G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

G35 Engine Cooling Temp a little hot...I think

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Old Dec 17, 2015 | 04:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by AhmadH
Bro look at my last post. The area between engine and headers I think is leaking and this leads to hot air near the engine. The gauge is in the middle but I know it's not normal temperature
Bro, you have an exhaust leak, it won't cause your car to overheat, which you're not even doing. The coolant temps you posted are in the normal range. The fans turn on low speed at 208 degrees, and high speed at 212 degrees. The thermostat opens at 177-182 degrees. So your car running at 188 is fine and normal. I'm not sure what you think is supposed to be normal. If it's too hot for you, try installing a Nismo low temp thermostat. Those open up at around 160 degrees.

Your intake air temps are a bit high because short ram intake is sucking in hot engine bay air and now apparently exhaust fumes.

Feel free to waste money on your cooling system instead of intake and exhaust issues. Fix your exhaust leak, then you can get back to drifting in 1st and 2nd and your exhaust won't sound louder up front anymore.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 07:22 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by LoSt180
Bro, you have an exhaust leak, it won't cause your car to overheat, which you're not even doing. The coolant temps you posted are in the normal range. The fans turn on low speed at 208 degrees, and high speed at 212 degrees. The thermostat opens at 177-182 degrees. So your car running at 188 is fine and normal. I'm not sure what you think is supposed to be normal. If it's too hot for you, try installing a Nismo low temp thermostat. Those open up at around 160 degrees.

Your intake air temps are a bit high because short ram intake is sucking in hot engine bay air and now apparently exhaust fumes.

Feel free to waste money on your cooling system instead of intake and exhaust issues. Fix your exhaust leak, then you can get back to drifting in 1st and 2nd and your exhaust won't sound louder up front anymore.
I got an issue with PA200 and PA203 replaced the sensors, cleared the codes, and they returned 50 miles later... I'm running short ram k&n, eBay headers, invidia test pipes, x02 catback custom x pipe non resonated. Any suggestions? I have a feeling it's my headers but my mechanic said headers seem fine. But all he did was spray carb cleaner on them without be able to reach all around it. Could he be wrong? Also my exhaust is not as loud in low rpm and my car pudders and idles at 500 while drop to 400 for a second while vibrating but then goes back up to 500 rpm. Any suggestions ??
 
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Gigi_G35
I got an issue with PA200 and PA203 replaced the sensors, cleared the codes, and they returned 50 miles later... I'm running short ram k&n, eBay headers, invidia test pipes, x02 catback custom x pipe non resonated. Any suggestions? I have a feeling it's my headers but my mechanic said headers seem fine. But all he did was spray carb cleaner on them without be able to reach all around it. Could he be wrong? Also my exhaust is not as loud in low rpm and my car pudders and idles at 500 while drop to 400 for a second while vibrating but then goes back up to 500 rpm. Any suggestions ??
Is the wiring on the front sensor damaged at all? Did you get your car tuned? It will probably run like crap with those mods if you haven't.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:06 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by partyman66
Is the wiring on the front sensor damaged at all? Did you get your car tuned? It will probably run like crap with those mods if you haven't.
No tune, my dynotuners won't get the UpRev until January, and I'll check on the sensor, I have bosch sensors in from autozone but I'm sure they shouldn't go out after 30 miles
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:08 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by partyman66
Is the wiring on the front sensor damaged at all? Did you get your car tuned? It will probably run like crap with those mods if you haven't.
Wait, what part of the wiring? Closer to header or wiring harness connecter?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:08 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Gigi_G35
No tune, my dynotuners won't get the UpRev until January, and I'll check on the sensor, I have bosch sensors in from autozone but I'm sure they shouldn't go out after 30 miles
They could be getting fouled if the engine is running Bill Gates rich.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:13 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by partyman66
They could be getting fouled if the engine is running Bill Gates rich.
I think one side is a bit rich and one side is lean. What you think causes that? Will plenum spacer help that problem, because I ordered one and it's on its way
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 01:28 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Gigi_G35
I think one side is a bit rich and one side is lean. What you think causes that? Will plenum spacer help that problem, because I ordered one and it's on its way
I honestly know nothing at all about how lean or rich the stock tune is or how far it can go in either direction when in closed loop in comparison to the the static (open loop) tune metrics. I would imagine that if your headers are a lot less restrictive and wider in diameter than stock, this would lead to the front oxygen sensors reporting a leaner-than-actual value which would result in a richer-than-ideal mixture being used. It could be doing weird things where it's super rich at some RPM/Load/or other conditions and lean in different conditions, and the the super rich areas could be dumping excess contaminants onto the sensors and fouling them.

What about oil burning? If your motor is burning a lot of oil, that could do it too.

Maybe pull the sensors and have a look at them to see if there is any visible buildup of oil on them.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2016 | 07:49 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Gigi_G35
No tune, my dynotuners won't get the UpRev until January, and I'll check on the sensor, I have bosch sensors in from autozone but I'm sure they shouldn't go out after 30 miles
That right there might be your problem. A lot of G's are picky about sensors and act up if OEM isn't used. The problem is you won't know until you replace them and they might not be the issue. Your choice, as much as it sucks.................
 
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Gigi_G35
No tune, my dynotuners won't get the UpRev until January, and I'll check on the sensor, I have bosch sensors in from autozone but I'm sure they shouldn't go out after 30 miles

Replace those with NTK O2 sensors. Can't remember where I read it, but Bosch wideband sensors don't play nice with our ECUs. NTK is the OEM manufacturer.

Also clear codes and self-learning data.

Since you have both codes, make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2018 | 07:57 PM
  #56  
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G35 2003 fan clutch and termostat

Originally Posted by AhmadH
Hello guys, if you can please help me. I have a G35 coupe 2003 with almost all NA mods (bolt ons). The problem is that the engine coolant temp is a hot I think like the guy before. There's no overheat (it's in the middle) but I have a digital gauge attached to the obd2 and it shows the temp reaching 96 degrees celcius (205 F) and when the fans start the degrees will go to 87 C (188 F). I changed the water pump, thermostat (stock), changed the radiator cap, cleaned the radiator, bleeded the cooling systerm and flushed it, almost did everything but it's still the same. I'm getting a Mishimoto thermostat because I know other thermostats are not good. No smoke from exhaust and no mixing of coolant and oil. Could it be the Uprev remap because it was done when I used to have the "PREVIOUS" racing mishimoto thermostat? Should I continue driving the car until it overheats? Coolant level is the same btw, No leaking???? :S Please help guys
Termostat and fan clutch was my problem 😁

 
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