G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

O2 sensor/test pipe rough idle?

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Old 10-11-2018, 08:14 PM
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O2 sensor/test pipe rough idle?

So I’ve installed 50mm Manzo test pipes to replace the stock rear cats and installed a full HKS high power dual exhaust kit obviously popped the cel light right away bought new O2 sensors and Megan racing spacers for the test pipe O2 sensor ports, ran beautifully for about 3 weeks then popped another O2 sensor related cel. Now I’m noticing a rougher idle when I’m parked or stationary. Obviously the car is running super lean and the ECU can’t get the F/A ratio right. My question is is that normal? My RPMs aren’t jumping or fluctuating. It just feels like maybe there is no backpressure? Am I stuck getting an Osiris tune to fix this issue or are there any other options for all the test pipe/O2 sensor related headaches besides going back to stock cats.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:20 PM
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What code are you throwing, there are 4 total O2 sensors.

Back pressure, or lack thereof, is not a problem. There is plenty of flow across the upstream sensors and those are the ones that determine your actual fuel ratio, the downstream sensors measure catalytic efficiency and can be tricked into not throwing a code usually with a set of non-foulers, sometimes two sets (screw them together) is needed. A downstream O2 sensor code will not affect idle, an upstream sensor can potentially blow up your motor but you typically hear the pinging unless your stereo is cranked up or something.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:21 PM
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Also, what is your average short term fuel trim and what makes you think it's obviously leaned out? Did you pull plugs and notice discoloration?
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
What code are you throwing, there are 4 total O2 sensors.

Back pressure, or lack thereof, is not a problem. There is plenty of flow across the upstream sensors and those are the ones that determine your actual fuel ratio, the downstream sensors measure catalytic efficiency and can be tricked into not throwing a code usually with a set of non-foulers, sometimes two sets (screw them together) is needed. A downstream O2 sensor code will not affect idle, an upstream sensor can potentially blow up your motor but you typically hear the pinging unless your stereo is cranked up or something.
It is the P0132 high bank 1 senor 1 code. So it’s upstream but there is no pinging, no change in engine performance or weird discrepancies other than a slightly noticble change in stationary idle. A bit rougher with little bursts. It feels like my RPMs should be fluctuating but they don’t.
 
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Also, what is your average short term fuel trim and what makes you think it's obviously leaned out? Did you pull plugs and notice discoloration?
Not sure what the average short term fuel trim is or how to check that. It’s leaned out because I can smell the excess fuel not getting burned every time I start the car. Which makes sense considering the specific mods I have on it. I haven’t pulled plugs or the MAF yet.
 
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:05 AM
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I would start by getting an OBD2 scanner plugged in to check both upstream sensors for any cycling problems, make sure it's a nice transition from high to low, chances are you just have an O2 sensor failing but you should also check for any intake or exhaust leaks (anything past the cats won't throw a code). A good OBD2 sensor will also have the capability to test bank1 and 2 short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim.

If you have an Android based phone you can use a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter (I use one by BafX) and the app Torque Pro, I know that combo works great on the G and has logging functions so you can also go for a drive and log data which can be helpful for some troubleshooting issues.
 
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
I would start by getting an OBD2 scanner plugged in to check both upstream sensors for any cycling problems, make sure it's a nice transition from high to low, chances are you just have an O2 sensor failing but you should also check for any intake or exhaust leaks (anything past the cats won't throw a code). A good OBD2 sensor will also have the capability to test bank1 and 2 short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim.

If you have an Android based phone you can use a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter (I use one by BafX) and the app Torque Pro, I know that combo works great on the G and has logging functions so you can also go for a drive and log data which can be helpful for some troubleshooting issues.
Thanks for the advice. Would a hand torqued(probably not spec) connect from the test pipes to where they meet the exhaust manifold cause an exhaust leak you think ?
 
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:59 PM
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Probably not if it was gasketed.
 
