215 max so far

 

That should be fine. I had a race bike that always ran around 220, no problems.

That's cool that the Uprev shows oil temp, not an option on OBDDash Pro.

 

So here's a random issue that bugs me and I need some help. First got my G about 6 weeks ago. I go fill up my gas tank and it stopped short (I looked up the gas tank right before and says it's 20 gallon). So I thought whatever I might have just not been as low as I thought I was on gas. So now 6 weeks later my gas light comes on and I think ok lemme fill it up with 20 gallons of gas. The pump stopped at 9 gallons so I keep putting gas and like at 9.5 gallons there's too much gas in the tank that it starts to come out when I pull the pump out. I go in my car it says it's right below the capacity. Now 10 mins later my gas gauge says I'm a quarter of a tank down. So overall is there Trick to fill these up? Cuz I'm just confused. Sorry for the rambling thanks in advance anyone

 

It is a common misconception that our main tank is 20gal (due to the manual saying 20gal capacity), when in fact it is 16gal with a 4gal reserve. After you've driven it for awhile with the light on, the reserve will kick in and your needle will go back up to 1/4 tank. I have done this personally, so I promise it's not just hearsay.

Now, that being said, there is a problem with these gas fill sensors as well as the guage sending unit that makes our cars read a little funny. While it is not always accurate, it is almost always consistent, so after you own your car for awhile and start noticing its patterns, you should be able to know how much gas you have when its at whatever given point in the guage range.

 

There's no easy trick to fill it up, so just fill it until you can't. Don't overfill til its leaking though.

The gauge is a common issue with our cars. I've never filled up mine completely, I usually just fill 3/4 of the tank. The fuel gauge is trippy, it will never really show the correct amount of gas most of the time.

Search the forum and you'll see the many threads about the fuel gauge issue.

 

I'm having a bad time trying to bleed my clutch. I read about it and prepared twice now but it's not even getting better at all.

What I've tried so far:

Positive pressurized fluid from the bleeder screw. No bubbles, 20 PSI of brake fluid. Cracked the bleeder, some fluid went in but not much. Repeated, pumped, etc. No luck.

Vaccuum at the bleeder screw. Used a strong electric vaccuum pump, at about 25in of vacuum. Cacked the bleeder, watched a little bit of fluid come out (had fluid in the reservoir for both positive and vacuum) noticed the reservoir drained a bit, tried the pedal, still springs to the floor and stays there.

Brand new slave cylinder, one piece stainless line from master to slave, bought the master used low mileage.

Where do I go next, adjust the clutch fork? It seems to be moving the master cylinder quite a bit but I may be wrong.

Is it possible to get a few turns in on the fork without removing the pedal? I did a 6 speed swap so it is a major PITA to remove the pedal.

New master cylinder?

I need a foolproof way to bleed this, I've spent so much time now trying. I should be using that time to piece together the little things. I'm so close...

Edit: also tried positive pressure at the reseroir but made a mess more than anything. Do you need to use any of these methods if you have a good MS and SS? First time I've had to bleed a clutch... it SUCKS.

 

i heard its a pita to bleed out clytches. you could order the wilwood master kit frim czp and make bleedimg much easier. i have one ive never installed

 

I didn't give up and I got it... Next problem.

I thought it was from the clutch not being bled...

Does the cotter pin that locks the shift linkage onto the transmission shift rod/linkage have to be a toleranced fit?

I can get my transmission to go into gear, but it seems like I'm going back and forth between third and fourth gear (engine not running yet, probably for the best until this is sorted out).

When I push the shifter forward into gear yeah it clicks into something, but it doesn't lock into place, it still can swivel around left and right but it is in a more forward position than in neutral. Same when I pull it into second, fourth, 6th, or reverse. It seems like back is fourth if I had to guess and forward is third.

I'm thinking that I need to replace the cotter pin I used with a tight fitting dowel pin to make the shifter function properly. Am I on the right track there?

Anything else I should check that would make this happen? I verified the clutch is releasing by holding the pedal down with a stick, turning the engine a half turn with breaker bar, and noting if the wheels spun. I can get it to go into neutral, third (I think), fourth(I think) but no reverse. One time a few weeks ago messing around in the cabin I got it to go into gear all of the way. It locked into place and I could not swivel it left or right. I can't recreate that. There is fluid in it, it was dripping out nice and golden colored as I was dropping in the engine/tranny. I plan to top it off before driving but I feel like it should go into gear smoothly with it being completely off the ground and the clutch bled fully.

Edit: Can I damage the synchronizers by trying to push on the shifter sort of roughly but fairly gently if the engine isn't running? Now I'm worried I am causing synchro damage messing with it...

 

Wow do u really have the hood propped using a piece of wood?

 

MDF... Gets it higher and more out of the way... Why the heck does that matter? Didn't want to take it off alone for the 4th time this year, I told myself the hood and front end are staying on from now on so I can get wiring and other little things finalized.

 

Anybody here to give this a thought or should I try my350?

Edit: Sourced the pin, hopefully that gets everything working properly. We'll see when shes running.

 

I have a 2004 g35 coupe with 70k miles on it. When I turn corners at any speed there is a thumping noise coming from both side( louder when I am turning right). The faster I go the louder the thump. I brought it to my friends mechanic and he lifted my car and told me my tires had flat spots and that's where the noise was coming from. I replaced the tires with BFG g-force comp-2 A/S tires. The noise has not gone away and seems to continue to get worse.

Before I got my tires changed I was told it was just the sound of my tires gripping the road, but I've driven and been in plenty of cars none of which made this thumping noise.

 

Compression rod bushings. Replace the lower control arm bushings while yet at it.

 

Thanks for the help having a friend who knows his way around cars tomorrow, I will definitely bring it up to him. I just bought a new set of tires because another friends mechanic suspected flat spots.

 

Hey guys I have a 2004 coupe and was thinking about getting the nismo catback exhaust. I know we need a spacer right? Where would I find the spacer size we need. also is there only a certain year catback exhaust that will fit my car. I'm pretty new to this so all info will help. Thanks a alot