i want s/c eventually but dont wanna have to get a new motor in a yr or so. i know im gonna need pistons, rods, gaskets but not sure what else?

 

I know Cosworth do a lot of stuff for the VQ35DE, like pistons, rods, heads, plenum, not sure about the crank, but i have heard that they can run up to flywheel 400BHP on std internals, although personally i wouldn't want to go any more than 350-360, as they don't seem to be a particularly strong motor.

 

Not sure why you think that. IMO any engine that will tolerate near-doubling of its output on stock internals is plenty strong.

 

OP I think you should search and learn alot before attempting a project like this, if not you are going to waste your time and money...

 

And not make two threads practically the same in one section.

 

stock internals will hold 400, so anything else will be plenty.

 

Hahaha that also. Why do all noobs do this?

 

If isn't an issue then just swap to a built long-block

 

The VQ35DE was built to a spec and price, and unlike some older designs was not an over engineered and inherently strong engine unlike the 2JZGTE for example which is quite happy at 5-600BHP on std internals.

The VQ does not have pistons or rods that will take FI, please feel free to show me an example of a FI VQ engine that is running over 400BHP on STD internals, let alone double.

 

^To me that means crank HP, not WHP, and there are a lot of G's with stock blocks running that much.

https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-...-you-push.html

 

just do basics..unless ur going TT, SC's are only good for about 450-500whp on 11-13psi...id recommend cp pistons 8 :1 :1,eagle rods,arp headstuds,550cc injectors,stage1 fuel return..as for gastkets, youll need an FI gastket kit..id also recommend getting exhaust,HFC's,and maybe a performance manifold such as the kinetix..it wont be cheap but if u go FI its just a matter of time b4 it has to be done

 

It means crank BHP to me too, not the over inflated WBHP figures i see bandied about, had a quick look at the link, i would like to see just what some of the claims to high WBHP on stock blocks actually look like when connected to a proper engine dyno

I have seen very few dynos that read with any real accuracy, and many are calibrated to make customers happy, also as BHP is calculated from torque, a lot of those figures have no chance of being accurate.