Definitely. But, as most others have stated, I would not mod it as extensively as I have.

 

I love the G but living in a rainy area that only sees good sunshine for a few months out of the year I think I'd probably get an Evolution. It'd be safer in the rain and drivable in the snow. It also seems like it'd be easier to drive; that way my wife can drive it as teaching her how to drive my 6MT wasn't a success.

My G doesn't have any power-adders yet (installing a Z-tube with an Apex'i filter tonight) nor does it have aftermarket suspension so it's not too quick either.

 

Hell yeah an 2007 mt or a g37xs coupe

 

I did... On my 2nd. Plan on keeping this for as long as possible. This will be my daily until it dies then it will become my project car. The G coupe is my Supra, NSX, 240sx... I will love this forever.

 

Absolutely. I've bought almost all of my mods second hand to keep the price down and cut down on depreciation and have saved a ton of money going that route. I'm going to build a new engine with forged internals to eliminate the oil consumption(even though mine is only 1qt/4000miles). After I do that and replace some bushings, my babygirl should be a 300+whp, sexy, reliable DD for many, many miles to come. I'm also pulling 27 mpg highway.

For those of you having electrical problems, try cleaning all of your grounds. Even cleaning some of them will have a large impact on relieving the stress on your electrical system. My coupe has not had a single electrical problem so far(knock on wood)

 

Yes, but I wouldn't have done all the mods if I were starting over. Maybe '06 coupe 19" wheels but nothing else. That way I'd have all this extra $$....Gary

 

I 100% agree with you on this!

 

Not meaning to be a d1ck here- but I'd like to see if you edit this opinion by the time your engine rebuild is complete and the results on the dyno. Literally- NOT trying to call you out... I just know the money involved and the frequent heartbreak.


On my end to answer the question I wouldn't even LOOK at a G35 again... I don't like the way the stock looks inside or out, the gutless performance, attrocious sound system. By the time I'd finished upgrading everything I disliked about it I could have bought the style, the power, and the sound stock. I'd rather mod the finishing touches on a car- the accents... not the whole freakin car.

Why, if I dislike it so much, did I buy it in the first place? Well... that's ANOTHER story.

 

Just out of curiosity, can you name the cars that you would prefer to have over the g35 in the same price range? I'm being honest here, as I would like to know what other cars to consider in the future. Thanks.

 

300whp is possible with a full N/A build.

 

Not saying it it isn't... I'm just saying that the "building" part isn't always so smooth- especially in terms of "long term reliability."

As for the "other car in the same price range" let me clarify that at this point the 20k value of the car in addition to the 50k I've put into upgrading it (so far) puts me in a 70k price range and at that point I'm sure I'd have loads of options. And, when I'm in the market again and have a chance to look at them all, I will answer your question if you still care.

 

welll...shiet. Find the right dyno, race fuel, and tuner . You can make any number you wish NA. In reality the $$$$ to achieve anything on this platform.

 

Main reason why I don't wanna change stock exhaust. Plenum spacer, Osiris, FI HFCs & HR Y-Pipe. Life is good.

 

I know, I'll be doing it in the most reliable way possible. I shouldn't have put 300whp, I'd be fine around ~270-280 with a smooth running engine. If I do any cams, they'll be mild. The short block would be professionally assembled by Dynosty or IPP, then on with ported heads, upgraded head gaskets(possibly), moly coated pistons, etc. From what I've read most people have trouble from a result of the cams more than anything.

Thoughts? Also, curious as to how many years the 50k was invested over in your car?

 

The first 10k evaporated in the first year... the rest was in the third. Go read my thread if you want to see the the 45 page story behind the third.

(Edit: To add to the answer just so there's some clarity as to where all the money went and to save you the 12 hours of reading through 45 pages... I explained this in an email recently and figure I can elaborate a bit here as well:


The 50k hasn't been what EVERY FI build costs... that's just what the car has cost overall. To break down the costs overall keep in mind I bought a lot of stuff brand new AND needed someone to install it for me. My first mods were exhaust / suspension / tune + Cobb and that ALONE was 6k by the time all was said and done. It was all the little things with the coilovers that really added up. 1400 for the exhaust and 400 for the HFC by the time they were shipped, 1200 for the coils, about 800-1000 for endlinks and upgraded bushings etc (and alignment and and and)... 600 for the cobb (and the tune was actually free for reasons I won't get into but legit). All the rest was labour.

Not to mention the roughly 2k I spent on body kits (K2 and Impul sides from Strafe- yes... Strafe... hence my angst towards them back in the day). The kits themselves weren't too expensive but getting them shipped, prepped, painted and mounted? Nightmare AND VERY expensive because the quality of the product was ASTONISHINGLY POOR.

Got the MD plenum 5/16ths spacer and the front end breather mods... high flow, Z tube... air filter... all brand new shipped from the US to Canada. Again, a lot of that stuff you can get at almost half price on the marketplace. Probably 600 there easy.

Then a few odds and ends... 2500 for a new double din stereo, AMP, some internal speaker upgrades (nothing about being all loud bass... just wanted good sound)... and all installed professionally.

Then transgo came in... it was 1000 by the time the cooler was installed, labour and the kit itself.

Then I wanted to go FI... got a basically unused but second hand turbo from a guy in here... that cost 6k by the time it was shipped and received... 8k for the botched install by Progressive Auto in Victoria, BC- so we're already at 14k JUST for the turbo and it hasn't even done 3 pulls before it bends the rod. Another 1000 or so to get on THAT dyno with upgraded fuel injectors etc- and then the 7 months or so for the rebuild. You probably know the rest of the story and it wasn't ALL in the FI track- I had a fully built trans put in there and the brake kit... that's about 10k EASY by the time you're done installing them. Cosie plenum came in and that was 1200 (used)- boost controller... 600 (installed), GT MAF 400, retune 500... Quaife LSD plus install... 2k approximately. New exhaust 1000 installed, retune 200, new custom downpipes installed and tuned 1000... oil changes almost 200 bucks each (Motul 300V)-

Custom bling reservoirs in the engine bay... 3-500 (by the time they actually worked)... Many issues, roughly 200 bucks a pop for broken stuff, leaks... wire tuck 300- nailed at the border for being an evil person trying to get things done cheaper in the states 10k ...

As for the rest of the question there Dark- you definitely sound like you've done some work in researching reliable shops (I'd go Dynosty in a second- not sure about IPP... I hear less about them). Not to jack the thread but a big part of my issue is that I depend on the shops and prices go up exponentially when that's the case. Unfortunately you're paying a premium price for stock performance... but once you're there you're definitely ready for a solid move to FI.

You know- I'd heard the same things about cams but then talking to guys who know what they're talking about they're left scratching their heads. That's just a matter of getting a decent tune. Unless you're talking about actually getting at them installed... Not a big deal if you're doing the engine anyway- but if you have any desire at all to do the heads- do it all at once and don't make the mistake I did!