Coupe Random Little Question Thread
#1292
11-28-2018 | 10:09 AM
Remove the plastic front half of the inner fender. It may provide enough room. Have you tried putting it on ramps and accessing from underneath. However your adjustments may not be visible with weight on the wheels. I see this as a tedious process of remove the wheel, adjust it, put the wheel back on lower the jack and measure your movement. The previous owner of my car installed lowering springs and rear camber arms but not front. I too will be joining you in this process soon....
#1293
11-28-2018 | 10:49 AM
Originally Posted by effimero89
I ran into the same issue. Using a spill free funnel is only part of the equation. In fact, it wouldn't work very much at all because it did absolutely nothing for me other than make sure I didn't re-introduce air in the system. I had to use the bleeder screw. Its a plastic screw just beside the battery. It's a plastic screw that is VERY easy to strip so when first loosening, make sure you do it very carefully. Here are the steps:
1. Set up the no spill funnel with fluid in it. Keep bleeder screw closed.
2. Start the car and blast your heat at 90 degrees. As you say it should be cold.
3. Break bleeder screw, you should see air bubbles. Break it just enough to let air escape and once the fluid starts to spill out CAREFULLY close again. Close just enough to stop any fluid from coming out.
4. Go back to the car and check if any or even some heat has returned.
Repeat 3-4 OVER AND OVER AND OVER again.
I'm not kidding, depending on the amount of air that is in your system, you will have to do this a bunch of times. That air bleeding "chamber" is very small so everytime you release any air its not very much. You will need to repeat this many times. Gradually you should start to notice the heat coming on. Just keep going Don't just do this process 10 times thinking it hasn't worked. Really do this A LOT to make sure you remove any and all doubt. I must have done mine 20 times. That's cracking the bleeder screw, letting air out, going back to car to check heat, revving car some, cracking bleeder screw again etc etc etc. Of course you will need to keep an eye on your no spill funnel but nothing there should really change at all just make sure it isn't too full (From over expanding) and too low.
This is very important you rule this out for a few reasons. For one it's probably the most likely due to how common this happens. Also, it's basically free to do. you only need one the funnels and some of your antifreeze. That's all the cost is. And if it is the problem, it will be solved by doing this. So you can either rule out a serious problem or solve the problem for next to nothing. if you need any additional help on this feel free to email me at effimero89@gmail.com
1. Set up the no spill funnel with fluid in it. Keep bleeder screw closed.
2. Start the car and blast your heat at 90 degrees. As you say it should be cold.
3. Break bleeder screw, you should see air bubbles. Break it just enough to let air escape and once the fluid starts to spill out CAREFULLY close again. Close just enough to stop any fluid from coming out.
4. Go back to the car and check if any or even some heat has returned.
Repeat 3-4 OVER AND OVER AND OVER again.
I'm not kidding, depending on the amount of air that is in your system, you will have to do this a bunch of times. That air bleeding "chamber" is very small so everytime you release any air its not very much. You will need to repeat this many times. Gradually you should start to notice the heat coming on. Just keep going Don't just do this process 10 times thinking it hasn't worked. Really do this A LOT to make sure you remove any and all doubt. I must have done mine 20 times. That's cracking the bleeder screw, letting air out, going back to car to check heat, revving car some, cracking bleeder screw again etc etc etc. Of course you will need to keep an eye on your no spill funnel but nothing there should really change at all just make sure it isn't too full (From over expanding) and too low.
This is very important you rule this out for a few reasons. For one it's probably the most likely due to how common this happens. Also, it's basically free to do. you only need one the funnels and some of your antifreeze. That's all the cost is. And if it is the problem, it will be solved by doing this. So you can either rule out a serious problem or solve the problem for next to nothing. if you need any additional help on this feel free to email me at effimero89@gmail.com
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
Any easy way to adjust SPC front camber arms without having to disconnect a bunch of śhit?
I dont have enough space to get a wrench on top of the adjustment nut at the top.
I dont have enough space to get a wrench on top of the adjustment nut at the top.
#1294
11-29-2018 | 04:11 AM
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 413
From: LA, Cali
Remove the plastic front half of the inner fender. It may provide enough room. Have you tried putting it on ramps and accessing from underneath. However your adjustments may not be visible with weight on the wheels. I see this as a tedious process of remove the wheel, adjust it, put the wheel back on lower the jack and measure your movement. The previous owner of my car installed lowering springs and rear camber arms but not front. I too will be joining you in this process soon....
I got a 1-1/16 angled wrench that I can get on the top nut, but it hits my fender if I try to turn it. Im gonna use my 20 ton press to increase the angle of the wrench so it will clear my fender. I'll let u borrow the wrench if it works
Maybe I should make a DIY.
#1295
11-29-2018 | 04:13 AM
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 3,007
Likes: 413
From: LA, Cali
#1296
01-16-2019 | 12:37 AM
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 78
Likes: 7
Thought I’d ask here but are the coupes supposed to have parking lights. Essentially turning the switch from off Into the next one over would essentially turn on the parking lights aka the turn signal bulb consistently? Or am I wrong? When I turn my switch in that spot all my lights come on. This is for a 03 coupe as I know the 06 and up headlights would have a DRL
#1297
01-16-2019 | 12:42 PM
Thought I’d ask here but are the coupes supposed to have parking lights. Essentially turning the switch from off Into the next one over would essentially turn on the parking lights aka the turn signal bulb consistently? Or am I wrong? When I turn my switch in that spot all my lights come on. This is for a 03 coupe as I know the 06 and up headlights would have a DRL
#1298
01-16-2019 | 05:47 PM
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 78
Likes: 7
The first click from OFF is AUTO, so if it's dark out, all lights will turn on. The next click is your parking lights, should be the icon that looks like two octopuses about to have a head-on collision. 03-05 headlights used the turn signal and an extra light on the side of the housing for the parking light position. 06-07 projectors only have a peanut bulb down in the fog light area for parking lights.
