
#14
Some ft-lb torque wrenches don't read low enough that you can't use them for in-lbs. Honestly in the long run its best to have both an in-lb and a ft-lb torque wrench. My in-lb one is 1/4" drive, and my ft-lb one is 3/8" drive.
Lots of the fasteners on the engine and chassis have specific torque values and/or sequences. (iex lower intake manifold, head studs, lug nuts, etc)
Lots of the fasteners on the engine and chassis have specific torque values and/or sequences. (iex lower intake manifold, head studs, lug nuts, etc)
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RA102223
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
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08-15-2015 09:24 PM
516, copper, difficult, g35, install, installation, installing, iso, isothermal, lower, plenum, question, remove, spacer, thermal