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Probably not if it was gasketed.
which they all are, at every connection point
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Also, what is your average short term fuel trim and what makes you think it's obviously leaned out? Did you pull plugs and notice discoloration?
Hi Cleric, on mines my FT's are always in the negatives they range from -2 all the way to -10 or -15 which is the opposite mine's is ridiculously rich for whatever reason.
Im getting a p0420 and a p1273 with test pipes also.

I've spaced my o2s, fresh oil, new oem plugs have you seen this before?
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:14 AM
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P0420 is just the catalyst efficiency code you can try using a set of non-foulers (or two sets screwed together if that doesn't work) and usually get rid of that code. P1273 is the lean code for the upstream O2 sensor so what's LIKELY happening is the ECM recognizes a lean problem then goes back into failsafe mode (rich mode, hence the negative fuel trim) to prevent engine damage. I would monitor O2 sensor data while the engine is warming up to see if the O2 sensors are actually fluctuating properly, if they're not cycling then you might just have a bad O2 sensor or you may simply need an uprev tune. How many miles are on your upstream O2 sensors? They only last about 80-100k before they start failing and sending bad data or delayed data back to the ECM.

Also, just to verify you are NOT installing those non-fouler spacers on the upstream O2 sensors correct? Those are designed ONLY to be used on the downstream O2 sensors.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
P0420 is just the catalyst efficiency code you can try using a set of non-foulers (or two sets screwed together if that doesn't work) and usually get rid of that code. P1273 is the lean code for the upstream O2 sensor so what's LIKELY happening is the ECM recognizes a lean problem then goes back into failsafe mode (rich mode, hence the negative fuel trim) to prevent engine damage. I would monitor O2 sensor data while the engine is warming up to see if the O2 sensors are actually fluctuating properly, if they're not cycling then you might just have a bad O2 sensor or you may simply need an uprev tune. How many miles are on your upstream O2 sensors? They only last about 80-100k before they start failing and sending bad data or delayed data back to the ECM.

Also, just to verify you are NOT installing those non-fouler spacers on the upstream O2 sensors correct? Those are designed ONLY to be used on the downstream O2 sensors.
Spacers are on the down streams.

They seem to fluctuate however they appear to be the original ones. According to the TSB, it calls for new sensor and re calibration at the dealer.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 08:06 PM
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UPDATE: reset ECU by negative battery disconnection. Cleared CEL, drove 100 miles no CEL. Still idles heavy when stationary. Assuming it’s just the new test pipes and exhaust without a tune causing the car to act a bit wonky. No drivability issues. Tune is up next.
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 08:48 PM
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Do the pedal dance method to reset the idle air, make sure the engine and transmission are up to temp, ALL power consumers are turned OFF including heated seats, air conditioning (turn the entire panel off), stereo, wipers, headlights, window defrosters, etc. Optionally if you have a bluetooth OBD2 adapter you can use the Android app Nissan Datascan 2 to simply push a button to reset the idle air calibration.

If it doesn't work exactly as shown then the reset didn't work, there is a power sensing algorithm in the ECU and if it detects anything is turned on (or if the transmission isn't up to temp) it won't work, if the engine is not up to temp you will end up with a REALLY screwed up idle.

http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html
 
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Do the pedal dance method to reset the idle air, make sure the engine and transmission are up to temp, ALL power consumers are turned OFF including heated seats, air conditioning (turn the entire panel off), stereo, wipers, headlights, window defrosters, etc. Optionally if you have a bluetooth OBD2 adapter you can use the Android app Nissan Datascan 2 to simply push a button to reset the idle air calibration.

If it doesn't work exactly as shown then the reset didn't work, there is a power sensing algorithm in the ECU and if it detects anything is turned on (or if the transmission isn't up to temp) it won't work, if the engine is not up to temp you will end up with a REALLY screwed up idle.

http://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350...procedure.html
dudeeee thank you for this solid *** advice! Will def do this as soon as I get back home!
 


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