#1299
01-18-2019 | 09:15 AM
#1300
01-20-2019 | 11:03 AM
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
G35 Coupe
VDC, Slip, ABS, Brake & Battery l
I have a 2005 g35 coupe 6-speed manual and I have an issue, my battery and brake lights flashed I got the battery and alternator checked, the alternator wasn’t charging up the battery, got that switched out, car doesn’t die now so it’s all good. But now the lights still come on and also the VDC, Slip and ABS lights flicker while I’m driving and I cannot accelerate while they flicker, once they’re done flickering I can accelerate but my battery and brake lights still remain flashing.
Took car to the dealership, was told the codes they got back were for needing new rear tires. The tires are about 4 years old now but I’m not sure how that correlates with these lights flickering and losing acceleration.
Ive read a many of comments and threads about break fluid, break pads, camshaft sensors etc. I just want to know if anyone has a good idea of what I should really look into.
Took car to the dealership, was told the codes they got back were for needing new rear tires. The tires are about 4 years old now but I’m not sure how that correlates with these lights flickering and losing acceleration.
Ive read a many of comments and threads about break fluid, break pads, camshaft sensors etc. I just want to know if anyone has a good idea of what I should really look into.
#1301
01-20-2019 | 11:16 AM
I have a 2005 g35 coupe 6-speed manual and I have an issue, my battery and brake lights flashed I got the battery and alternator checked, the alternator wasn’t charging up the battery, got that switched out, car doesn’t die now so it’s all good. But now the lights still come on and also the VDC, Slip and ABS lights flicker while I’m driving and I cannot accelerate while they flicker, once they’re done flickering I can accelerate but my battery and brake lights still remain flashing.
Took car to the dealership, was told the codes they got back were for needing new rear tires. The tires are about 4 years old now but I’m not sure how that correlates with these lights flickering and losing acceleration.
Ive read a many of comments and threads about break fluid, break pads, camshaft sensors etc. I just want to know if anyone has a good idea of what I should really look into.
Took car to the dealership, was told the codes they got back were for needing new rear tires. The tires are about 4 years old now but I’m not sure how that correlates with these lights flickering and losing acceleration.
Ive read a many of comments and threads about break fluid, break pads, camshaft sensors etc. I just want to know if anyone has a good idea of what I should really look into.
#1302
01-20-2019 | 11:49 AM
I have a 2005 g35 coupe 6-speed manual and I have an issue, my battery and brake lights flashed I got the battery and alternator checked, the alternator wasn’t charging up the battery, got that switched out, car doesn’t die now so it’s all good. But now the lights still come on and also the VDC, Slip and ABS lights flicker while I’m driving and I cannot accelerate while they flicker, once they’re done flickering I can accelerate but my battery and brake lights still remain flashing.
Took car to the dealership, was told the codes they got back were for needing new rear tires. The tires are about 4 years old now but I’m not sure how that correlates with these lights flickering and losing acceleration.
Ive read a many of comments and threads about break fluid, break pads, camshaft sensors etc. I just want to know if anyone has a good idea of what I should really look into.
Took car to the dealership, was told the codes they got back were for needing new rear tires. The tires are about 4 years old now but I’m not sure how that correlates with these lights flickering and losing acceleration.
Ive read a many of comments and threads about break fluid, break pads, camshaft sensors etc. I just want to know if anyone has a good idea of what I should really look into.
That said, if you have all 3 lights, then most common cause is low brake fluid. Top it off, don't just assume it's ok if it's above the low line.
coupes have staggered tire sizes from the factory, also the first number is the width measurement, so this statement is incorrect.
#1303
01-20-2019 | 11:52 AM
If there's more than a 3% diameter difference between front and rear tires, that could happen since the car interprets the speed difference as spinning tires. You lose acceleration while the slip light is blinking because VDC cuts engine power.
That said, if you have all 3 lights, then most common cause is low brake fluid. Top it off, don't just assume it's ok if it's above the low line.
coupes have staggered tire sizes from the factory, also the first number is the width measurement, so this statement is incorrect.
That said, if you have all 3 lights, then most common cause is low brake fluid. Top it off, don't just assume it's ok if it's above the low line.
coupes have staggered tire sizes from the factory, also the first number is the width measurement, so this statement is incorrect.
#1304
01-20-2019 | 12:08 PM
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
G35 Coupe
#1305
01-20-2019 | 12:10 PM
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
G35 Coupe
If there's more than a 3% diameter difference between front and rear tires, that could happen since the car interprets the speed difference as spinning tires. You lose acceleration while the slip light is blinking because VDC cuts engine power.
That said, if you have all 3 lights, then most common cause is low brake fluid. Top it off, don't just assume it's ok if it's above the low line.
coupes have staggered tire sizes from the factory, also the first number is the width measurement, so this statement is incorrect.
That said, if you have all 3 lights, then most common cause is low brake fluid. Top it off, don't just assume it's ok if it's above the low line.
coupes have staggered tire sizes from the factory, also the first number is the width measurement, so this statement is incorrect.